Karl Lagerfeld for Net-A-Porter

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I loves me some Karl Lagerfeld. His “The Day Before,” for Fendi on Sundance, is THE best.  When his head seamstress at Fendi breathlessly recounts her first meeting with him and says, “I am his disciple.”  So am I, I said aloud, mesmerized by his Karlness.

He designs for Chanel and Fendi, two of the most luxurious labels, plus his own line.  That’s how many collection each year, for each line?  Everything he does is at such a high level, and to do that for three brands boggles the mind.

So, I am a little puzzled by the first looks released by Net-A-Porter for his “lower” priced line for them, debuting Jan. 25.  This is NOT a blog that snipes or bashes people.  But I can question and maybe disagree, can’t I?

These proportions throw me. Baggy 3/4 sleeve top (baseball style?) with short pleated skirt? Volume + volume? Those two items look a little too frumpy for detachable collar and leather fingerless gloves. Like an S & M-y cheerleader?

Sharkskin double-breast jacket with houndstooth printed pants that unzip? Is it the styling that's throwing me? It's WAY too much.

There are more, but I’m not going to beat a dead horse.  I’ll just say more detachable collars and fingerless gloves.  I know it’s a play on how Karl dresses himself, but I think it could’ve been… How should I say it?  A little more exquisite, a little less “Project Runway.”

Like I said, I loves me some Karl, so I’m a bit deflated that this isn’t rockin’ my world.  I’m not going to say the Kaiser has no clothes.  He does.  I just won’t be buying them.  And if you disagree with me, by all means pounce on http://www.net-a-porter.com on Jan. 25th.

Charlotte Rampling

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She inspires everyone from photographers, fashion designers to everyday women who want to exude that effortless sensuality.  Her exotic eyes, tall slim frame, and innate intelligence cast a spell.

Angelina Maccarone’s, “Charlotte Rampling: The Look,” is a doc about the graceful, captivating, “icon of desire” (Maccarone’s words.)  Interviews with friends like Jurgen Teller and Peter Lindbergh give us a peek into her world.

Now playing in LA at Laemmle’s Music Hall.

http://www.kinolorber.com/film.php?id=1227

2011 Award Season is under way

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I’m SO behind in reading my papers.  But I’d be remiss for not mentioning Dec. 18th, LA Times Image Section.  Lots of great articles on this year’s crop of exciting costumes.

On David Fincher’s “Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.”

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-dragon-tattoo-20111218,0,7503394.story

On the surge in 20’s inspirations, “The Artist,” and Baz Luhrmann’s “The Great Gatsby.”

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-artist-20111218,0,6082131.story

Arianne Phillips talks about “W.E.” and the work remaking Wallis Simpson’s stunning wardrobe.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-phillips-20111218,0,7127321.story

Costume Design as part of building a character.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-honorable-20111218,0,6699626.story

Menswear from this season’s films.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-mens-styles-20111218,0,7403329.story

This just illustrates how little time I have to actually go see movies!!!  Oy.  You single childless people go frolic carefree into the night and see them for me!

Charles and Ray Eames: The Architect and the Painter

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PBS’s American Masters documentary series paints a vivid portrait of the life and marriage of this prodigious and innovative couple who brought design and a modern aesthetic to the masses in 50’s and 60’s America.  Directed by Jason Cohn and Bill Jersey.

I recorded it and just watched it, and was surprised at how candid it was in delving into their marital troubles and Charles’ tendency to take credit.

If you missed it, see if PBS will run it again, and set your DVRs.

http://www.kpbs.org/news/2011/dec/14/american-masters-charles-ray-eames-architect-and-p/

Fashionchalkboard

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Hope your Christmas shopping is zipped up and put to bed.  If not, get crackin’ McCrakin’, Christmas is Sunday.

My shopping is finally done and I’m using my spare minutes to sharpen up my Illustrator and Photoshop skills (for fashion design.)  My FIDM alumni group alerted me to this great site started by a fellow FIDM alum, Ludmila Adams, www.fashionchalkboard.com.  Since I was staying at home taking care of my little guy for the first few years, my skills dulled so I needed to sharpen them, but lack of babysitters, time, and $$ prevented me from taking a course at a community college, or other school.  This was perfect.  I could do it when I had time, at home, and wasn’t too pricey.

A great present for yourself!

Tom Ford, Visionaries

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Well I finally got around to watching Visionaries: Tom Ford, on OWN.  I missed it the first time around, set my DVR, then watched the whole season, to finally get to this one.  And it did not disappoint.  I was scared that this Oprah show would be a little too touchy-feely, but the format is documentary style and the subject speaks for him or herself about their background and their creative process.  And we get to watch them in the thick of creating.  Even ones I didn’t think I’d get into (Tyler Perry), I found pretty inspiring.

Tom speaks candidly about his quitting Gucci and YSL, and his process.  It’s such a treat to watch him do fittings and adjust the look of things.  He also directs films now (a true fashioneaste!) and hearing him talk about writing and directing his first film was interesting.  Don’t you think he should do an update (I hate the term reboot.  A reboot is just a restart, doing the same thing) of “American Gigolo?”  Wouldn’t that be just heavenly?  Great clothes and tons of sex.

Catch it if you can.

Stone Roses reunion

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Really?  It can’t be.  It is?  Then I exploded into a million bits of confetti.  I wasn’t obsessed with Ian Brown, but I did think he was quite cute.  He said he wanted to be adored and he was!  The best hair of the 90’s.  I loved their sound, 60’s mod through an acid/ecstasy-laced Madchester filter.  Jon Squire’s swirling guitar, part funk, part rave, all joy of being in your 20’s, drunk, dancing and staying out late.  I loved their look, modish haircuts + soccer hooligan swagger.

Wasn't he soooo cute?

Those anoraks, I think, paved the way for the Gallagher bros look, don’t you think?  If they didn’t get trapped in legal quicksand, Nirvana would’ve never happened.  They’d be some little post-punk band in Seattle doing their thing, still great but not blowin’ up, the biggest band of the decade great.  Britpop filled the void, with Blur and Oasis taking their place. Nothing against them, but their sound wasn’t as original, or genre bending as the Stone Roses.

Don't know when this was taken. But long shag looks good on him too.

Present day. You can tell they sure did party like rock stars.

Anyway, the tickets are as hard to come by as a Willy Wonka Golden Ticket, so good luck music fans.

P.S. It’s been said that David Beckham begged the band to get back together, and the boys being rabid Manchester United fans, acquiesced.  So two thanks to Becks, 1) For bringing the MLS cup to LA, 2) for reuniting the Stone Roses.  That guy really has the touch.

Garden inspiration

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Walking around the botanical gardens, something we can still do in southern California, made me think of jewelry.

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Wouldn’t these make great earrings or pendants? Scaled down a bit, in gold or platinum, maybe an art nouveau feel? Maybe a charm for a handbag?

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I thought this would make a lovely brooch or something for hair like a clip, barrette, or pin.

In the Mood for Love

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Hong Kong, 1962. Mr. Chow, Tony Leung Chiu Wai, and Mrs. Chan, Maggie Cheung are neighbors in a noisy Hong Kong apartment building.  Their spouses work late, or are out of town a lot so naturally they start spending time with each other.  It becomes painfully obvious to them that their spouses are having an affair.  Saddened, but self-righteous, they vow not to be like their cheatin’ spouses.  They never consummate their love for each other, just luxuriate in the sexual tension.

I think this is Wong Kar-Wai‘s best film.  What can I say?  I’m a sucker for a plot.  With music I love a great hook and melody, too.  I guess I’m a traditionalist.  The story moves slowly, deliberately, to its unrequited end.

It’s beautifully, cleverly shot by oft-imitated, hugely influential Christopher Doyle (who also had a mad crush on Maggie Cheung.)  Atmospheric without being indulgent.  OK maybe a few cliches like, slow mo shots of the rain, and billowing smoke.  But with him behind the camera, it feels fresh.  Many shots from behind objects, around corners, through windows, over shoulders, as if we’re spying on them.  Gives their relationship an illicit feel.

But let’s talk about the clothes!  My God watching Maggie Cheung makes me wanna diet.  She’s so tall and slim, everything looks divine on her.  And let’s not leave out Tong Leung.  First of all, what a handsome guy.  And second of all, putting him in the 60’s suits and ties really does it for me.  This was the “Mad Men” look more than a decade before “Mad Men” with a dash of Hong Kong flavor.

Love the print on this cheongsam.

See? Put that cupcake down if you ever want to look this thin.

The first furtive glance between them.

Great vintage tie.

I'm not sure if this is a knit or woven pattern, but I love it. Sort of a vertical Missoni. Notice the front of the collar is black.

Notice the back of the collar flows into the bodice. They matched it to the back like wallpaper.

Is she not the chicest secretary ever?

Couldn't get a good shot of his tie. But you get the idea.

Again, not sure if this is a knit or woven pattern. I think probably a woven, since they're usually made from wovens. In any case, I love the pattern.

Here's a longer shot.

Lime green! So fresh.

Another great tie.

Even her older boss has a great tie. Aren't these the best widths? Not too skinny, not too fat.

First of all, I love stripes, so this had me at first look. Secondly, it's sheer. Something different.

They cross paths, avert their eyes. Violins sing longingly in the background.  Nat King Cole croons in Spanish, gives it a European feel.  The music sounds romantic, sultry when they’re together, plaintive and melancholy when only one of them is seen.  The instrumental music also reminds me of the music in “Room with a View” when Lucy, Charlotte and Ms. Lavish walk around Florence.  Even the stuccoed buildings look vaguely Italian.

I love men in a light grey suit, don't you? With a pocket square, no less.

Together, alone.

She's helping him write a martial arts serial. She gets stuck inside his apartment while the noisy neighbors play mah jong in the common area. She dare not leave or everyone will know what they're (not) up to.

They role play. He pretends to be her husband, she "confronts" him about his mistress. Another great tie.

Beautiful, graphic, floral.

Even better with the red coat.

Just a great shot.

I love that this is a solid, but with a bit of floral detail at the edge. Unexpected and lovely.

This to me is the shot that sums up the movie. They are waiting out the storm in their marriages, taking comfort with each other. She can't even bring herself to use his umbrella (accepting him) for fear of others gossiping (submissive to society's rules.)

A classic!  Costume design by William Chang.  This dude also edited it and did the production design (unless there are three different William Changs working on this.)  That explains the consistency of the look of the film.  But no one thinks about William Chang, only how wonderful this Wong Kar Wai film is.

Vogue now online: all 120 years

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If you’ve got a spare $1,575 you can subscribe to the Vogue archives.  And that’s a yearly price.  Yes, you will have to renew.  Subscribers might get a price break, but with limited access.  What’s the point of that?  Anyways, every page, ads included, were scanned for you my dears.  Everything is indexed and cataloged so you can go right to the good stuff.

I’m a FIDM Alum, so I had access to their physical Vogue collection, but now I could just go online instead of trudging downtown.  It’s VERY tempting!  It’s nice flipping through pages and stumbling across something fantastic that you wouldn’t have seen otherwise, but it does save time to be able to get, say, all Audrey Hepburn images like that (snap!)

So graphic, but ladylike.

Love that hat! Love the way the feathers from her hat and the feathers from the bird languidly fall.

The colors! Orange, pink, magenta and black works here for some reason.

I will have to think about it…