• About
  • Contact

The Fashionéaste

~ For lovers of fashion in film

The Fashionéaste

Category Archives: 1940’s

The Night Porter

18 Wednesday Apr 2012

Posted by Angie in 1940's, 1950's

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Charlotte Rampling, Dirk Bogarde, Liliani Cavani, sadomasochim, Stockholm Syndrome

With the runaway success, and unstoppable buzz of 50 Shades of Grey, I rented “The Night Porter” to revisit another sadomasochistic romance. Liliani Cavani’s 1974 film is very controversial, even today.

It’s set in 1957 Vienna where Max, a hotel night porter, and Lucia, a conductor’s wife, inadvertently meet again for the first time since WWII. Back then he was an SS officer and she was a teenager. He plucked her out of a crowd of prisoners and began to torture/rape her. She developed feelings for him, maybe what you’d classify as Stockholm Syndrome, and didn’t hesitate to resume their sadomasochistic relationship.

Lucia stumbles across Max.

Max works at night. He says he feels his shame in the light. Lucia means light. She’s the only thing that brings him joy. Their fortunes have reversed after the war. Max, Dirk Bogarde, was a SS officer, now a lowly hotel clerk, in the middle of his war crimes trial. He has already killed one witness who could’ve testified against him. Lucia, Charlotte Rampling, is now a posh conductor’s wife. She is the only other witness to his crimes. He could easily kill her, but his feelings get the better of him.

Lucia, in a child-like dress chosen for her by Max, in a flashback during her time in the concentration camp.

She is now married to a orchestra conductor. Beautiful, fitted camel hair coat, upturned collar, pearls, very befitting her new station in life.

At one point Max chains Lucia in his room so his peers (other former SS officers) can’t take her away when he’s at work. One of them, Hans, confronts Lucia and tells her that she should cooperate with them so they can help Max. She doesn’t trust him and says she’s chained because Max doesn’t want them to take her. He laughs and says that a chain wouldn’t stop them if they wanted to. This is true. The real chain keeping them together is their shared sickness, and longing for the past.

In this infamous flashback scene, Lucia serenades the officers with Marlene Dietrich's "Wenn Ich Mir Was Wünschen Dürfte." The hat, gloves, mens pants and suspenders worn with Rampling overt sexuality and confidence continue to inspire designers.

The masked "ball" mirrors their present situation where these officers are now trying to hide from their past, and pass themselves off as respectable gentlemen.

Max presents Lucia with the head of another prisoner who was bullying her. She merely asked Max to have the man transferred, but Max, having a flair for the dramatic (and violent) immediately thought of Salome and thought this would be an appropriate token of his affection for her. Thus continuing her trauma and guilt cycle.

Max and Lucia’s relationship puts his peers in danger. They just want to put the past behind them and live quiet respectable lives. Lucia knows them all from the camps and could testify against all of them, destroying everything they so carefully cobbled together. Max and Lucia want to stay together, living in the past, but the present day world will not allow it. Time marches on in the present, you cannot live in the past.

Klaus, the monocled one, is the ringleader in this motley crew, and his clothes vaguely imply his SS past. Black leather trench, said monocle, and hat.

Lucia was the submissive one before, but now she seems to be in charge. She's the one that initiated their affair. She has the power. She could easily go to the police and turn Max in, but she doesn't. That's shown here by Max kneeling behind her in a submissive pose, she's holding a pipe, something very phallic.

Max and Lucia say they want others to leave them alone so they can live in peace. Modern Germans are constantly reminded of their fascist past in pop culture and in politics. They are only too aware of doing anything that can be remotely viewed as being xenophobic or anti-Semitic. They will never be rid of, of “left alone” in this regard. Jews, in Israel and the world over use the horrors of WWII, and a history of persecution to inform their politics. Endless films, television shows depict their victimization and atrocities suffered at the hands of the Nazis. One of their slogans is “Never Forget.” Therefore they will be linked forever in the world’s consciousness.

After starving for days in his apartment, Max realizes he will never escape his peers. He dresses Lucia up in the same child-like dress from the beginning. Lucia doesn't say a word and follows along, knowing what will come. The bridge is their last walk on earth. In the pale morning light, they pass from the land of the living to the dead. Bert, his friend, has followed them and shoots them down.

