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Category Archives: 1900’s

Doctor Zhivago

15 Friday Nov 2013

Posted by Angie in 1900's, 1910's

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

Alec Guinness, Blackglama Fall 2013, Carolyn Murphy, David Lean, Doctor Zhivago, Geraldine Chaplin, Julie Christie, Maurice Jarre, Omar Sharif, Russian fur coat, Tom Courtenay

A cold Russian winter, the frozen masses on the brink of revolution, and best of all super awesome wool coats! David Lean’s 1965 epic, “Doctor Zhivago,” is a hearty stew of history (well, kind of), romance and tragedy. But be forewarned, this is a loooong mofo, almost as long as a Russian winter. I had to FLIP IT OVER to play part 2.

doctor zhivago title card

Aaaah… The days of nice title cards. I want this painting in my house!

Lara Antipova, Julie Christie, is a young woman who is having an affair with her mother’s lover, Victor Komarovsky, Rod Steiger.

doctor zhivago Julie Christie white shirt tie

I love the tie and long bangs. She just needs a pencil skirt and some Mary Jane heels.

doctor zhivago Julie Christie bow

Don’t you love a black silk ribbon on a ponytail? Chic schoolgirl.

doctor zhivago restaurant

Ok, off-topic, don’t you love this restaurant layout? This place could be in Brooklyn now. I love a sunken anything, living room, bedroom, you name it. The bar being higher up is nice, makes the space look bigger too.

doctor zhivago Julie Christie scarf

Great look on Lara, mixing textures with the scarf and coat.

doctor zhivago Julie Christie collar

Lara’s little bit of white collar on an otherwise black on black ensemble… Love! Try metallic instead of white for a different spin. Her and Pasha (her boyfriend) speak to Victor about their future.

doctor zhivago Rod Steiger

Rich, opportunistic, maybe-rapist, Rod Steiger (looking a little like Louis C.K. don’t you think?) Lean shoots him in front of a mirror suggesting a two-faced, duplicitous nature.

doctor zhivago Rod Steiger Julie Christie

Lara is merely a piece of meat to him. Lean hints at this with just showing her body in the mirror, dressed in red.

doctor zhivago Julie Christie lace

Komarovsky puts a lace scarf on Lara, she looks almost Middle-Eastern, underscoring she is part of his harem, or her submissiveness.

Yuri Zhivago, Omar Sharif, was orphaned as a boy and raised by the Gromenkos. Their daughter Tonya, Geraldine Chaplin (yes, that Chaplin’s daughter), grows up and her and Yuri are expected to marry.

doctor zhivago Geraldine Chaplin Omar Sharif

Tonya is in pink, totally popping out in a sea of drab, working-class.

doctor zhivago Omar Sharif Geraldine Chaplin

This could be a Valentino ad. I love it! Oh, the ennuni of the upper-class.

doctor zhivago Geraldine Chaplin

And the back of her dress… I want. Also, note how grand and beautiful Tonya’s home is. It will not stay that way when the revolution comes.

Yuri meets Lara when he is a young doctor in training. He comes to the aid of her mother who tried to commit suicide after finding out about Lara’s affair. Yuri is taken in by Lara’s beauty and is none too please with the old man’s treatment of her.

After an argument one night Victor attacks and rapes Lara. But wait- I guess it depends on who you ask. Komarovsky wouldn’t classify it as a “legitimate” rape, like some Republicans. The shame drives Lara to shoot Victor at a high society party later that night. Victor, not mortally wounded, yells for Lara to leave, but insists no police be called. This sets tongues-a-wagging. Yuri watches the whole spectacle along with Tonya Gromenko.

doctor zhivago Julie Christie fur coat gun

Lara hides the gun in her muff, once inside she spots Komarovsky and fires. You attack my muff, my muff will attack you. Yes, I went there.

