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Category Archives: Women

Fresh Dressed

05 Saturday Sep 2015

Posted by Angie in Men, stuff to see, Women

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1970's, 1980's, Addidas, B-boys, Bronx, Brooklyn, Fresh, Fresh Dressed, gold chains, Harlem, Hip-Hop, Kangol, Queens, Rap, Rappers

CNN Films is delving into the Rap/style game with Fresh Dressed, a doc on the history of Hip-Hop fashion.

Kangol, gold chains, Addidas. Still dope.

Kangol, gold chains, and Addidas. Still dope.

Fresh Dressed

Unfortunately you can’t stream the whole thing but you can watch it as a live stream when they air it on CNN.

If vintage Hip-Hop is your thing, and you haven’t seen Wild Style (not the Lego chick), then you must watch it NOW. You can stream it on Netflix. No Netflix? You can visit their site for a taste.

A landmark doc on Hip-Hop.

A landmark doc on Hip-Hop.

Wild Style

Peace out!

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L’Avventura

13 Thursday Sep 2012

Posted by Angie in 1950's, Men, Women

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Gabriele Ferzetti, L'Avventura, Lea Massari, Michelangelo Antonioni, Monica Vitti, post war Italy

Michelangelo Antonioni’s, “L’Avventura,” was booed at it’s first screening at Cannes, in 1959. Such is the reaction to all things new and groundbreaking. The second screening fared much better, it was hailed as a genius work of art.

Anna, her boyfriend, Sandro, and best friend Claudia, go for a lovely boat ride one summer. Anna goes missing, and the boating party tries in vain to find her. Sandro and Claudia bond over the incident and start romantically seeing each other. Anna is never found, which begs the question, what happened to her? Which Antonioni never answers. It’s an art film. No tidy endings, people. It’s more like a meditation on love, life, and the transitory nature of it.

Anna’s father tells her Sandro will never marry her. Don’t you love his polka dot tie? Lea Massari and Renzo Ricci.

Anna’s simple dress is perfect for Spring/Summer. I love that there’s two ties at the waist. Monica Vitti and Lea Massari.

Anna fears losing Sandro, but simultaneously feels numb in her surroundings. This might reflect an Italian post-war sensibility. Intense feelings towards comforting emotions like love, but a numb psyche as a result of the recent WWII horrors, and unable to fully enjoy emotions like love.

Anna, Sandro, and Claudia embark on a short cruise.

l'avventura Monica Vitti

Love the deep V back of Claudia’s, (Monica Vitti) swimsuit.

l' avventura Italian fisherman's sweater

Love this Italian fisherman’s sweater.

l'avventura Lea Massari Gabriele Ferzetti

Anna has misgivings about getting married to Sandro. She wants him but at the same time, would be fine without him. She’s cornfused. This is the last we see of her.

Anna goes missing. Claudia, Sandro, and their friend Corrado stay on the island to continue searching for her. Claudia and Sandro develop an attraction to each other.

L'avventura Esmeralda Ruspoli Leilo Luttazzi Dominique Blanchar

This could be a Prada ad. Old Italian money + whimsy.

l'avventura 10

Antonioni is a master at framing. If I were a painter or photographer/DP, I’d be totally inspired by him.

l' avventura men's scarves

A study in Italian working-class men’s scarves and layering.

l' avventura Monica Vitti

Monica Vitti in repose. I love her shoes and that her sweater is not super fitted, but more blouse-like.

l' avventura Monica Vitti

It looks even better with a great handbag.

l' avventura Monica Vitti

Claudia, Monica Vitti, feels guilt for falling for Sandro. The ocean in the background remind you of Anna’s disappearance.

l' avventura

Antonioni goes out of his way to inject this little scene. This girl, Gloria Perkins, causes a near riot by walking around the city with a ripped side seam, exposing her undies and garter. The reporter Sandro sought out, explains it’s all a ruse to get some attention for herself and maybe a sucker willing to shell out big bucks to “date” her. Is Antonioni commenting on modern love being merely a transaction?

l'avventura monica vitti

I like that the ruffles are arranged on the chair framing Monica. It makes the frame more dynamic.

L'avventura Monica Vitti Esmeralda Ruspoli

Claudia dons one of Patrizia’s wigs, and looks like a certain missing girl.

L'avventura Monica Vitti

Polka dot suit + scarf. Serious, but fun.

L'avventura Monica Vitti

Interesting framing. Claudia’s double layered dress is too. Don’t see it being much for the masses though.

