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The Fashionéaste

~ For lovers of fashion in film

The Fashionéaste

Category Archives: 1960’s

Contempt

17 Tuesday Jul 2012

Posted by Angie in 1960's, Men, Women

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Brigitte Bardot, Contempt, Jack Palance, Jean-Luc Godard, Michel Piccoli

Jean-Luc Godard’s, “Contempt,” 1963, features the ever-gorgeous Brigitte Bardot and Michel Piccoli, as Camille and Paul Javal.  Paul is rewriting a film adaptation of Homer’s, The Odyssey, for producer Jeremy Prokosch, Jack Palance, and directed by none other than Fritz Lang (playing himself).  Paul sells out his writer’s integrity by trying to make it more commercial and his wife’s affection by basically handing her to Prokosch.

Ok, this has nothing to do with fashion, but isn’t Fritz’s monocle gangsta? Fritz Lang.

Here’s Paul saying, “No, you ride with him, I’ll take a cab.”  You can figure out the rest. Love Brigitte’s super wide headband. Brigitte Bardot, Michel Piccoli, and Jack Palance in the car.

Camille practices being a seductress. Playful or is it Godard’s comment on how easily we are seduced by her? Brigitte Bardot.

Pouty, sexy Brigitte Bardot.

A cute shot of her in a hat. Brigitte Bardot.

Here she is looking soooo different in a black wig. Brigitte Bardot.

On a trip to Capri Paul tells Camille to go on without him, again. Really? It’s sun-dappled Capri, your wife looks like Brigitte Bardot and you’re telling her to go have fun with another guy?

I love the full skirt with the pink pullover, demure, but on her, super sexy. Brigitte Bardot.

I’ve read that Bardot’s hair is the most referenced hair by uber hair stylists. The long bangs (fringe), volume on top, long, thick, somewhat bedroom tousled, is pretty much seen every season and in countless editorial shoots.

Brigitte Bardot.

Camille leaves Paul for Prokosch (Jack Palance?) Only in the movies.  Let’s just say it ends badly.

Brigitte Bardot and Jack Palance.

Film poster. From IMDB.

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Vivre sa Vie

16 Monday Jul 2012

Posted by Angie in 1960's, Women

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1960's Paris, Anna Karina, Jean-Luc Godard, Nana, Vivre Sa Vie

Jean-Luc Godard’s ,”Vivre Sa Vie,” 1962, Anna Karina, plays Nana, a down-on-her-luck aspiring actress who falls prey to the dangers of prostitution: moral, psychological, and physical turmoil.

Could be a Chanel ad if it were not so melancholy. Anna Karina.

Her bob and black and white outfits remind one of Uma Thurman’s Mia character in “Pulp Fiction.” Anna Karina.

The prim ruffled shirt, cardigan and skirt belie her new profession. Anna Karina.

Anna Karina.

The fur-trimmed coat is lovely. Anna Karina.

Choosing to shoot in black and white adds to the starkness of Nana’s reality.  At once, she looks innocent and deeply repentant.  Anna Karina.

Jean-Luc Godard, 1962.

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A Woman is a Woman

15 Sunday Jul 2012

Posted by Angie in 1960's, Women

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A Woman is a Woman, Anna Karina, Jean-Luc Godard, women's sailor top

Jean-Luc Godard’s “A Woman is a Woman,” 1961, is his surprisingly light-hearted stab at romantic comedy/musical, but also trying to simultaneously subvert the genre.  Strippers having babies out of wedlock aren’t exactly subjects of bouncy Hollywood musicals.

Angela, his real-life wife Anna Karina, is a stripper who wants to have a baby.  Her boyfriend Emile doesn’t, but ridiculously suggests that she uses his friend Alfred, JP Belmondo, do the job.

Don’t know if it’s a “Singing in the Rain” reference with the umbrella (since it’s not raining), regardless it’s a nice pop of color. Anna Karina.

The white trench, black gloves, and red updo, tough and unexpectedly chic. Anna Karina.

Love that she has red tights, too.

She changes into her stripper costume. Anna Karina.

She does a little song. Anna Karina.