Charlotte Rampling is her usual feline self, aloof with an undercurrent of carnal electricity. Dirk Bogarde… What can I say? If Peter O’Toole and Peter Lorre had a child it would be Dirk. Smug, English, with a thinly veiled, vile personality underneath. I love it. He’s an acquired taste.

Many critics at the time, were disgusted and appalled by Cavani’s use of concentration camp prisoners as a backdrop for titillation. Some who actually liked the film, thought the it was an essay on post-war European relations. Me? It definitely has problems. It’s not exactly rooted in reality, and Lucia’s character isn’t really fleshed out (no pun intended). I think it represents the inextricable relationship between Jews, Germany, and its shameful Nazi past. Framing it as a sadomasochistic relationship is interesting, albeit shocking and appalling.

Share this:

  • Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on Pinterest (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on Tumblr (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on LinkedIn (Opens in new window)

Like this:

Like Loading...

2011 Award Season is under way

26 Monday Dec 2011

Posted by Angie in 1910's, 1920's, 1930's, 1940's, 1950's, 1960's, 1970's, 1990's, Men, stuff to see, Women

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Arianne Phillips, David Fincher, Los Angeles Times

I’m SO behind in reading my papers.  But I’d be remiss for not mentioning Dec. 18th, LA Times Image Section.  Lots of great articles on this year’s crop of exciting costumes.

On David Fincher’s “Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.”

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-dragon-tattoo-20111218,0,7503394.story

On the surge in 20’s inspirations, “The Artist,” and Baz Luhrmann’s “The Great Gatsby.”

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-artist-20111218,0,6082131.story

Arianne Phillips talks about “W.E.” and the work remaking Wallis Simpson’s stunning wardrobe.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-phillips-20111218,0,7127321.story

Costume Design as part of building a character.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-honorable-20111218,0,6699626.story

Menswear from this season’s films.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-mens-styles-20111218,0,7403329.story

This just illustrates how little time I have to actually go see movies!!!  Oy.  You single childless people go frolic carefree into the night and see them for me!

Share this:

  • Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on Pinterest (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on Tumblr (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on LinkedIn (Opens in new window)

Like this:

Like Loading...

Lust, Caution

28 Monday Nov 2011

Posted by Angie in 1940's, Women

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Ang Lee, lust caution, Shanghai, Tony Leung Chiu-Wai, Wei Tang

Set in Shanghai during WWII, “Lust, Caution,” directed by Ang Lee, 2007, is a marvel of restraint. Wang Jiazhi, played by Wei Tang, gets swept up in a wave of patriotism and activism that ultimately **SPOILER ALERT **destroys her.  Coveted costumes by Lai Pan.

Wang goes undercover to seduce and entrap Mr. Yee, played meticulously by Tony Leung Chiu Wai. Mr. Yee collaborates with the Japanese occupiers to mercilessly silence the resistance. Along the way Mr. Yee falls in love with Wang, and Wang, against her will, falls in love with Mr. Yee.

The film is plotted brilliantly and at first you think that Mr. Yee is going to get his just desserts, but he is saved by Wang who ultimately cannot let him be killed.

Be forewarned, there is some freaky deaky sex here. Tony Leung is not the sweet forlorn Tony Leung in “Chungking Express,” he is a hardened, masochistic, soulless being. It’s not gratuitous, it’s to show the evolution of the relationship. At first Mr. Yee practically assaults her, she is just something to be conquered and humiliated in his eyes. Next, it becomes more like mutual lust. Lastly, Wang succumbs to her growing feelings and makes love to him, and his hardened heart softens and lets her in. The bedroom is the only place they can let down their guard safely.

Ok, so let’s talk about the clothes. Shanghai has always fascinated me. It’s always been a diverse city because of it’s trading stature. Russians, Middle Eastern people, Americans, Europeans have always lived there and established businesses there. The people living there adopt things from other cultures that they like giving the nature of the clothes a truly modern mashup of influences.

I love that Ang Lee opens with this Mah Jong game. Mah Jong is a way to pass leisure time. These women haven't a care in the world as their country is being torn apart. He conveys it all by them playing this game, with perfectly manicured nails.

You know a film is gonna be a good reference when the extras look this good. Love the huge clutch.