L'avventura Monica Vitti Gabriele Ferzetti

The last shot captures the theme of loneliness in love. Claudia fell in love with Sandro, then felt tremendous guilt for not wanting to find Anna. Sandro thinks he loves Claudia, but then gives in to his lust and hooks up with Gloria. Romantic love is difficult and complex and never is the answer to all of life’s problems. Claudia and Sandro are together but surrounded by emptiness.

Empty, desolate landscapes in natural and urban settings underscore the rudderless and lonely feelings of modern life.

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Contempt

17 Tuesday Jul 2012

Posted by Angie in 1960's, Men, Women

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Brigitte Bardot, Contempt, Jack Palance, Jean-Luc Godard, Michel Piccoli

Jean-Luc Godard’s, “Contempt,” 1963, features the ever-gorgeous Brigitte Bardot and Michel Piccoli, as Camille and Paul Javal.  Paul is rewriting a film adaptation of Homer’s, The Odyssey, for producer Jeremy Prokosch, Jack Palance, and directed by none other than Fritz Lang (playing himself).  Paul sells out his writer’s integrity by trying to make it more commercial and his wife’s affection by basically handing her to Prokosch.

Ok, this has nothing to do with fashion, but isn’t Fritz’s monocle gangsta? Fritz Lang.

Here’s Paul saying, “No, you ride with him, I’ll take a cab.”  You can figure out the rest. Love Brigitte’s super wide headband. Brigitte Bardot, Michel Piccoli, and Jack Palance in the car.

Camille practices being a seductress. Playful or is it Godard’s comment on how easily we are seduced by her? Brigitte Bardot.

Pouty, sexy Brigitte Bardot.

A cute shot of her in a hat. Brigitte Bardot.

Here she is looking soooo different in a black wig. Brigitte Bardot.

On a trip to Capri Paul tells Camille to go on without him, again. Really? It’s sun-dappled Capri, your wife looks like Brigitte Bardot and you’re telling her to go have fun with another guy?

I love the full skirt with the pink pullover, demure, but on her, super sexy. Brigitte Bardot.

I’ve read that Bardot’s hair is the most referenced hair by uber hair stylists. The long bangs (fringe), volume on top, long, thick, somewhat bedroom tousled, is pretty much seen every season and in countless editorial shoots.

Brigitte Bardot.

Camille leaves Paul for Prokosch (Jack Palance?) Only in the movies.  Let’s just say it ends badly.

Brigitte Bardot and Jack Palance.

Film poster. From IMDB.

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Vivre sa Vie

16 Monday Jul 2012

Posted by Angie in 1960's, Women

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1960's Paris, Anna Karina, Jean-Luc Godard, Nana, Vivre Sa Vie

Jean-Luc Godard’s ,”Vivre Sa Vie,” 1962, Anna Karina, plays Nana, a down-on-her-luck aspiring actress who falls prey to the dangers of prostitution: moral, psychological, and physical turmoil.

Could be a Chanel ad if it were not so melancholy. Anna Karina.

Her bob and black and white outfits remind one of Uma Thurman’s Mia character in “Pulp Fiction.” Anna Karina.

The prim ruffled shirt, cardigan and skirt belie her new profession. Anna Karina.

Anna Karina.

The fur-trimmed coat is lovely. Anna Karina.

Choosing to shoot in black and white adds to the starkness of Nana’s reality.  At once, she looks innocent and deeply repentant.  Anna Karina.

Jean-Luc Godard, 1962.

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A Woman is a Woman

15 Sunday Jul 2012

Posted by Angie in 1960's, Women

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A Woman is a Woman, Anna Karina, Jean-Luc Godard, women's sailor top

Jean-Luc Godard’s “A Woman is a Woman,” 1961, is his surprisingly light-hearted stab at romantic comedy/musical, but also trying to simultaneously subvert the genre.  Strippers having babies out of wedlock aren’t exactly subjects of bouncy Hollywood musicals.

Angela, his real-life wife Anna Karina, is a stripper who wants to have a baby.  Her boyfriend Emile doesn’t, but ridiculously suggests that she uses his friend Alfred, JP Belmondo, do the job.

Don’t know if it’s a “Singing in the Rain” reference with the umbrella (since it’s not raining), regardless it’s a nice pop of color. Anna Karina.

The white trench, black gloves, and red updo, tough and unexpectedly chic. Anna Karina.

Love that she has red tights, too.

She changes into her stripper costume. Anna Karina.

She does a little song. Anna Karina.

I love the thought of the sailor top as a jacket thrown over something super femme like this bustier. Anna Karina.

Her hair and makeup are super sweet. Anna Karina.

“A Woman is a Woman,” poster. Jean-Luc Godard.