I love the thought of the sailor top as a jacket thrown over something super femme like this bustier. Anna Karina.

Her hair and makeup are super sweet. Anna Karina.

“A Woman is a Woman,” poster. Jean-Luc Godard.

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La Dolce Vita

12 Tuesday Jun 2012

Posted by Angie in 1960's

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Anita Ekberg, Federico Fellini, La Dolce Vita, Marcello Mastroianni

Finally… A movie.  Yes, I’ve been up to my popped collar in personal deadlines, house guests, colds, playdates and whatnot, for what seems like foreveh.  But Netflix waits for no man… They charge you regardless, homie.  So, I should at least get this dusty one back to them, it’s costing me!

Seven vignettes.  Not necessarily in chronological order.  Groundbreaking structure.  Films like this remind me that nothing is new anymore.  In fashion or in film.  That’s kinda depressing, isn’t it?  This film is 52 years old, and it’s more “modern” than anything being release this summer.  What can I say about “La Dolce Vita,” that hasn’t been said?  I can’t, so I’ll just show you the goodies.

Fellini’s masterpiece opens with a helicopter flying through the air carrying a statue of Jesus.  No subtle symbolism.  Religion in the modern age = celebrity worship.

Ah, the sweet life, indeed.

Love the retro bathing suits.

Marcello Mastroianni, as Marcello, a tabloid reporter checks out a bevy of beauties sunbathing on a rooftop.  He tries talking to them, but can’t hear what they’re saying.

As you well know, this is the film that gave us the term, paparazzi.  I love Anouk Amiee’s detached, sophisticated socialite, Maddelena.

Marcello meets American actress, Sylvia Rank, Anita Ekberg, and deems her to be everything.  She is lust, love, home, hearth, all rolled into one.  And coincidentally, she also possesses the most intimidating cleavage in all of cinema.

Va-va-bazooms!

You can see where those Marciano brothers get their ad inspiration.

I just like this shot.

Don’t you just love Marcello?  Can’t help but flirt a little with the stewardesses.  How cute are their uniforms?

Sultry.

Then sweet.

She climbs a church bell tower with the press laboring to keep up.  Her dress has Catholic undertones with the black long sleeves and high collar along with the white fabric positioned at the neck.

Even though she is an object of lust, Sylvia remains childlike and innocent.  She represents big, robust American optimism and domination of the post-war era.

The most memorable image from the film is Anita Ekberg in this black strapless gown.  If you didn’t see the film you’d think it was a straight column from the waist down, but it’s not.  It’s multi-layered and multicolored chiffon.

The setting, with the fire, grotto, costumed partygoers, all remind you of the pagan decadence of ancient Rome.

Even her dance partner’s facial hair makes him look like Pan, the Satyr.

Sylvia wanders off.  This dress flows beautifully.

And here it is.

The moment you all have been waiting for.

She beckons Marcello to join her.

Marcello and Anita in the Trevi fountain.  She is a goddess, like Aphrodite emerging from the sea, and he is a mere mortal.  The water stops flowing, like a spell that’s been broken.  She is not a goddess, merely an actress, and stuck in her own dysfunctional relationship.

Roman ruins. Decadence.  Modern life empty of meaning.  The next vignette, he meets up with his friend Steiner who represents cold intellectualism devoid of religious faith.  Fellini, raised Catholic, may have felt torn between being an intellectual, and being a devout believer in Christ and everlasting life.

The vignette with the Madonna sighting turns religion into a hoax morphing into a cash grab.  The truly devout end up looking like fools.

I just like all their glasses.

Marcello escapes his suffocating girlfriend, Emma, hiding out at a seaside town, trying to write his novel.  He meets Paola, a young waitress and is taken with her beauty and innocence.

This has nothing to do with fashion, but I love the how the window coverings let light pass through to form a pattern on the floors and walls. Great idea for a restaurant or a boutique.

The next vignette Marcello’s father visits him in Rome.  They are not close but Marcello wishes he knew his father better.  Family is disconnected from his life, and he despises his girlfriend.  He is truly alone.  His father tries to hook up with one of the dancers, but can’t, um, perform.  Marcello sends him home.  Is this his fate?  To be old and still chasing after showgirls.