Wang and her wonderful hat and trench.

Maybe it's my narrow exposure to Chinese fashion, but I'd never seen a striped cheongsam. Doesn't it make it soo fresh? It melds the European and Chinese aesthetic perfectly.

Love the graphic scarf against that rich color.

It's damp and raining, and she still looks perfectly turned out.

I need to find a great rain hat like this.

Here it is from the back, gives you full coverage. And look at that cute bow.

I don't know if the lace is her slip or if it's trim on her hem, but I love the look.

Here she is again with that great hat and trench, this time with large clutch. I think I need to get one of those.

**SPOILER ALERT** At the end, Wang realizes the price of her mercy to Yee as she and her friends stare down an endless abyss that is to be their grave.  It shows you that in the fog of war, an act of humanity can cost you your life.

If you’re designing for FALL, this would make a great springboard.

HOMEWORK: find a great trench and rain hat. Let’s put our umbrellas in storage.

Share this:

  • Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on Pinterest (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on Tumblr (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on LinkedIn (Opens in new window)

Like this:

Like Loading...

Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

Join 362 other subscribers
Follow Me on Pinterest

CATEGORIES

Blogroll

  • Asian Fail
  • Decor8
  • Design Love Fest
  • FIDM, Los Angeles, Museum
  • Garance Dore
  • The Business
  • The Satorialist
  • The Treatment

FAVES, no particular order

Directed by James Ivory, Costume Design Jenny Beavan, 1985

Directed by Jack Clayton, Costume Design Theoni V. Aldredge, 1974

Directed by Sally Potter, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1992

Direct by Arthur Penn, Costume Design Theadora Van Runkle, 1967

Directed by Iain Softley, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1997

Directed by Wong Kar Wai, Costume Design William Chang, 2000

Directed by Paul Thomas Anderson, Costume Design Mark Bridges, 2007

Directed by Cary Joji Fukanaga, Costume Design Michael O'Connor 2011

Archives

Be cool:

Comments deemed inappropriate including general spam, self-promotional spam, rude language and offensive comments will not be published and will be deleted.

Please ID the source material if pinning from this blog, either The Fashioneaste (if copying my text) or the film's director/costume designer/cinematographer, whoever is responsible for the image.

Featuring

50's 1960's Paris Adriano Goldman Alexander McQueen American Cinematheque AN AMERICAN IN PARIS Andrei Tarkovsky Anna Karina Ann Demeulemeester A Room with a View (film) Bob Gruen Bonjour Tristesse Brigitte Bardot Carey Mulligan Cary Fukunaga Catherine Deneuve Charles Eames Charlotte Rampling Christopher Doyle collars Costume Designer cuffs Daniel Day Lewis Dario Marianelli David Fincher Dracula Edwardian Elizabeth Taylor Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising Faye Wong Film noir Francis Ford Coppola Google Google Search Helena Bonham Carter Helmut Lang Ismail Merchant Jack Palance James Ivory Jane Eyre Jean-Luc Godard Jean-Paul Gaultier Jean Seberg Jenny Beavan Judi Dench Julian Sands Keira Knightley Los Angeles County Museum of Art Maggie Smith Mark Bridges Merchant Ivory Productions Paul Newman Public Broadcasting Service Ray Eames Robert Redford Rock music Rock Stars Rodarte Sacrifice Sandy Powell Saul Bass Search Engines Searching Tarkovsky The Hunger Tony Leung Chiu-Wai Tony Scott Turner Classic Movies Film Festival Twitter Valentino Vogue Weegee William Chang Won Kar Wai Yves Saint Laurent
Copyright The Fashionéaste © 2011-2015. All rights reserved.

Blog at WordPress.com.

Privacy & Cookies: This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this website, you agree to their use.
To find out more, including how to control cookies, see here: Cookie Policy
  • Follow Following
    • The Fashionéaste
    • Join 288 other followers
    • Already have a WordPress.com account? Log in now.
    • The Fashionéaste
    • Customize
    • Follow Following
    • Sign up
    • Log in
    • Report this content
    • View site in Reader
    • Manage subscriptions
    • Collapse this bar
 

Loading Comments...
 

You must be logged in to post a comment.

    %d bloggers like this: