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The Fashionéaste

Category Archives: Men

Fresh Dressed

05 Saturday Sep 2015

Posted by Angie in Men, stuff to see, Women

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1970's, 1980's, Addidas, B-boys, Bronx, Brooklyn, Fresh, Fresh Dressed, gold chains, Harlem, Hip-Hop, Kangol, Queens, Rap, Rappers

CNN Films is delving into the Rap/style game with Fresh Dressed, a doc on the history of Hip-Hop fashion.

Kangol, gold chains, Addidas. Still dope.

Kangol, gold chains, and Addidas. Still dope.

Fresh Dressed

Unfortunately you can’t stream the whole thing but you can watch it as a live stream when they air it on CNN.

If vintage Hip-Hop is your thing, and you haven’t seen Wild Style (not the Lego chick), then you must watch it NOW. You can stream it on Netflix. No Netflix? You can visit their site for a taste.

A landmark doc on Hip-Hop.

A landmark doc on Hip-Hop.

Wild Style

Peace out!

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L’Avventura

13 Thursday Sep 2012

Posted by Angie in 1950's, Men, Women

≈ 2 Comments

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Gabriele Ferzetti, L'Avventura, Lea Massari, Michelangelo Antonioni, Monica Vitti, post war Italy

Michelangelo Antonioni’s, “L’Avventura,” was booed at it’s first screening at Cannes, in 1959. Such is the reaction to all things new and groundbreaking. The second screening fared much better, it was hailed as a genius work of art.

Anna, her boyfriend, Sandro, and best friend Claudia, go for a lovely boat ride one summer. Anna goes missing, and the boating party tries in vain to find her. Sandro and Claudia bond over the incident and start romantically seeing each other. Anna is never found, which begs the question, what happened to her? Which Antonioni never answers. It’s an art film. No tidy endings, people. It’s more like a meditation on love, life, and the transitory nature of it.

Anna’s father tells her Sandro will never marry her. Don’t you love his polka dot tie? Lea Massari and Renzo Ricci.

Anna’s simple dress is perfect for Spring/Summer. I love that there’s two ties at the waist. Monica Vitti and Lea Massari.

Anna fears losing Sandro, but simultaneously feels numb in her surroundings. This might reflect an Italian post-war sensibility. Intense feelings towards comforting emotions like love, but a numb psyche as a result of the recent WWII horrors, and unable to fully enjoy emotions like love.

Anna, Sandro, and Claudia embark on a short cruise.

l'avventura Monica Vitti

Love the deep V back of Claudia’s, (Monica Vitti) swimsuit.

l' avventura Italian fisherman's sweater

Love this Italian fisherman’s sweater.

l'avventura Lea Massari Gabriele Ferzetti

Anna has misgivings about getting married to Sandro. She wants him but at the same time, would be fine without him. She’s cornfused. This is the last we see of her.

Anna goes missing. Claudia, Sandro, and their friend Corrado stay on the island to continue searching for her. Claudia and Sandro develop an attraction to each other.

L'avventura Esmeralda Ruspoli Leilo Luttazzi Dominique Blanchar

This could be a Prada ad. Old Italian money + whimsy.

l'avventura 10

Antonioni is a master at framing. If I were a painter or photographer/DP, I’d be totally inspired by him.

l' avventura men's scarves

A study in Italian working-class men’s scarves and layering.

l' avventura Monica Vitti

Monica Vitti in repose. I love her shoes and that her sweater is not super fitted, but more blouse-like.

l' avventura Monica Vitti

It looks even better with a great handbag.

l' avventura Monica Vitti

Claudia, Monica Vitti, feels guilt for falling for Sandro. The ocean in the background remind you of Anna’s disappearance.

l' avventura

Antonioni goes out of his way to inject this little scene. This girl, Gloria Perkins, causes a near riot by walking around the city with a ripped side seam, exposing her undies and garter. The reporter Sandro sought out, explains it’s all a ruse to get some attention for herself and maybe a sucker willing to shell out big bucks to “date” her. Is Antonioni commenting on modern love being merely a transaction?

l'avventura monica vitti

I like that the ruffles are arranged on the chair framing Monica. It makes the frame more dynamic.

L'avventura Monica Vitti Esmeralda Ruspoli

Claudia dons one of Patrizia’s wigs, and looks like a certain missing girl.

L'avventura Monica Vitti

Polka dot suit + scarf. Serious, but fun.

L'avventura Monica Vitti

Interesting framing. Claudia’s double layered dress is too. Don’t see it being much for the masses though.