Cabaret dancers in flapper gear.  Love the black and white dresses.

The next vignette Marcello tags along with Nico, playing herself, to a grand aristocrat’s estate outside of Rome.

OMG. I totally forgot Nico was in this!  How fab are these two together???  I always thought of “La Dolce Vita” as older than it actually is.  But this reminded me it’s right before Swinging London and Hippies in America.  Nico really pulls your focus ,and puts you exactly in that end-of-Don Draper era.

The party at an old Italian aristocratic family shows the old societal class structures crumbling like the ruins of the Roman Empire.

Incredibly wealthy and incredibly bored, nothing’s really changed.

They walk back to the castle after a night of casual sex and ghost-hunting.

The next vignette Marcello finds out Steiner shot and killed his children and then himself.  This seems to send him off the deep end.  If someone who Marcello revered, and looked up to, and seemingly possessed everything he himself wanted: a beautiful family, a loving wife, a beautiful house and children, intellectual respect, couldn’t find happiness in life, how could he?

The next vignette shows Marcello indulging in debauchery of rock star proportions.  He’s ready to sell his soul to the highest bidder.  He’s with a group of revelers to celebrate a middle-aged woman getting an annulment.  His pitiful desperation to keep the party going while everyone else knows it’s time to go, symbolizes his own refusal to grow up, stuck in eternal adolescence.

After the owner of the house kicks them out, the gang spots a beach in the distance. Something about this group of people in the forest seems almost magical.

It’s framed in such a lovely way, and tracks along…

… As they run to the beach.

We follow behind them, as if we’re part of the party.  You can see how these party people start morphing into his later films as exaggerations, caricatures, carnival-like folk.  What they call Felliniesque, in his later films.

They witness the fishermen pull up the carcass of a prehistoric sea creature. It’s eyes open like it’s seen eons come and go, underscoring how little time we humans have on this planet.

The last shots mirror the opening shots. Marcello talking to a girl in the distance, unable to hear her respond. This time it’s the angelic Paola, the waitress from the seaside cafe. Is it his innocence and youth he can’t connect with?  Or maybe he’s finally growing up, letting go of his youth.

If anything, this film is a study in contrasts.  Modern Rome vs. ancient Rome.  Powerful vs. weak.  Respected writer vs. reviled tabloid journalist.  Madonna vs. whore.  Decadence vs. innocence.  Clingy Emma (girlfriend) vs. Aloof Sylvia (dream girl).

It’s complex, glamorous (even if self-reflective), and intellectual.  Very rare to find that these days.

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2046

29 Thursday Mar 2012

Posted by Angie in 1960's, Future

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Christopher Doyle, Faye Wong, Gong Li, Pung-Leung Kwan, Tony Leung Chiu-Wai, William Chang, Won Kar Wai, Ziyi Zhang

It’s the late 60’s and the streets of Hong Kong are full of social upheaval.  Won Kar Wai’s third film ties “Days of Being Wild,” “In the Mood for Love,” and “2046,” in a loose, frenetic, film bouquet.  Christopher Doyle, Pung-Leung Kwan, DPs, William Chang Costume and Set Design.

We follow Tony Leung’s Mr. Chow after he returns from Singapore and continues to write his sci-fi serials, and chase women.  Maggie Cheung’s, Mrs. Chan is gone, but Maggie Cheung pops up in the imagined future of his serial where everyone is trying to get to a place called 2046, to recapture lost memories because there, nothing changes.

2046 is the apartment number Mr. Chow had many fond memories in with Mrs. Chan (Maggie Leung, from “In the Mood for Love”) and he happens to end up at another apartment 2046, this time with a woman named Lulu.  Lulu’s character was first seen in Won Kar Wai’s “Days of Being Wild.” He leaves her in 2046, passed out and drunk, and comes the next day to return her room key.  He wants to rent 2046, but unknown to him, Lulu’s jealous lover stabbed her there the night before.  He ends up taking 2047 and watches his neighbors in 2046 through a grate at the top of the wall.

