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Category Archives: 1950’s

L’Avventura

13 Thursday Sep 2012

Posted by Angie in 1950's, Men, Women

≈ 2 Comments

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Gabriele Ferzetti, L'Avventura, Lea Massari, Michelangelo Antonioni, Monica Vitti, post war Italy

Michelangelo Antonioni’s, “L’Avventura,” was booed at it’s first screening at Cannes, in 1959. Such is the reaction to all things new and groundbreaking. The second screening fared much better, it was hailed as a genius work of art.

Anna, her boyfriend, Sandro, and best friend Claudia, go for a lovely boat ride one summer. Anna goes missing, and the boating party tries in vain to find her. Sandro and Claudia bond over the incident and start romantically seeing each other. Anna is never found, which begs the question, what happened to her? Which Antonioni never answers. It’s an art film. No tidy endings, people. It’s more like a meditation on love, life, and the transitory nature of it.

Anna’s father tells her Sandro will never marry her. Don’t you love his polka dot tie? Lea Massari and Renzo Ricci.

Anna’s simple dress is perfect for Spring/Summer. I love that there’s two ties at the waist. Monica Vitti and Lea Massari.

Anna fears losing Sandro, but simultaneously feels numb in her surroundings. This might reflect an Italian post-war sensibility. Intense feelings towards comforting emotions like love, but a numb psyche as a result of the recent WWII horrors, and unable to fully enjoy emotions like love.

Anna, Sandro, and Claudia embark on a short cruise.

l'avventura Monica Vitti

Love the deep V back of Claudia’s, (Monica Vitti) swimsuit.

l' avventura Italian fisherman's sweater

Love this Italian fisherman’s sweater.

l'avventura Lea Massari Gabriele Ferzetti

Anna has misgivings about getting married to Sandro. She wants him but at the same time, would be fine without him. She’s cornfused. This is the last we see of her.

Anna goes missing. Claudia, Sandro, and their friend Corrado stay on the island to continue searching for her. Claudia and Sandro develop an attraction to each other.

L'avventura Esmeralda Ruspoli Leilo Luttazzi Dominique Blanchar

This could be a Prada ad. Old Italian money + whimsy.

l'avventura 10

Antonioni is a master at framing. If I were a painter or photographer/DP, I’d be totally inspired by him.

l' avventura men's scarves

A study in Italian working-class men’s scarves and layering.

l' avventura Monica Vitti

Monica Vitti in repose. I love her shoes and that her sweater is not super fitted, but more blouse-like.

l' avventura Monica Vitti

It looks even better with a great handbag.

l' avventura Monica Vitti

Claudia, Monica Vitti, feels guilt for falling for Sandro. The ocean in the background remind you of Anna’s disappearance.

l' avventura

Antonioni goes out of his way to inject this little scene. This girl, Gloria Perkins, causes a near riot by walking around the city with a ripped side seam, exposing her undies and garter. The reporter Sandro sought out, explains it’s all a ruse to get some attention for herself and maybe a sucker willing to shell out big bucks to “date” her. Is Antonioni commenting on modern love being merely a transaction?

l'avventura monica vitti

I like that the ruffles are arranged on the chair framing Monica. It makes the frame more dynamic.

L'avventura Monica Vitti Esmeralda Ruspoli

Claudia dons one of Patrizia’s wigs, and looks like a certain missing girl.

L'avventura Monica Vitti

Polka dot suit + scarf. Serious, but fun.

L'avventura Monica Vitti

Interesting framing. Claudia’s double layered dress is too. Don’t see it being much for the masses though.

L'avventura Monica Vitti Gabriele Ferzetti

The last shot captures the theme of loneliness in love. Claudia fell in love with Sandro, then felt tremendous guilt for not wanting to find Anna. Sandro thinks he loves Claudia, but then gives in to his lust and hooks up with Gloria. Romantic love is difficult and complex and never is the answer to all of life’s problems. Claudia and Sandro are together but surrounded by emptiness.

Empty, desolate landscapes in natural and urban settings underscore the rudderless and lonely feelings of modern life.

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The Night Porter

18 Wednesday Apr 2012

Posted by Angie in 1940's, 1950's

≈ 1 Comment

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Charlotte Rampling, Dirk Bogarde, Liliani Cavani, sadomasochim, Stockholm Syndrome

With the runaway success, and unstoppable buzz of 50 Shades of Grey, I rented “The Night Porter” to revisit another sadomasochistic romance. Liliani Cavani’s 1974 film is very controversial, even today.