Pasha Antipov, a young would-be revolutionary and Lara’s fiancee, comes to Lara’s aid and whisks her away.

doctor zhivago Pasha coat back

Here Pasha is the lowly one, parting the upper-class sea. Tables will be turned soon. I love his coat from the back and his jauntily tipped cap.

doctor zhivago omar sharif geraldine chaplin white fur coat

They head home after the party. Aren’t they a dashing couple? Save your gas, let’s all travel by sleigh.

Lara tells Pasha all the dirty details, including the rape. He is angry, but forgives her enough to look past it. Later he takes Lara and their baby daughter with him to the country. There he enlists to fight for the Russian Army.

doctor zhivago Julie Christie sweater

Julie Christie just can’t do dowdy or down-and-out. Too pretty. On a side note, I noticed Asian extras, this is where the east meets west, and its influence is seen in the tunics the men wear.

Pasha goes missing in action after a charge on the German Army. Lara tries to find him and runs into Yuri who had been drafted as a doctor. They set up a field hospital and fall in love, but never act on their feelings.

doctor zhivago Julie Christie layers

You just can’t have enough layers, am I right?

doctor zhivago uggs

I know they’re supposed to be the unwashed masses, but they do great layering, no? They got on Uggs, which I loathe, but those are OG Uggs, so I guess that’s OK.

doctor zhivago Julie Christie cape

Cape with a Peter Pan collar, loves it.

doctor zhivago apron dress

Who doesn’t love an apron dress?

doctor zhivago Julie Christie fur hat

Her eyes are striking, hooded enough to look exotic, crystal clear blue. And let’s just soak up how fab that sable hat is.

doctor zhivago lenin poster

The war ends. The Bolsheviks have taken Moscow, therefore the country. It’s a brave new world for Yuri.

doctor zhivago Geraldine Chaplin shirt

Tonya spots Yuri from her balcony on his return. The delicate ruffled shirt is a great alternative to a collared shirt for the office.

doctor zhivago Geraldine Chaplin hats

Tonya explains to Yuri the, um, change of decor, and couple extra people, er- Comrades, in their once stately mansion. Redistribution of wealth, this is THE Republican nightmare.

doctor zhivago geraldine chaplin long sweater

Tonya no longer has her fine furs, but still possesses her class and sense of style, even in a plain sweater set. The long sweater with matching knit skirt, comfy, practical, but still chic.

doctor zhivago geraldine chaplin ruffle

Tonya still stands out because she’s in color, albeit not as much as contrast as before, while those around her are in drab neutrals. This delicate pleated collar is a great detail.

doctor zhivago omar sharif shirt

Yuri’s pullover would be great in cashmere or maybe a marled wool.

Yevgraf, Alec Guinness, Yuri’s half-brother, goes deep, DEEP undercover for the Bolsheviks as a Russian soldier.

doctor zhivago alec guiness hat

Check out Obi Wan as a young revolutionary. I love these wool caps, and his grey mock turtleneck and military jacket combo.

Yuri goes to see a patient and his sarcastic remarks get him in hot water with his Comrades.

doctor zhivago omar sharif leather wool coats

Who doesn’t love a leather pea coat? The belt on Yuri’s coat is a nice touch. Even better in a contrast color like red, or purple.

Yevgraf, now a high-ranking Communist Party member, follows Yuri home one night, and tells him that the Party leaders are watching Yuri. Yevgraf tells them to leave Moscow if they want to survive. Yevgraf secures them fake papers to leave for Tonya’s country home in Varykino.

doctor zhivago omar sharif jacket belt

I kinda like this belted, tunic + knee high boots look on a guy, but you have to be the right guy to pull it off. And since the look is Proletariat, you must have it in most luxe fabrics or you’re just gonna look like a poor, Central Asian, raggamuffin.

doctor zhivago train station

This once noble family huddles with the rest of masses trying to get out of Moscow.