Faye Wong, Jing-Wen, with a bouffant. She is his heartsick neighbor and daughter of the hotel owner.

She pines away for her forbidden love, a Japanese man.

A gorgeous shot of her in a red dress with her love.

Here's closer look at her neckline, love the tiny cap sleeves.

"Mad Men" started up again, so Mr. Chow is back with his mid-century Hong Kong ties.

Android Jing from the scenes of Mr. Chow's serial. Androids can smoke because they don't get cancer.

Another shot from the serial.

And another. Lots of reds used for the futuristic stuff. Maybe to contrast all the green they use for the present.

Mr. Chow is lost and floats from woman to woman, cigarette to cigarette, casino to casino.  His hardened heart bleeds for no one.  Ziyi Zhang’s character, Bai Ling, a neighbor in 2046, is a party girl who falls for Mr. Chow.

I just like the shot of Bai's feet.

Bejeweled cheongsam.

They flirt. Check out the elbow length gloves.

I love her red cheetah print with black flower.

Hanging out by this sign, on the roof of the hotel seems to be a refuge of sorts for everyone.

This is something most of us couldn't get away with now. Let's just throw this fur on to grab a drink.

They party together a lot. I love her cheongsam with the sequins on the front.

The back is plain.

She is hardly shy, why is she pushing him away?

Maybe she senses something more serious on her end.

I don't know if it's deliberate, but this has a "Breakfast at Tiffany's" feel. The pearls, hair, dress, and she's a party girl too, only this is the anti-Tiffany's, and the girl and boy don't end up together.

He treats her like a prostitute, paying for their trysts.  She jokes and gives him a discounted rate since he insists on paying.  She wants him exclusively but he refuses.  She leaves him but not without throwing money at him on her way out.  He has boiled down his most intimate human interactions to transactions.

Mr. Chow continues to bed women like this one waiting to join him. Bai eventually moves out, tortured by his games. I like this shot because androids are used in the futuristic scenes as replacements for women, and with her reflection, it subtly says this woman might as well be a clone or robot sent to pleasure Mr. Chow. He won't give a second thought about her once she's gone. He'll just get another one just like her.

Mr. Chow bonds with the apartment owner’s daughter Jing-Wen, Faye Wong.  She is heartsick over her Japanese lover whom her father forbade her to see.  They work on martial arts books together.  Platonic relationships with women is where Mr. Chow finally shows some humanity.

He offers his address so her Japanese lover can send her letters. This is a tough look to pull off, brown suit with orangey/rust tie. But he looks fab.

She devours each letter.

He feels good by helping her. It gets him in touch with his humanity, and I think he gets a vicarious thrill helping true love blossom.

Despite numerous women, Mr. Chow, alone again.

In his futuristic serial, 2046, Mr. Chow’s protagonist, a Japanese man, leaves 2046.  He is the first to do so, and finds an android (Faye Wong) who looks just like his lost love to fill the void.

Android Jing.

Don't you love these light up soles?

It’s as if all the women Mr. Chow has been with since Mrs. Chan (Maggie Cheung) have been androids, filling the void of his unrequited love for her.

I love how this conversation is shot. Mr. Chow convinces Jing to call her lover. When the camera pans, the reflections overlap and the effect is powerful. Mr. Chow is an author. He writes his character's destinies. Here he is "writing" Jing's destiny, and his role in fantasy and reality are morphing into one another.

He watches Jing talk to her lover on a long distance call. The green and red lights in the background are Christmas lights, but they're also the main color story in the film.

Bringing her happiness brings him joy.  Maybe the act of bringing lovers together mends his wounded heart, or lets him feel a purity he lacks in his encounters.  He has acted as a sort of author to their story, being the catalyst to their impending marriage.

Mr. Chow meets Su Li-zhen, Gong Li, a professional gambler, in Singapore.  She coincidentally has the same name as Maggie Cheung’s, Mrs. Chan, the reason he left for Singapore.  Ms. Su helps him win back his money to return to Hong Kong.

The Singapore scenes are drab. No color. Mr. Chow has hit his low.

I love the simple black blazer with the shortened sleeves, over her black lace dress.

2046 is really just a state of mind.  Your mind can trap you into staying in the past because you long for the way it was, or because you were so traumatized by it, you cannot move forward.  Either way, the past is not real, and we should not try to live there.  In his serial his protagonist leaves 2046, whereas Mr. Chow is woefully stuck there.  Aren’t we all just authors of our own stories?  Will yours have a happy or sad ending?

I don’t think this was received well, but I didn’t mind it’s meandering, multiple storylines, and threadbare narrative.  Like a mink coat, I loved the look and feel of it, even it’s not popular to say so.

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Belle de Jour

16 Friday Mar 2012

Posted by Angie in 1960's, Women

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Belle de Jour, Catherine Deneuve, Genvieve Page, Jean Sorel, Luis Bunel, Michel

Coincidences abound. “Belle de Jour,” was in my queue and I had just read about how popular the BDSM book, 50 Shades of Grey, was with the soccer mom set. It’s was written by a British former television exec, and mother of two. And the fact that a real New Jersey soccer mom just got busted for being a madam at a high class brothel in New York. What is going on, ladies? I don’t know how you have the energy for sex, much less kinky sex? It seems like SO much work to me.

Soccer mom madam: http://articles.nydailynews.com/2012-03-11/news/31144205_1_prostitution-ring-defense-lawyer-surrenders

50 Shades of Grey: http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/jacketcopy/2012/03/bestselling-mommy-porn-50-shades-of-gray-.html

Anyhoo, here it is and I admit, film geek that I am, have not seen it until now. Always heard about it, admired Bunel’s work, but never saw it. Maybe the subject matter was a little to risque to be covered in school. It was also tied up in a legal mess and re-released theatrically in 1994, by Miramax Zoe. My limited French translated “Belle de Jour” as beauty of the day, which I thought was a reference to her working in a brothel. But it’s actually a reference to a day lily, which the French call belle de jour, a flower that only blooms during the day, and Severine only works during the day. But I think both interpretations work.

They start riding in a coach (a symbol of the rigid social class rules?), then Pierre gets mad at Severine, ties her up...

... and lets the men have at her.

Cut to her in bed, you realize she's just fantasizing. Isn't she GORGEOUS. It's really not fair.

There’s a quick cut and you get a glimpse of Severine in a questionable circumstance when’s she’s about 10 or 11. Maybe that’s why she escapes into her fantasies. Her husband comments that she’ll never grow up, she comes off childlike in many ways.

Love her tennis outfit. Not really made for playing.

Fab, fab, fab. YSL. Gimme. Now. And those Roger Vivier buckle shoes.

Her upper class clothes set her apart from the other girls. Love her chain belt.

So fantastic. The hat, the oversize glasses, the patent leather trench.

Here's a better shot of the trench.

The grey knit dress would be great for spring. Imagine it in white and pale blue with some striped espadrilles.

She agrees to participate in a stranger's yearly ritual. She dons a full length black veil. I think this part is another one of her fantasies.

An overt reference to "Breathless." This film is almost its opposite. A man selling the Hearld Tribune, instead of a woman, to an older, Belmondo-type gangster. Where "Breathless" is light, "Belle de Jour" is dark. Jean Seberg a pixie-haired, American bohemian, Catherine Deneuve, long-haired, proper French aristocrat. Seberg is free and independent, Deneuve repressed and trapped in her role.

These knitted shifts look so comfy and perfect for spring. Since they're A-line, they'd still great if you gain a couple pounds.

LOVE her in this. The satiny spread collar, the gold cuff links, and super fab hair.

...And the back. If only I knew how to do this French twist + bun and if only my hair would stay up!

When I read that Yves Saint Laurent provided her clothes, I was excited, but was disappointed that they’re aren’t that many wardrobe changes! WTF Yves! She was his muse and the face of his cosmetics line in the 70’s.

