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Category Archives: Women

Midnight in Paris

06 Tuesday Mar 2012

Posted by Angie in 1920's, Contemporary/Present Day, Women

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Carla Bruni, Carla Bruni Sarkozy, Marion Cotillard, Midnight in Paris, Rachel McAdams

Doncha just love Paris?  I do.  And I love that Woody Allen opens the movie with shot after idyllic shot of Paris and Parisians doing what they do best, being nonchalantly Parisian, even in the rain.  And getting some $$ and tax breaks for productions that shoot there makes it even better for the producers.

Costume Designer Sonia Grande not only did sumptuous work on the 20’s costumes, but gave Rachel McAdams a rich bitch, casual sexiness.  I apologize for some open-mouth shots, but it was the best frame for the look.

Shirtdress with low-slung belt and oversize bag.

The group at Versailles. Another shirtdress with wedges. Perfect for a hot day.

The group with tour guide, a.k.a. Carla Bruni Sarkozy (The French First Lady), love her! Loved her when she was a supermodel. And don't you love her unstructured blazer?

Zelda's lace dress details. I love the geometric shapes with the lace.

Josephine Baker shaking it. Everyone looks fab, from the extras to the stars.

Chanel jacket thrown over a loose, featherweight tee.

Here's the whole look with belt and bag.

Simple beading, simple sheath, big impact.

This is a tough dress. It could look too precious. But slip into some sexy heels and you can make it work.

Carla Bruni Sarkozy again, lovely.

Quintessential flapper dress. This is why the 20's continues to inspire. It's luxury (silks, beading, feathers) + comfort (loose) + sexy (short hemlines).

I have a fantasy about taking the little guy on a Parisian holiday, eating, running through the gardens at Versailles, climbing the Effiel Tower, but honestly?  He’d tear the place apart.  But I can watch movies until he gets old enough.

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Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2012

01 Thursday Mar 2012

Posted by Angie in Runway Inspiration, Women

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Ann Demeulemeester

If she were a contestant on “Project Runway,” she’d lose.  Too much black.  Too much leather.  One note, not enough variety.  What’s this girl going to wear to dinner?  Ann says, F**k you.  I love black, leather, and boots.  And that’s what this girl is going to wear anywhere.  If someone gives her crap- who are we kidding.  They wouldn’t dare.

Black on black, with more black, please. It's practical for winter, isn't it? Gloves and boots. Toasty. Not to mention, hot. You look like you mean business. Marcus Tondo/GoRunway.com.

Why don't women wear her on the red carpet? The dresses this year were such a bore. Marcus Tondo/GoRunway.com.

The sleeves, the extreme shortness, love it. Marcus Tondo/GoRunway.com.

I love that they put leather pants under it. Marcus Tondo/GoRunway.com.

She’s a badass.

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Dries Van Noten Fall 2012

29 Wednesday Feb 2012

Posted by Angie in Runway Inspiration, Women

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Dries Van Noten

The Dutch were among the first Europeans to start trading with the Japanese.  The exchange of influences flowed both ways.  The Japanese were exposed to technological advances and the Dutch admired Japanese art.  Van Gogh was heavily influenced by Japanese woodblock prints, ukiyo-e.  I always thought a collection combining the Dutch penchant for the avantgarde + japanese art (woodblocks, painting, textiles) would be soooo fantastic, and now it’s happened.

An avantgarde sack coat but with Oriental embroidery on one side. It could work with jeans or a shift with tights. Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com.

Such bright, vivid colors for fall. Great layering piece. Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com.

Who doesn't want this coat? Isn't it so much better than boring 'ol gray wool? Look at the small details. The solid inside lapel. The banding at the bottom. Look at the model walking away behind her. The back has a solid on one side, print on the other. It's really amazing. Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com.

Repeated prints but in an unexpected way. Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com.

I looooooove this top. It's like he's taken part of a Japanese painting and blown it up to the extreme until it's like abstract art. Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com.

I love that this has an Japanese feeling (kimono top) but also looks like it's borrowing from traditional Dutch peasant clothing (the banding suggests an apron). Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com.

He’s a master.  He always has great prints and different cuts for pants and jackets.  But never showy or overblown, always subtle, and always in the most sumptuous fabrics.  Great ideas for us to try in our (budget) wardrobes, bright prints, turtlenecks with tunics, wide leg pants, and sack coats.  Why wait for next winter.  Do it now!

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NYC Fall 2012

17 Friday Feb 2012

Posted by Angie in Contemporary/Present Day, Runway Inspiration, Women

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Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Lacoste, Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, Rodarte, Victoria Beckham

The end of an EPIC week in NYC.  Linsanity!!!  Don’t you love it???  Who would’ve thunk a Asian-American Harvard grad schooling Kobe… On the basketball court?  I can’t speak for all Asian-Americans but it’s almost like a cathartic release from a lifetime of belittling and being dismissed.

Oh, and NY fashion week just ended.

Love the winter white and geometric layers. Proenza Schouler. Photo: Monica Feudi / Feudiguaineri.com.

I love her take on Mod. Texture + metallics make it fresh. Victoria, Victoria Beckham. Photo: Courtesy of Victoria, Victoria Beckham.

A subtle graphic print. Photo: Courtesy of Victoria, Victoria Beckham.

Subdued but contrasty colors. Photo: Courtesy of Victoria, Victoria Beckham.

Sporty winter whites, Lacoste-style. I was a huge Lacoste fan when Christopher Lemaire was head designer. All the good stuff was never sold here, sigh. It was just so French and sporty. Loved it. But the new guy, Felipe Oliveira Baptista, is turning out fine stuff too. Are these tights a must-have, or what? Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com.

Apres-ski with slouchy boots. I'm taking notes for my shopping list. Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com.

I love the loose, clean crewneck top. Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com.

Marc Jacobs never disappoints. Yes, this is high fashion, and it's a little out there for going to a movie, but look at the great layering for inspiration. High-collared, almost Victorian collar, with a jumper on top, and capri pants on bottom. Topped off with a fantastically embellished wool coat and statement hat. Photo: Marcus Tondo / GoRunway.com.

A scarf becomes a caplet of sorts with a brooch or if you can find a ginormous safety pin like this one. Photo: Marcus Tondo / GoRunway.com.

Speaking of caplets, one worn over a coat. Photo: Marcus Tondo / GoRunway.com.

I don't know why I like this super-stuffed scarf look. Maybe it's because I'm from Alaska? Photo: Marcus Tondo / GoRunway.com.

So, we go from HUGE fuzzy raver hats to this. Super clean n' chic. Marc by Marc Jacobs. Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com.

I love the demure printed dress with doc marten like boots. Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com.

In a sea of coats, I think this was one of the best. You could almost picture Joan Crawford wearing it (with a turban.) Rodarte. Photo: Monica Feudi / feudiguaineri.com.

I took issue with Lagerfeld's detatchable collars, but I like these. They're more like jewelry. Rodarte. Photo: Monica Feudi / feudiguaineri.com.

I love the ladylike lace with this geometric print. Photo: Monica Feudi / feudiguaineri.com.

Another nice detatchable collar. Photo: Monica Feudi / feudiguaineri.com.

Of course there were scores of shows (I can’t click through all of them my dears, I have a small child to feed), but these are a few things that I think translate well to spicing up everyday life.

Try it now, why wait for next winter?  The retail calendar is stupid.  You should be able to buy it when you see it.  Not a year from now.  Can’t we bring production + delivery into the 21st century?

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Boutonnieres

09 Thursday Feb 2012

Posted by Angie in Accessories, Men

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boutonnieres, buttonhole pins, lapel pins

Or lapel pin, or buttonhole pin, anyway you say it, a great accessory opportunity for both men and women.

Clark Gable was a fan.