L'avventura Monica Vitti Gabriele Ferzetti

The last shot captures the theme of loneliness in love. Claudia fell in love with Sandro, then felt tremendous guilt for not wanting to find Anna. Sandro thinks he loves Claudia, but then gives in to his lust and hooks up with Gloria. Romantic love is difficult and complex and never is the answer to all of life’s problems. Claudia and Sandro are together but surrounded by emptiness.

Empty, desolate landscapes in natural and urban settings underscore the rudderless and lonely feelings of modern life.

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Contempt

17 Tuesday Jul 2012

Posted by Angie in 1960's, Men, Women

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Brigitte Bardot, Contempt, Jack Palance, Jean-Luc Godard, Michel Piccoli

Jean-Luc Godard’s, “Contempt,” 1963, features the ever-gorgeous Brigitte Bardot and Michel Piccoli, as Camille and Paul Javal.  Paul is rewriting a film adaptation of Homer’s, The Odyssey, for producer Jeremy Prokosch, Jack Palance, and directed by none other than Fritz Lang (playing himself).  Paul sells out his writer’s integrity by trying to make it more commercial and his wife’s affection by basically handing her to Prokosch.

Ok, this has nothing to do with fashion, but isn’t Fritz’s monocle gangsta? Fritz Lang.

Here’s Paul saying, “No, you ride with him, I’ll take a cab.”  You can figure out the rest. Love Brigitte’s super wide headband. Brigitte Bardot, Michel Piccoli, and Jack Palance in the car.

Camille practices being a seductress. Playful or is it Godard’s comment on how easily we are seduced by her? Brigitte Bardot.

Pouty, sexy Brigitte Bardot.

A cute shot of her in a hat. Brigitte Bardot.

Here she is looking soooo different in a black wig. Brigitte Bardot.

On a trip to Capri Paul tells Camille to go on without him, again. Really? It’s sun-dappled Capri, your wife looks like Brigitte Bardot and you’re telling her to go have fun with another guy?

I love the full skirt with the pink pullover, demure, but on her, super sexy. Brigitte Bardot.

I’ve read that Bardot’s hair is the most referenced hair by uber hair stylists. The long bangs (fringe), volume on top, long, thick, somewhat bedroom tousled, is pretty much seen every season and in countless editorial shoots.

Brigitte Bardot.

Camille leaves Paul for Prokosch (Jack Palance?) Only in the movies.  Let’s just say it ends badly.

Brigitte Bardot and Jack Palance.

Film poster. From IMDB.

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Boutonnieres

09 Thursday Feb 2012

Posted by Angie in Accessories, Men

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boutonnieres, buttonhole pins, lapel pins

Or lapel pin, or buttonhole pin, anyway you say it, a great accessory opportunity for both men and women.

Clark Gable was a fan.

Carmelo Anthony at the Versace show last year.

http://www.latimesmagazine.com/2012/02/image-xy-factor-buttonholes-in-bloom.html

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There Will Be Blood

04 Saturday Feb 2012

Posted by Angie in 1900's, 1910's, Men

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Daniel Day Lewis, Mark Bridges, Paul Thomas Anderson, There Will Be Blood

… And great pants! Or should I say trousers? And shirts, and layering for men.

Daniel Day-Lewis plays a poor gold prospector turned rich oil speculator in Paul Thomas Anderson, 2007, film. Watching it again, I really hate that he doesn’t do more films. He really deserved the Oscar for that performance.

All the pants are high-waisted. The cinch belt in the back, and loose leg.

Love the dusty, faded color palette.

The only time Daniel is not ruthless is when he's with his adopted son, H.W. He says he only took care of him because he needed a sweet face to buy land, but this shows that the baby had him at hello. This connection is his salvation of sorts. His only outlet for tenderness and love.

They are an adorable pair, aren't they? The pocket watch chain is a key accessory. And I never thought about pens as an accessory, but antique pens in you pocket look rather nice.

Stripes and vests.

Vintage hunting gear always looks fashionable.

Jodhpurs? Look great on him. But then again, being long and lean, anything would.

I love the braces (suspenders that button, not clip) belt detail.

Layered neutrals.

More braces. Oh, how I wish I bought these Ralph Lauren ones I saw a few years ago. I balked at the $120 price, but now, regretting not buying. Moral of the story: if you find something unique that fills a wardrobe void, buy it.

Paul Dano's simple preacher look.

Love the gold tie.