It’s set in 1957 Vienna where Max, a hotel night porter, and Lucia, a conductor’s wife, inadvertently meet again for the first time since WWII. Back then he was an SS officer and she was a teenager. He plucked her out of a crowd of prisoners and began to torture/rape her. She developed feelings for him, maybe what you’d classify as Stockholm Syndrome, and didn’t hesitate to resume their sadomasochistic relationship.

Lucia stumbles across Max.

Max works at night. He says he feels his shame in the light. Lucia means light. She’s the only thing that brings him joy. Their fortunes have reversed after the war. Max, Dirk Bogarde, was a SS officer, now a lowly hotel clerk, in the middle of his war crimes trial. He has already killed one witness who could’ve testified against him. Lucia, Charlotte Rampling, is now a posh conductor’s wife. She is the only other witness to his crimes. He could easily kill her, but his feelings get the better of him.

Lucia, in a child-like dress chosen for her by Max, in a flashback during her time in the concentration camp.

She is now married to a orchestra conductor. Beautiful, fitted camel hair coat, upturned collar, pearls, very befitting her new station in life.

At one point Max chains Lucia in his room so his peers (other former SS officers) can’t take her away when he’s at work. One of them, Hans, confronts Lucia and tells her that she should cooperate with them so they can help Max. She doesn’t trust him and says she’s chained because Max doesn’t want them to take her. He laughs and says that a chain wouldn’t stop them if they wanted to. This is true. The real chain keeping them together is their shared sickness, and longing for the past.

In this infamous flashback scene, Lucia serenades the officers with Marlene Dietrich's "Wenn Ich Mir Was Wünschen Dürfte." The hat, gloves, mens pants and suspenders worn with Rampling overt sexuality and confidence continue to inspire designers.

The masked "ball" mirrors their present situation where these officers are now trying to hide from their past, and pass themselves off as respectable gentlemen.

Max presents Lucia with the head of another prisoner who was bullying her. She merely asked Max to have the man transferred, but Max, having a flair for the dramatic (and violent) immediately thought of Salome and thought this would be an appropriate token of his affection for her. Thus continuing her trauma and guilt cycle.

Max and Lucia’s relationship puts his peers in danger. They just want to put the past behind them and live quiet respectable lives. Lucia knows them all from the camps and could testify against all of them, destroying everything they so carefully cobbled together. Max and Lucia want to stay together, living in the past, but the present day world will not allow it. Time marches on in the present, you cannot live in the past.

Klaus, the monocled one, is the ringleader in this motley crew, and his clothes vaguely imply his SS past. Black leather trench, said monocle, and hat.

Lucia was the submissive one before, but now she seems to be in charge. She's the one that initiated their affair. She has the power. She could easily go to the police and turn Max in, but she doesn't. That's shown here by Max kneeling behind her in a submissive pose, she's holding a pipe, something very phallic.

Max and Lucia say they want others to leave them alone so they can live in peace. Modern Germans are constantly reminded of their fascist past in pop culture and in politics. They are only too aware of doing anything that can be remotely viewed as being xenophobic or anti-Semitic. They will never be rid of, of “left alone” in this regard. Jews, in Israel and the world over use the horrors of WWII, and a history of persecution to inform their politics. Endless films, television shows depict their victimization and atrocities suffered at the hands of the Nazis. One of their slogans is “Never Forget.” Therefore they will be linked forever in the world’s consciousness.

After starving for days in his apartment, Max realizes he will never escape his peers. He dresses Lucia up in the same child-like dress from the beginning. Lucia doesn't say a word and follows along, knowing what will come. The bridge is their last walk on earth. In the pale morning light, they pass from the land of the living to the dead. Bert, his friend, has followed them and shoots them down.

Charlotte Rampling is her usual feline self, aloof with an undercurrent of carnal electricity. Dirk Bogarde… What can I say? If Peter O’Toole and Peter Lorre had a child it would be Dirk. Smug, English, with a thinly veiled, vile personality underneath. I love it. He’s an acquired taste.

Many critics at the time, were disgusted and appalled by Cavani’s use of concentration camp prisoners as a backdrop for titillation. Some who actually liked the film, thought the it was an essay on post-war European relations. Me? It definitely has problems. It’s not exactly rooted in reality, and Lucia’s character isn’t really fleshed out (no pun intended). I think it represents the inextricable relationship between Jews, Germany, and its shameful Nazi past. Framing it as a sadomasochistic relationship is interesting, albeit shocking and appalling.