Carmelo Anthony at the Versace show last year.

http://www.latimesmagazine.com/2012/02/image-xy-factor-buttonholes-in-bloom.html

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Black Swan

07 Tuesday Feb 2012

Posted by Angie in Contemporary/Present Day, Women

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Amy Westcott, Black Swan, Darren Aronofsky, Rodarte

First let me say… Was the Superbowl great or what?  I’m just glad it wasn’t a blowout.  Last week, I heard the sports books in Vegas had the Patriots by 3, but that lots of Giants fans placed future bets at 3 1/2 Giants, and if the Giants won by that, Vegas would be in deep sh*t.  So of course, I took that 3 1/2 Giants bet against the husband, and got to gloat and do a little dance when Brady’s Hail Mary was denied.  He was asleep during their last match up, woke up right after Tyree made that historic and unbelievable catch.  Probably because I was yelling at the TV.  I was pulling for the Giants then, too.  But man, a sniper like shot from Manning between two defenders to Manningham, who kept his feet in and held onto the rock, all in a millisecond.  Aaaah… That’s the stuff…

But enough about football, let’s talk tutus!

There was some back-and-forth between the Costume Designer Amy Westcott and the Rodarte girls, Kate and Laura Mulleavy.  Westcott was put-off by the Mulleavys complaining that they were not eligible for nomination, even though they only designed seven ballet tutus for the film, Westcott the rest of the costumes.  Neither received an Academy Award nomination for their work but the Mulleavys parlayed their experience in “Black Swan” into upcoming projects such as costume design for LA Opera’s Don Giovanni.

I just watched it, and I must say, watching something outside of the award season hype is very sobering.  Or maybe the experience of watching it on my computer and not in a darkened theater made it less award-worthy?  In any case, what was the big deal about this film?  The racy girl-on-girl scene?  Really?  In this day and age porn is ubiquitous.  So what?  The fact that it’s two famous chicks getting it on?  Again, in sex tape land, who cares?

I’m not saying it’s bad.  It’s a psychological drama, not some kinky horror film that it was hyped to be.  I thought it was OK.  The black swan/white swan is your classic duality in nature.  We all have darkness and light.  The ballet world is catty and competitive.  What industry is not?  Is she losing her mind?  Maybe.  So again, I thought it was OK, well made for sure, but not really fresh.

But Westcott’s costumes are a study in elegant casual dressing. Lots of featherweight knits, layered over bodysuits and leggings.

Featherweight shrug. I want it!

I love the back.

The soft pastels really add to the look.

Beautiful evening gown.

The back.

This featherweight turtleneck is great. You can wear a colorful cami under it to spice it up.

There are lots of tracking shots behind her. I like how this is framed. She's always in light or white colors. The others in black or dark.

Great layering.

I like this look because it's both delicate and athletic. And that's what dancers are, essentially.

Another great shrug and bodysuit combo. Look at that great yarn detail on the bust, and the rope-like effect of the yarn on the straps and edge trim. This looks like it's from a Rodarte collection. But who knows?

The back. Love it!

A Rodarte bodice and tutu for the white swan. 13 layers of tulle jutting straight out. All hand sewn.

A Rodarte tutu for the black swan.

A better view.

Very gothic.

The makeup on her hands is a small but strong detail.

Nina finally letting go and becoming the black swan. I love the black dripping down her tights.

Her full transformation.

Better shot of the white swan bodice. Can I say it's really not fair that Natalie looks better with no makeup on?

Lots of textures.

Given all the press for the tutus, Aronofsky shot a lot of close-ups of Natalie. You barely get a full view of the tutus.

Nina finishes the performance of her life.

You know a film has influenced you when you want to go out and buy the look.  I will be on the hunt for featherweight shrugs.  I don’t care that this is from last year.  It looks comfy and feminine.