Severine gets involved with a gangster, and he shoots Pierre in a jealous rage. Pierre ends up blind and paralyzed. His friend Mr. Husson, knows what Severine’s been up to, and tells her that he is going to tell Pierre. Her actions have done irreparable damage to Pierre and their marriage. Only blinded, Pierre sees his wife for what she truly is. She has always withheld sex from him, and now he’s been deprived of his virility forever. Mr. Husson leaves, and Severine goes back to check on Pierre. She sits, then sees him take off his glasses and walk.

This ending is ambiguous, is she fantasizing? Or was Pierre being injured a fantasy? Was the whole thing a fantasy? I think her mind is fleeing reality by fantasizing that everything is OK, that Pierre is fine, and they’re the same as they were before. The film shows the gangsters in their element without Severine around, so I think Bunel is saying they are real.

Directed by Luis Bunel, 1967.

What a trip! Check it out.

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Mel Gibson

28 Saturday Jan 2012

Posted by Angie in 1910's, 1960's, Future, Men

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Gallipoli, George Miller, Mel Gibson, Norma Moriceau, Peter Weir, Road Warrior, Terry Ryan, The Year of Living Dangerously

Before he went off the rails, Mel was the too-pretty-to-be-ruggedly handsome Aussie import.  He’s now gray, and the years of smoking and drinking have caught up with him, not to mention the immediacy of a shitstorm when your ex uploads you losing it on tape.

He looks sheepish and apologetic now, but in his youth no one was more entrancing.  He was tall, dark, tan with deep emerald eyes that always seemed to be searching.

Random?  Yes, he’s not known as a trendsetter, but he’s been doing some speaking engagements around town, and I’ve been watching “Downton Abbey,” and they’re in WWI right now, and it made me think of “Gallipoli” which made me think of Mel and what a stunner he was.

“Gallipoli,” directed by Peter Weir, 1981, is the heart-wrenching story of two young Australian men who join the WWI effort in Turkey.  The Australians battle the German allied Turks in the battle at Gallipoli, later known for the immense number of casualties suffered by Britain and its allies.  The loss was a sobering, bloody, reality of the price of war to the ANZAC (Australia New Zealand Army Corps) and the people of those young nations.

Curiously, there is no Costume Designer credited.  They did a bang up job.  Watching it again, there is lots of great styling details for you to use.

The credits from IMDB:

Phil Eagles …. stand-by wardrobe
Graham Purcell …. assistant wardrobe coordinator
Terry Ryan …. wardrobe coordinator
Abdel Sameeh …. wardrobe assistant: Egypt

The first half is in dusty western Australia. Lots of great woven shirt inspiration.

I love the two stripes on this one. Layers and braces (suspenders, the ones you button, not clip.)

Lots of great dusty, pastel, striped wovens. Archie, the sprinter, at right.

Bandanas and vests.

There's Mel.

I love the bright, patterned bandana, against his dark coat. Archie's uncle, a world-class sprinter in his own day. He also represents the nation, and Archie the unlimited potential of its youth.

He always looks like he's up to somethin'. The cap tipped just so, the cigarette.

I can see why Mark Lee was cast. Very fresh-faced and representative of innocence.

Gosh, they're cute. Even dirty and confused-looking.

Nice and cleaned up.

Love the patterned bandana.

More caps and vests.

In the trenches.

War games are over. They hear the sounds of real battle. I'm sure Weir chose sundown to signify that lives are about to end.

Weir uses a lot of mirroring in this film.  Archie trains on a field as a young man, dies on a battlefield a man.  Track uniform, to military uniform.  The men train for battle in the shadow of the Sphinx in Egypt.  They die at Gallipoli in the shadow of a rock formation called the Sphinx.  Archie’s cattle rancher hat, to Archie’s Light Brigade hat. Racing for sport, to racing for your life and the lives of others, Archie’s chest out crossing-the-finish-line pose, to Archie chest-out-dying pose.

Leading up to this shot, Weir tracks Archie sprinting, echoing his training at the beginning with his uncle. Right before he charges, he gives himself a pep talk. The same one his uncle gives him at the beginning. It serves to both give Archie the adrenaline boost, and to also remind him and us of his home. He should be home training to be an Olympic athlete, not about to charge into a wall of machine gun fire without a snowball's chance in hell of surviving. Weir shoots Archie from the side, running for the "finish" line. He is gunned down, arms go up. From the front it could easily look like a Christ pose, but Weir is too tasteful for that. Archie is not a martyr for a religious cause. He is a casualty of the insanity of war. Weir ends the film on this freeze frame. This says it all. Your country's best and brightest young men, sent to die, for what?