I just like this shot. The colors, the workwear clothes.

I love his shirt, but can't help thinking, did they have double needle machines during this time? It's all over his shirt. I'll let it go.

I LOVE this shot. Paul Dano looks like he's in a Magritte painting. I'm sure P.T. Anderson was trying to convince himself that it would be OK if Dano wore a bowler hat. But, no, a rural preacher would not. Speaking of surreal, it must've been for the Sunday family. There's oil all around them but they can't make any money off it.

I love that Daniel is kicking Eli's ass and all I can focus on are Daniels boots and pants.

They're fantastic!

Such dark denim and such a pin thin wide stripe.

I love his small collar. Signals his smallness, his insignificance.

The echoes back to the baby image. H.W. is trying to connect with him, but it doesn't work this time.

Here the pocket watch chain is straight across. Gives you some variety on how to wear it.

Anderson tracks groups of men walking hurriedly from behind.

As if we're one of them, the masses that are about to develop California.

Family = blood. Blood = conflict. There will be conflict within our families. How we handle it is what defines us. Daniel says he’s always wanted a family, even when he was a young boy. But look how he treated his adopted son. H.W. lost his hearing, but it’s Daniel who is deaf. He doesn’t listen to anyone but himself. He never married. He only worked and when he started making significant money, that was the relationship that ruled the rest of his life. In the end he’s left with nothing but money.

Such a great film very loosely based on the first part Upton Sinclair novel, Oil! I can’t believe he got it made. Mark Bridges did a tremendous job. He’s nominated this year for “The Artist.”

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Mel Gibson

28 Saturday Jan 2012

Posted by Angie in 1910's, 1960's, Future, Men

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Gallipoli, George Miller, Mel Gibson, Norma Moriceau, Peter Weir, Road Warrior, Terry Ryan, The Year of Living Dangerously

Before he went off the rails, Mel was the too-pretty-to-be-ruggedly handsome Aussie import.  He’s now gray, and the years of smoking and drinking have caught up with him, not to mention the immediacy of a shitstorm when your ex uploads you losing it on tape.

He looks sheepish and apologetic now, but in his youth no one was more entrancing.  He was tall, dark, tan with deep emerald eyes that always seemed to be searching.

Random?  Yes, he’s not known as a trendsetter, but he’s been doing some speaking engagements around town, and I’ve been watching “Downton Abbey,” and they’re in WWI right now, and it made me think of “Gallipoli” which made me think of Mel and what a stunner he was.

“Gallipoli,” directed by Peter Weir, 1981, is the heart-wrenching story of two young Australian men who join the WWI effort in Turkey.  The Australians battle the German allied Turks in the battle at Gallipoli, later known for the immense number of casualties suffered by Britain and its allies.  The loss was a sobering, bloody, reality of the price of war to the ANZAC (Australia New Zealand Army Corps) and the people of those young nations.

Curiously, there is no Costume Designer credited.  They did a bang up job.  Watching it again, there is lots of great styling details for you to use.

The credits from IMDB:

Phil Eagles …. stand-by wardrobe
Graham Purcell …. assistant wardrobe coordinator
Terry Ryan …. wardrobe coordinator
Abdel Sameeh …. wardrobe assistant: Egypt

The first half is in dusty western Australia. Lots of great woven shirt inspiration.

I love the two stripes on this one. Layers and braces (suspenders, the ones you button, not clip.)

Lots of great dusty, pastel, striped wovens. Archie, the sprinter, at right.

Bandanas and vests.

There's Mel.

I love the bright, patterned bandana, against his dark coat. Archie's uncle, a world-class sprinter in his own day. He also represents the nation, and Archie the unlimited potential of its youth.

He always looks like he's up to somethin'. The cap tipped just so, the cigarette.

I can see why Mark Lee was cast. Very fresh-faced and representative of innocence.

Gosh, they're cute. Even dirty and confused-looking.

Nice and cleaned up.

Love the patterned bandana.

More caps and vests.

In the trenches.

War games are over. They hear the sounds of real battle. I'm sure Weir chose sundown to signify that lives are about to end.

Weir uses a lot of mirroring in this film.  Archie trains on a field as a young man, dies on a battlefield a man.  Track uniform, to military uniform.  The men train for battle in the shadow of the Sphinx in Egypt.  They die at Gallipoli in the shadow of a rock formation called the Sphinx.  Archie’s cattle rancher hat, to Archie’s Light Brigade hat. Racing for sport, to racing for your life and the lives of others, Archie’s chest out crossing-the-finish-line pose, to Archie chest-out-dying pose.