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Anna Karenina

01 Sunday Jul 2012

Posted by Angie in 1800's, Women

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Anna Karenina, Banana Republic, Jacqueline Durran, Joe Wright, Keira Knightley, Leo Tolstoy

With the success of their, “Mad Men,” inspired collection, Banana Republic brought on Jacqueline Durran, costume designer for the upcoming, “Anna Karenina,” to design a capsule collection for Holiday 2012.

The designs will feature 19th century, Russian touches for both apparel and accessories, for men and women. The film once again pairs director Joe Wright with Keira Knightley.  Are you dying!!!  I LOVED his version of P&P.  I hope they go bold.  I read there will be velvet, faux fur, and lace.  Sounds perfect for Holiday.  Great choice Banana.

So retail is FINALLY (!) timing collections with the release of the movies by which it’s inspired.  FINALLY.  Before a movie would come out, designers would swoon, and you’d see the influence six months to a year later.  Now they’re doing strategic partnerships that give valuable PR to the films and the retail establishment since films are promoted many months ahead of its release date.

I want that hat!  And that aubergine skirt color offset by the white and gray fur, love it!  It looks like a painting.

So much fun you can have designing the costume jewelry from this era.

They better have some great wool coats, nipped in at the waist, and leather gloves.  It looks FANTASTIC!  It’s one of my favorite books, and I can’t wait.

Check out the trailer:

http://focusfeatures.com/video/anna_karenina_trailer

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Colleen Atwood for HSN

22 Friday Jun 2012

Posted by Angie in Accessories, Women

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Charlize Theron, Colleen Atwood, Home Shopping Network, Snow White and the Huntsman

She’s done some of the most most memorable costumes in recent film history, “Edward Scissorhands,” “Alice in Wonderland,” and “Chicago,” to name a few on her storied resume.

http://www.latimes.com/entertainment/news/la-ca-snow-white-side-20120520,0,1149832.story

And now, with the raves she’s getting for “Snow White,” a collection with HSN.  The video at the top is a real treat for you film costume fans!

http://www.hsn.com/snow-white-and-the-h/atwood-by-colleen-atwood_c-fl_a-9233_xc.aspx?rid=2683

While clothes themselves are not my thing, it’s good to see that these designers can parlay their film work into design work for the masses.  Janie Bryant (Mad Men) and her collaboration with Banana Republic is another recent pairing.

I was expecting to see jewelry in the HSN collection, weren’t you?  The costumes were great, of course, but the medieval, sinister jewelry really stood out to me.  Maybe Colleen didn’t design it, or maybe HSN only wanted her to design clothes based on the movie.  Whatever the reason, opportunity lost, I think for HSN.  I sure it’ll inspire Chrome Hearts, Roxanne Assoulin, or Tom Binns.

Love the chains and the fingertip talon ring.

More fingertip talon rings.

Close-up on one of Ravenna’s costumes.  The snake metalwork is wicked.

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Everlane

20 Wednesday Jun 2012

Posted by Angie in stuff to do, Women

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Everlane, t-shirt

Is a $50 t-shirt worth $50?  Granted, it’s lighter, softer, maybe has a more flattering cut or neckline, but no.  It ain’t even close to being worth $50, even made here.  Everlane makes tees in super soft supima cotton, and because they have no brick & mortar stores, no sales people, there’s no overhead, and yes, they pass the savings onto you.

The only downside is that you can’t go try these puppies on, but hey, it’s a frickin’ t-shirt.  I’m sure it’ll fit fine.

Register and earn points towards a free tee.

http://www.everlane.com

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Belle de Jour

16 Friday Mar 2012

Posted by Angie in 1960's, Women

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Belle de Jour, Catherine Deneuve, Genvieve Page, Jean Sorel, Luis Bunel, Michel

Coincidences abound. “Belle de Jour,” was in my queue and I had just read about how popular the BDSM book, 50 Shades of Grey, was with the soccer mom set. It’s was written by a British former television exec, and mother of two. And the fact that a real New Jersey soccer mom just got busted for being a madam at a high class brothel in New York. What is going on, ladies? I don’t know how you have the energy for sex, much less kinky sex? It seems like SO much work to me.

Soccer mom madam: http://articles.nydailynews.com/2012-03-11/news/31144205_1_prostitution-ring-defense-lawyer-surrenders

50 Shades of Grey: http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/jacketcopy/2012/03/bestselling-mommy-porn-50-shades-of-gray-.html

Anyhoo, here it is and I admit, film geek that I am, have not seen it until now. Always heard about it, admired Bunel’s work, but never saw it. Maybe the subject matter was a little to risque to be covered in school. It was also tied up in a legal mess and re-released theatrically in 1994, by Miramax Zoe. My limited French translated “Belle de Jour” as beauty of the day, which I thought was a reference to her working in a brothel. But it’s actually a reference to a day lily, which the French call belle de jour, a flower that only blooms during the day, and Severine only works during the day. But I think both interpretations work.