The irony is that the military only takes healthy men.  WWI devastated all participating nations.  No country was left untouched from heavy loss of life.  Where would this world be today if these courageous men didn’t die?  What inventions and innovations never came to pass?

Weir is a master of economy and impact.  The least amount of words, no scene too long, for maximum impact.  I am a puddle.  I cannot bear the ending.

“The Road Warrior,” 1981, came on the heels of the underground success of “Mad Max.”  Both take place in the dusty post-apocalyptic, leather daddy future.  George Miller’s argument for weaning ourselves off oil dependence?

Leathered up.

Hmmm...

I think this movie is in the closet.

Norma Moriceau’s bondage-y costumes were eye-opening and unique to say the least, for the hyper-macho, violence buffet that’s served here.

“The Year of Living Dangerously,” 1982, Peter Weir’s tropical drama puts an ever-glistening Mel in the midst of political turmoil and a romantic triangle.  Costume Design by Terry Ryan.

Mid 60's suit will have to go.

Those aviators can stay.

Ah, that's better.

Love the pleat with vent in the back.

Man, he was handsome.

Even the poster is stylish and sexy. A throwback to vintage suspense thrillers.

Peter Weir is great at slow, taut, tension.  And Linda Hunt earned every ounce of Academy gold for her portrayal of Billy Kwan, a half-Chinese man.  She was a woman playing a man.  Maybe this sets a precedent of sorts for Glenn Close who plays a woman pretending to be a man in “Albert Nobbs” for this year’s Oscar race.

Dang, he was busy in the early 80’s!  I think he looked the best in these.  I hope he gets the help he needs and gets back to making great films.

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Hollywood and the Ivy Look

12 Thursday Jan 2012

Posted by Angie in 1950's, 1960's, Books, Men

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Anthony Perkins, Hollywood and the Ivy Look, Paul Newman, Steve McQueen

Not to be confused with Blue Ivy, mini Beyonce.

This is a new book from Reel Art that tracks the satorial influence of preppies on hipsters from 1956 to 1965.

Anthony Perkins. Classic clothes always look good.

So strange to think of McQueen's style as preppie, but i guess it was in this decade. He's still the man.

Paul Newman was really fine, wasn't he?

http://www.reelartpress.com/catalog/edition/43/hollywood-and-the-ivy-look

 

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2011 Award Season is under way

26 Monday Dec 2011

Posted by Angie in 1910's, 1920's, 1930's, 1940's, 1950's, 1960's, 1970's, 1990's, Men, stuff to see, Women

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Arianne Phillips, David Fincher, Los Angeles Times

I’m SO behind in reading my papers.  But I’d be remiss for not mentioning Dec. 18th, LA Times Image Section.  Lots of great articles on this year’s crop of exciting costumes.

On David Fincher’s “Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.”

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-dragon-tattoo-20111218,0,7503394.story

On the surge in 20’s inspirations, “The Artist,” and Baz Luhrmann’s “The Great Gatsby.”

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-artist-20111218,0,6082131.story

Arianne Phillips talks about “W.E.” and the work remaking Wallis Simpson’s stunning wardrobe.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-phillips-20111218,0,7127321.story

Costume Design as part of building a character.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-honorable-20111218,0,6699626.story

Menswear from this season’s films.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-mens-styles-20111218,0,7403329.story

This just illustrates how little time I have to actually go see movies!!!  Oy.  You single childless people go frolic carefree into the night and see them for me!

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In the Mood for Love

15 Thursday Dec 2011

Posted by Angie in 1960's, Men, Women

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Christopher Doyle, Maggie Cheung, Tony Leung Chiu-Wai, William Chang, Wong Kar-wai

Hong Kong, 1962. Mr. Chow, Tony Leung Chiu Wai, and Mrs. Chan, Maggie Cheung are neighbors in a noisy Hong Kong apartment building.  Their spouses work late, or are out of town a lot so naturally they start spending time with each other.  It becomes painfully obvious to them that their spouses are having an affair.  Saddened, but self-righteous, they vow not to be like their cheatin’ spouses.  They never consummate their love for each other, just luxuriate in the sexual tension.