Leading up to this shot, Weir tracks Archie sprinting, echoing his training at the beginning with his uncle. Right before he charges, he gives himself a pep talk. The same one his uncle gives him at the beginning. It serves to both give Archie the adrenaline boost, and to also remind him and us of his home. He should be home training to be an Olympic athlete, not about to charge into a wall of machine gun fire without a snowball's chance in hell of surviving. Weir shoots Archie from the side, running for the "finish" line. He is gunned down, arms go up. From the front it could easily look like a Christ pose, but Weir is too tasteful for that. Archie is not a martyr for a religious cause. He is a casualty of the insanity of war. Weir ends the film on this freeze frame. This says it all. Your country's best and brightest young men, sent to die, for what?

The irony is that the military only takes healthy men.  WWI devastated all participating nations.  No country was left untouched from heavy loss of life.  Where would this world be today if these courageous men didn’t die?  What inventions and innovations never came to pass?

Weir is a master of economy and impact.  The least amount of words, no scene too long, for maximum impact.  I am a puddle.  I cannot bear the ending.

“The Road Warrior,” 1981, came on the heels of the underground success of “Mad Max.”  Both take place in the dusty post-apocalyptic, leather daddy future.  George Miller’s argument for weaning ourselves off oil dependence?

Leathered up.

Hmmm...

I think this movie is in the closet.

Norma Moriceau’s bondage-y costumes were eye-opening and unique to say the least, for the hyper-macho, violence buffet that’s served here.

“The Year of Living Dangerously,” 1982, Peter Weir’s tropical drama puts an ever-glistening Mel in the midst of political turmoil and a romantic triangle.  Costume Design by Terry Ryan.

Mid 60's suit will have to go.

Those aviators can stay.

Ah, that's better.

Love the pleat with vent in the back.

Man, he was handsome.

Even the poster is stylish and sexy. A throwback to vintage suspense thrillers.

Peter Weir is great at slow, taut, tension.  And Linda Hunt earned every ounce of Academy gold for her portrayal of Billy Kwan, a half-Chinese man.  She was a woman playing a man.  Maybe this sets a precedent of sorts for Glenn Close who plays a woman pretending to be a man in “Albert Nobbs” for this year’s Oscar race.

Dang, he was busy in the early 80’s!  I think he looked the best in these.  I hope he gets the help he needs and gets back to making great films.

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Justin Timberlake Creative Director at Callaway

25 Wednesday Jan 2012

Posted by Angie in Men

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Callaway, Callaway Golf Company, Golf, J.Lindeberg, Justin Timberlake, Original Penguin

As you might have guessed by now, I love sports.  An interest in sports and fashion is not mutually exclusive.  I even know how to play golf.  I had to learn when I started dating the husband.  With the December appointment of JT as Callaway Creative Director, yes, Creative Director, not just a face or a swing for the ad campaign, Callaway is gripping and ripping it, aiming for the tee.

He's no duffer. He has a 6 handicap. What's yours?

He’s in charge of their marketing strategy.  Prepare yourself for the onslaught: Golf is cool.  Hmmm.  I think Tiger made golf cool in the 90’s, and brought in a whole new generation that might have been put off by its country club snootiness.  Lot’s of surf/skate/ski guys and gals golf now.

I don’t think they have to waste time and $$ trying to make golf cool.  They simply need to design a better product.  I’m not talking about their equipment.  I’m talking clothes.

Booooooooorrrrriiiiiing!

Good God. They're trying, I guess. The print on the 1st and 3rd one from the left are probably the "fashion" polos. The fact that they've named them the Rothko polos makes me cringe. You think one of the fathers of abstract art wants to be associated with this lame attempt at being "arty?" On a golf polo, no less.

Seriously? What grown man, young or old, wants to wear shorts ABOVE his knees?

That "V" shaped logo on the belt buckle has got to go. I know it's an arrow, just like they have on their club heads and putters to line up your shot. But putting it right above your crotch, it's like saying V for vagina. Can't you do the old English C for Callaway?

They’re based in Carlsbad, CA.  In between LA and San Diego.  They have no excuse for being so old farty.  They are in the midst of surf/skate land.  This culture is about pattern (mostly yarn dye stripes) and graphics for tops.  And fit is key.  It can’t be a big box.  It needs to be a slimmer fit that still gives a guy (or gal) room to make a big swing.  Think 70’s fitted polos.