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2011 Award Season is under way

26 Monday Dec 2011

Posted by Angie in 1910's, 1920's, 1930's, 1940's, 1950's, 1960's, 1970's, 1990's, Men, stuff to see, Women

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Arianne Phillips, David Fincher, Los Angeles Times

I’m SO behind in reading my papers.  But I’d be remiss for not mentioning Dec. 18th, LA Times Image Section.  Lots of great articles on this year’s crop of exciting costumes.

On David Fincher’s “Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.”

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-dragon-tattoo-20111218,0,7503394.story

On the surge in 20’s inspirations, “The Artist,” and Baz Luhrmann’s “The Great Gatsby.”

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-artist-20111218,0,6082131.story

Arianne Phillips talks about “W.E.” and the work remaking Wallis Simpson’s stunning wardrobe.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-phillips-20111218,0,7127321.story

Costume Design as part of building a character.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-honorable-20111218,0,6699626.story

Menswear from this season’s films.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-mens-styles-20111218,0,7403329.story

This just illustrates how little time I have to actually go see movies!!!  Oy.  You single childless people go frolic carefree into the night and see them for me!

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Garden inspiration

20 Tuesday Dec 2011

Posted by Angie in Accessories

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Fuchsia

Walking around the botanical gardens, something we can still do in southern California, made me think of jewelry.

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Wouldn’t these make great earrings or pendants? Scaled down a bit, in gold or platinum, maybe an art nouveau feel? Maybe a charm for a handbag?

20111220-121354.jpg

I thought this would make a lovely brooch or something for hair like a clip, barrette, or pin.

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In the Mood for Love

15 Thursday Dec 2011

Posted by Angie in 1960's, Men, Women

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Christopher Doyle, Maggie Cheung, Tony Leung Chiu-Wai, William Chang, Wong Kar-wai

Hong Kong, 1962. Mr. Chow, Tony Leung Chiu Wai, and Mrs. Chan, Maggie Cheung are neighbors in a noisy Hong Kong apartment building.  Their spouses work late, or are out of town a lot so naturally they start spending time with each other.  It becomes painfully obvious to them that their spouses are having an affair.  Saddened, but self-righteous, they vow not to be like their cheatin’ spouses.  They never consummate their love for each other, just luxuriate in the sexual tension.

I think this is Wong Kar-Wai‘s best film.  What can I say?  I’m a sucker for a plot.  With music I love a great hook and melody, too.  I guess I’m a traditionalist.  The story moves slowly, deliberately, to its unrequited end.

It’s beautifully, cleverly shot by oft-imitated, hugely influential Christopher Doyle (who also had a mad crush on Maggie Cheung.)  Atmospheric without being indulgent.  OK maybe a few cliches like, slow mo shots of the rain, and billowing smoke.  But with him behind the camera, it feels fresh.  Many shots from behind objects, around corners, through windows, over shoulders, as if we’re spying on them.  Gives their relationship an illicit feel.

But let’s talk about the clothes!  My God watching Maggie Cheung makes me wanna diet.  She’s so tall and slim, everything looks divine on her.  And let’s not leave out Tong Leung.  First of all, what a handsome guy.  And second of all, putting him in the 60’s suits and ties really does it for me.  This was the “Mad Men” look more than a decade before “Mad Men” with a dash of Hong Kong flavor.

Love the print on this cheongsam.

See? Put that cupcake down if you ever want to look this thin.

The first furtive glance between them.

Great vintage tie.

I'm not sure if this is a knit or woven pattern, but I love it. Sort of a vertical Missoni. Notice the front of the collar is black.

Notice the back of the collar flows into the bodice. They matched it to the back like wallpaper.

Is she not the chicest secretary ever?

Couldn't get a good shot of his tie. But you get the idea.

Again, not sure if this is a knit or woven pattern. I think probably a woven, since they're usually made from wovens. In any case, I love the pattern.

Here's a longer shot.

Lime green! So fresh.

Another great tie.

Even her older boss has a great tie. Aren't these the best widths? Not too skinny, not too fat.