I think this is Wong Kar-Wai‘s best film.  What can I say?  I’m a sucker for a plot.  With music I love a great hook and melody, too.  I guess I’m a traditionalist.  The story moves slowly, deliberately, to its unrequited end.

It’s beautifully, cleverly shot by oft-imitated, hugely influential Christopher Doyle (who also had a mad crush on Maggie Cheung.)  Atmospheric without being indulgent.  OK maybe a few cliches like, slow mo shots of the rain, and billowing smoke.  But with him behind the camera, it feels fresh.  Many shots from behind objects, around corners, through windows, over shoulders, as if we’re spying on them.  Gives their relationship an illicit feel.

But let’s talk about the clothes!  My God watching Maggie Cheung makes me wanna diet.  She’s so tall and slim, everything looks divine on her.  And let’s not leave out Tong Leung.  First of all, what a handsome guy.  And second of all, putting him in the 60’s suits and ties really does it for me.  This was the “Mad Men” look more than a decade before “Mad Men” with a dash of Hong Kong flavor.

Love the print on this cheongsam.

See? Put that cupcake down if you ever want to look this thin.

The first furtive glance between them.

Great vintage tie.

I'm not sure if this is a knit or woven pattern, but I love it. Sort of a vertical Missoni. Notice the front of the collar is black.

Notice the back of the collar flows into the bodice. They matched it to the back like wallpaper.

Is she not the chicest secretary ever?

Couldn't get a good shot of his tie. But you get the idea.

Again, not sure if this is a knit or woven pattern. I think probably a woven, since they're usually made from wovens. In any case, I love the pattern.

Here's a longer shot.

Lime green! So fresh.

Another great tie.

Even her older boss has a great tie. Aren't these the best widths? Not too skinny, not too fat.

First of all, I love stripes, so this had me at first look. Secondly, it's sheer. Something different.

They cross paths, avert their eyes. Violins sing longingly in the background.  Nat King Cole croons in Spanish, gives it a European feel.  The music sounds romantic, sultry when they’re together, plaintive and melancholy when only one of them is seen.  The instrumental music also reminds me of the music in “Room with a View” when Lucy, Charlotte and Ms. Lavish walk around Florence.  Even the stuccoed buildings look vaguely Italian.

I love men in a light grey suit, don't you? With a pocket square, no less.

Together, alone.

She's helping him write a martial arts serial. She gets stuck inside his apartment while the noisy neighbors play mah jong in the common area. She dare not leave or everyone will know what they're (not) up to.

They role play. He pretends to be her husband, she "confronts" him about his mistress. Another great tie.

Beautiful, graphic, floral.

Even better with the red coat.

Just a great shot.

I love that this is a solid, but with a bit of floral detail at the edge. Unexpected and lovely.

This to me is the shot that sums up the movie. They are waiting out the storm in their marriages, taking comfort with each other. She can't even bring herself to use his umbrella (accepting him) for fear of others gossiping (submissive to society's rules.)

A classic!  Costume design by William Chang.  This dude also edited it and did the production design (unless there are three different William Changs working on this.)  That explains the consistency of the look of the film.  But no one thinks about William Chang, only how wonderful this Wong Kar Wai film is.

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FAVES, no particular order

Directed by James Ivory, Costume Design Jenny Beavan, 1985

Directed by Jack Clayton, Costume Design Theoni V. Aldredge, 1974

Directed by Sally Potter, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1992

Direct by Arthur Penn, Costume Design Theadora Van Runkle, 1967

Directed by Iain Softley, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1997

Directed by Wong Kar Wai, Costume Design William Chang, 2000

Directed by Paul Thomas Anderson, Costume Design Mark Bridges, 2007

Directed by Cary Joji Fukanaga, Costume Design Michael O'Connor 2011

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