J. Lindeberg tried to meld the skate aesthetic with golf, with some success.

This is from JT's website announcing his Callaway appointment. Hello, PR person... Maybe you should put up a picture of him in Callaway gear instead. He's wearing J. Lindeberg here.

The best look for this new Lost Boys generation they’re trying to court is already being done by the Original Penguin people.  Why they haven’t done golf shirts before is beyond me.  They just need to change the fabric to a sweat-wicking, UV-blocking type, call it the sport version and BOOM, increase profits without extra design work.

The fit is, has always been, slim.

Yarn dye stripes. (As a side note, someone please get them to hire a decent stylist for this site! It's shockingly sad because they have great shirts.)

Volcom shorts. Note, covered knees.

They give it a modern twist with the diagonal seam in the back, and extra pocket (perfect for tees.)

Women’s is a whole other problem.  Let’s just say we don’t want to look like a bunch of middle-aged, overweight lesbians (not that there’s anything wrong with that!), we’d prefer looking like we do in everyday life, stylish and modern.

You can make golf clothes fun, fresh, with a nod to the past, and a modern twist.  Maybe JT can make it happen.  Maybe…

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Michael Pitt

23 Monday Jan 2012

Posted by Angie in Men

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Craig McDean, Michael Pitt

Let me first say, I love me some playoff football.  Weren’t those games awesome???  I was totally slack-jawed when Cundiff missed that field goal (!!), and so was the whole Ravens bench.  And a round of applause for the 49ers.  17 years since a playoff game.  And they almost won it.  I hate that friggin’ coin toss.  It’s so unfair, don’t you think?  Whoever wins gets possession and they only have to get to field goal range to punt it in for the win.  Stupid.

So, I’ve had a little testosterone fix, here’s something for the guys…

He’s got the look.  The new look in men’s hair.  Who’d figure Jimmy Darmody- style star.  I just hope that young and older alike will stop with the beadhead comb-over that’s been stubbornly keeping you guys from looking your best.

Why wouldn't you want to look like him? Photo: Craig McDean

An effortless cool. Photo: Craig McDean.

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Hollywood and the Ivy Look

12 Thursday Jan 2012

Posted by Angie in 1950's, 1960's, Books, Men

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Anthony Perkins, Hollywood and the Ivy Look, Paul Newman, Steve McQueen

Not to be confused with Blue Ivy, mini Beyonce.

This is a new book from Reel Art that tracks the satorial influence of preppies on hipsters from 1956 to 1965.

Anthony Perkins. Classic clothes always look good.

So strange to think of McQueen's style as preppie, but i guess it was in this decade. He's still the man.

Paul Newman was really fine, wasn't he?

http://www.reelartpress.com/catalog/edition/43/hollywood-and-the-ivy-look

 

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2011 Award Season is under way

26 Monday Dec 2011

Posted by Angie in 1910's, 1920's, 1930's, 1940's, 1950's, 1960's, 1970's, 1990's, Men, stuff to see, Women

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Arianne Phillips, David Fincher, Los Angeles Times

I’m SO behind in reading my papers.  But I’d be remiss for not mentioning Dec. 18th, LA Times Image Section.  Lots of great articles on this year’s crop of exciting costumes.

On David Fincher’s “Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.”

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-dragon-tattoo-20111218,0,7503394.story

On the surge in 20’s inspirations, “The Artist,” and Baz Luhrmann’s “The Great Gatsby.”

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-artist-20111218,0,6082131.story

Arianne Phillips talks about “W.E.” and the work remaking Wallis Simpson’s stunning wardrobe.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-phillips-20111218,0,7127321.story

Costume Design as part of building a character.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-honorable-20111218,0,6699626.story

Menswear from this season’s films.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-mens-styles-20111218,0,7403329.story

This just illustrates how little time I have to actually go see movies!!!  Oy.  You single childless people go frolic carefree into the night and see them for me!

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FAVES, no particular order

Directed by James Ivory, Costume Design Jenny Beavan, 1985

Directed by Jack Clayton, Costume Design Theoni V. Aldredge, 1974

Directed by Sally Potter, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1992

Direct by Arthur Penn, Costume Design Theadora Van Runkle, 1967

Directed by Iain Softley, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1997

Directed by Wong Kar Wai, Costume Design William Chang, 2000

Directed by Paul Thomas Anderson, Costume Design Mark Bridges, 2007

Directed by Cary Joji Fukanaga, Costume Design Michael O'Connor 2011

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