First of all, I love stripes, so this had me at first look. Secondly, it's sheer. Something different.

They cross paths, avert their eyes. Violins sing longingly in the background.  Nat King Cole croons in Spanish, gives it a European feel.  The music sounds romantic, sultry when they’re together, plaintive and melancholy when only one of them is seen.  The instrumental music also reminds me of the music in “Room with a View” when Lucy, Charlotte and Ms. Lavish walk around Florence.  Even the stuccoed buildings look vaguely Italian.

I love men in a light grey suit, don't you? With a pocket square, no less.

Together, alone.

She's helping him write a martial arts serial. She gets stuck inside his apartment while the noisy neighbors play mah jong in the common area. She dare not leave or everyone will know what they're (not) up to.

They role play. He pretends to be her husband, she "confronts" him about his mistress. Another great tie.

Beautiful, graphic, floral.

Even better with the red coat.

Just a great shot.

I love that this is a solid, but with a bit of floral detail at the edge. Unexpected and lovely.

This to me is the shot that sums up the movie. They are waiting out the storm in their marriages, taking comfort with each other. She can't even bring herself to use his umbrella (accepting him) for fear of others gossiping (submissive to society's rules.)

A classic!  Costume design by William Chang.  This dude also edited it and did the production design (unless there are three different William Changs working on this.)  That explains the consistency of the look of the film.  But no one thinks about William Chang, only how wonderful this Wong Kar Wai film is.

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The Wings of the Dove

04 Sunday Dec 2011

Posted by Angie in 1910's, Men, Women

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1910's fashions, Alison Elliot, Belle Epoque, Helena Bonham Carter, Henry James, Iain Softley, Linus Roache, Sandy Powell

Based on the Henry James novel of the same name, “The Wings of the Dove,” directed by Iain Softley, 1997, tells the tale of a love triangle between Kate, Helena Bonham Carter, Merton, Linus Roache, and Millie, Alison Elliot.  The impeccable costumes were designed by powerhouse, Sandy Powell.

The year is 1910, and the London elite clothed in the oriental-inspired finery by Paul Poiret, luxuriate in peace, before World War I befalls Europe.  Exoticism abounds, rich colors, Art Nouveau influences, feminine lines, softness are the trends of the day.

Kate with her patron, Aunt Maude, primping her for a society party. Charlotte Rampling and Helena in costume, the heart stops.

Beautiful lace embellishments and layers make for a comfortable but suitable night look.

Here's the back.

Maybe I'm just a minimalist at heart, but I love her dressing gown and long flowing hair as an evening look.

Love the angled jacket hem.

How fun is this hat?!

From the side, the feathers are fab.

Jewel tones and lux fabrics. Kate's (Helena's) jacket doesn't look like much sitting down. But wait...

Helena's stunning peacock jacket from behind.

Love the shoulder strap detail.

Now, I'm not usually a fan of men in velvet jackets, but somehow he manages to make it look sexy.

Lots of delicate, covetable jewelry in this film.

More great earrings.

Rich colors and sleeve details.

Again, another pretty dressing gown robe that could be translated for day now.

Painstakingly dyed top layer worn over silk.

This in-between era, between Edwardian in England, (Belle Epoque still rages on the continent) and Art Deco, is so rich in detail and femininity, it’s becoming my favorite.  The film itself has flaws, but the costumes are perfection.

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FAVES, no particular order

Directed by James Ivory, Costume Design Jenny Beavan, 1985

Directed by Jack Clayton, Costume Design Theoni V. Aldredge, 1974

Directed by Sally Potter, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1992

Direct by Arthur Penn, Costume Design Theadora Van Runkle, 1967

Directed by Iain Softley, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1997

Directed by Wong Kar Wai, Costume Design William Chang, 2000

Directed by Paul Thomas Anderson, Costume Design Mark Bridges, 2007

Directed by Cary Joji Fukanaga, Costume Design Michael O'Connor 2011

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