They start riding in a coach (a symbol of the rigid social class rules?), then Pierre gets mad at Severine, ties her up...

... and lets the men have at her.

Cut to her in bed, you realize she's just fantasizing. Isn't she GORGEOUS. It's really not fair.

There’s a quick cut and you get a glimpse of Severine in a questionable circumstance when’s she’s about 10 or 11. Maybe that’s why she escapes into her fantasies. Her husband comments that she’ll never grow up, she comes off childlike in many ways.

Love her tennis outfit. Not really made for playing.

Fab, fab, fab. YSL. Gimme. Now. And those Roger Vivier buckle shoes.

Her upper class clothes set her apart from the other girls. Love her chain belt.

So fantastic. The hat, the oversize glasses, the patent leather trench.

Here's a better shot of the trench.

The grey knit dress would be great for spring. Imagine it in white and pale blue with some striped espadrilles.

She agrees to participate in a stranger's yearly ritual. She dons a full length black veil. I think this part is another one of her fantasies.

An overt reference to "Breathless." This film is almost its opposite. A man selling the Hearld Tribune, instead of a woman, to an older, Belmondo-type gangster. Where "Breathless" is light, "Belle de Jour" is dark. Jean Seberg a pixie-haired, American bohemian, Catherine Deneuve, long-haired, proper French aristocrat. Seberg is free and independent, Deneuve repressed and trapped in her role.

These knitted shifts look so comfy and perfect for spring. Since they're A-line, they'd still great if you gain a couple pounds.

LOVE her in this. The satiny spread collar, the gold cuff links, and super fab hair.

...And the back. If only I knew how to do this French twist + bun and if only my hair would stay up!

When I read that Yves Saint Laurent provided her clothes, I was excited, but was disappointed that they’re aren’t that many wardrobe changes! WTF Yves! She was his muse and the face of his cosmetics line in the 70’s.

Severine gets involved with a gangster, and he shoots Pierre in a jealous rage. Pierre ends up blind and paralyzed. His friend Mr. Husson, knows what Severine’s been up to, and tells her that he is going to tell Pierre. Her actions have done irreparable damage to Pierre and their marriage. Only blinded, Pierre sees his wife for what she truly is. She has always withheld sex from him, and now he’s been deprived of his virility forever. Mr. Husson leaves, and Severine goes back to check on Pierre. She sits, then sees him take off his glasses and walk.

This ending is ambiguous, is she fantasizing? Or was Pierre being injured a fantasy? Was the whole thing a fantasy? I think her mind is fleeing reality by fantasizing that everything is OK, that Pierre is fine, and they’re the same as they were before. The film shows the gangsters in their element without Severine around, so I think Bunel is saying they are real.

Directed by Luis Bunel, 1967.

What a trip! Check it out.

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Hedi Slimane in at YSL

07 Wednesday Mar 2012

Posted by Angie in Contemporary/Present Day, Women

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Hedi Slimane, Yves Saint Laurent

Stefano Pilati out after eight years.  While a great designer, and former assistant to Tom Ford, Pilati never created that lust for a brand as Tom Ford did.  That itself is a tall order and Stefano did make some lovely clothes and accessories during his tenure.

In contrast, Slimane’s time at Dior Homme was earth-shaking.  Men and women wanted those clothes.  Karl Lagerfeld is said to have lost all the weight so he could fit into the Dior Homme pants.  I don’t recall anything like it other than the crush of Helmut Lang’s first few years on the scene.

Hedi Slimane never intended to be a fashion designer. Photography was his first love.

Dior Homme, widely coveted. A mix of rock n' roll, high fashion and punk.

He’ll still work on his photography: http://www.hedislimane.com/

The iconic (overused, but this time it's appropriate) YSL Le smoking suit.

Seems like a natural fit in hindsight.  So curious to see what he’ll come up with for the ladies!  I’m guessing some overt rock n’ roll sex covered up in well-tailored trousers and jackets.

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FAVES, no particular order

Directed by James Ivory, Costume Design Jenny Beavan, 1985

Directed by Jack Clayton, Costume Design Theoni V. Aldredge, 1974

Directed by Sally Potter, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1992

Direct by Arthur Penn, Costume Design Theadora Van Runkle, 1967

Directed by Iain Softley, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1997

Directed by Wong Kar Wai, Costume Design William Chang, 2000

Directed by Paul Thomas Anderson, Costume Design Mark Bridges, 2007

Directed by Cary Joji Fukanaga, Costume Design Michael O'Connor 2011

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