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Hollywood and the Ivy Look

12 Thursday Jan 2012

Posted by Angie in 1950's, 1960's, Books, Men

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Anthony Perkins, Hollywood and the Ivy Look, Paul Newman, Steve McQueen

Not to be confused with Blue Ivy, mini Beyonce.

This is a new book from Reel Art that tracks the satorial influence of preppies on hipsters from 1956 to 1965.

Anthony Perkins. Classic clothes always look good.

So strange to think of McQueen's style as preppie, but i guess it was in this decade. He's still the man.

Paul Newman was really fine, wasn't he?

http://www.reelartpress.com/catalog/edition/43/hollywood-and-the-ivy-look

 

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2011 Award Season is under way

26 Monday Dec 2011

Posted by Angie in 1910's, 1920's, 1930's, 1940's, 1950's, 1960's, 1970's, 1990's, Men, stuff to see, Women

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Arianne Phillips, David Fincher, Los Angeles Times

I’m SO behind in reading my papers.  But I’d be remiss for not mentioning Dec. 18th, LA Times Image Section.  Lots of great articles on this year’s crop of exciting costumes.

On David Fincher’s “Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.”

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-dragon-tattoo-20111218,0,7503394.story

On the surge in 20’s inspirations, “The Artist,” and Baz Luhrmann’s “The Great Gatsby.”

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-artist-20111218,0,6082131.story

Arianne Phillips talks about “W.E.” and the work remaking Wallis Simpson’s stunning wardrobe.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-phillips-20111218,0,7127321.story

Costume Design as part of building a character.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-honorable-20111218,0,6699626.story

Menswear from this season’s films.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-mens-styles-20111218,0,7403329.story

This just illustrates how little time I have to actually go see movies!!!  Oy.  You single childless people go frolic carefree into the night and see them for me!

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Vivian Maier

16 Wednesday Nov 2011

Posted by Angie in 1950's, 1960's, 1970's, Books, stuff to see

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John Maloof, Storage Wars, Vivian Maier

Vivian Maier (February 1, 1926 – April 21, 2009) was a nanny by trade, but a documentarian by heart.  On her downtime she’d roam the streets photographing a myriad of people and things.  Children, elderly, the discarded whether it be objects or people.

You notice her winking wit, sly humor, graphic sensibilities right away.  This was the 50’s and 60’s, the great boom time in post-war America, but she seems more interested in the ones that were being ignored by the wave of optimism and upward mobility.

Her story is sad, but compelling.  She never married, didn’t have many close friends, but loved the children she cared for as if they were her own.  Three of the children ended up helping her out financially when she became destitute and alone in her old age.  She hoarded rolls and rolls of undeveloped film and put them in storage.  When she passed away, her storage lockers went up for auction and that’s how John Maloof, realtor and amateur historian, found her.  He has since been her biggest cheerleader, staging exhibitions, and getting a book of her work published, “Vivian Maier: Street Photographer.”

Looks like it could've been taken by any street style blogger, yesterday. Timeless. New York, 1954.

Looks like a movie set. January 9, 1957, Florida.

Her charges said she was like Mary Poppins, and in this self portrait she really looks the part with the hat, bicycle and long overcoat. She's inspiring me to write a character based on her. 1959.

You can tell how shy she was by her self-portraits. She likes seeing herself as tiny reflections, or just her shadows. She never looks made up, always with a plain, serious, somewhat self-conscious expression. 1953.

The great irony is that all this fame, money, and acclaim showering her is posthumous, and all the attention might have made her uncomfortable.  But at least she gets the adoration, and respect for her life long dedication to her art.

If you’re in the Brooklyn area on Friday, November 18, there will be a slideshow presentation and Q&A with John Maloof at the powerHouse Arena.

http://www.vivianmaier.com/

In related news, “treasure found in a storage unit auction…”

http://news.yahoo.com/man-reported-500-000-worth-treasure-storage-unit-200501811.html

Makes you wanna go on “Storage Wars.”  Who knows you might find some gold, or the next Vivian Maier.

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FAVES, no particular order

Directed by James Ivory, Costume Design Jenny Beavan, 1985

Directed by Jack Clayton, Costume Design Theoni V. Aldredge, 1974

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Direct by Arthur Penn, Costume Design Theadora Van Runkle, 1967

Directed by Iain Softley, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1997

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