Tonya, remains upbeat in the face of uncertainty.

doctor zhivago Geraldine Chaplin coat lace scarf

It’s hard to see, but this was the best shot I could get, her scarf is knitted more like lace than like standard jersey, it’s different. And how cute is her son’s hat and tone-on-tone scarves? The lower one being wrapped almost around his shoulders.

Yuri learns that Lara is living nearby in Yuriatin with her daughter. He can’t stop thinking about her. Yuri goes to Yuriatin, as you know he would, and they finally get it on.

doctor zhivago omar sharif julie christie reunited

Does it feel weird to cheer for infidelity?

doctor zhivago winter trees

The harsh winter comes and even it seems softer because Lara is back in his life.

doctor zhivago omar sharif ice window

Yuri seems trapped by circumstance if not literally by his environment. Even the frost on the windows dresses the part- looks folksy Russian.

doctor zhivago sable blanket

Is that a crazy mega sable blanket, or what? Even so, it can’t keep the heat in this relationship. Yuri is bound to super-pregnant Tonya by loyalty, if not by love, and decides to break it off with Lara since the guilt is eating away at him.

He goes back to Yuriatin to tell Lara and see her one last time. She understands and knows that he would’ve eventually done the decent thing and stopped the affair. On his way back, he gets kidnapped by the Red Army and is forced into service as a doctor.

doctor zhivago landscape

It is David Lean. He just couldn’t help himself. Here’s the long shot showing Yuri’s trail across the screen to show the vastness and how small the individual is in this society.

After two grueling years, he finally deserts, and walks all the way back to Yuriatin. When he gets to Lara’s apartment he is stunned at his transformation.

doctor zhivago omar sharif frozen moustache

Yeeeech. Some people criticized the film for having an anti-Soviet angle, meaning Lean wanted to show how much worse the country was after Communism took over. That idea being manifested by Yuri and what he went through. His material wealth taken from him, his freedom almost non-existent, and his creativity and any joy one can get from life- a luxury of another lifetime.

Lara shows him a letter Tonya sent to her. Tonya and the family were deported to Paris. Yuri and Lara take Katya to Varykino, which is now deserted and frozen over as if out of a fairy tale.

doctor zhivago frozen house

Brrr. Artifacts of a bygone upper-class era.

doctor zhivago julie christie fingerless gloves omar sharif

I love her too-big sweater and fingerless gloves.

The only inhabitable room is the library, as if to say the only solace in an oppressive state, is your own mind, your own intellect or creativity that keeps you human. Yuri, Lara and Katya settle in the library, and he starts writing the Lara poems which make him famous.

Komarovsky appears, having switched sides to the Commies, he convinces Yuri to go with him, to save Lara and Katya now that Lara’s ex, Strelnikov/Pasha is dead, Lara’s a target. Yuri agrees, they load up all their stuff, but there’s no room for Yuri. He says he’ll catch up in his own sleigh, sending Lara off. They exchange knowing looks that he will not be going.

In the end, Yuri, an old man, spots Lara from a streetcar he’s riding in. He tries to get off and follow her, but he suffers a fatal heart attack. Lara keeps walking, never knowing Yuri was just behind her.

I wanted to do this film for winter inspiration, I didn’t last winter but I thought this winter I can’t miss out. Turns out I wasn’t the only one thinking this is great winter inspiration. Check out a current Blackglama fall campaign:

Blackglama and Carolyn Murphy, Fall 2013. This film still inspires.

Blackglama and Carolyn Murphy looking very Lara-ish.

carolyn murphy fireplacecarolyn murphy frosted windowMaurice Jarre’s unforgettable (for good or bad), “Lara’s Theme,” is schmaltzy and waltzy but very evocative of romance, longing, a hint of tragedy with Western orchestration and Eastern tinkles of folk music.

Maybe it’s because I just finished listening to Dan Carlin’s, Hardcore History podcast, the Wrath of the Khans (5 parts!), but something about Central Asia/Mongolia/Russia captivates me right now. I guess I just needed some visuals to balance out the audio.

Enjoy!

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There Will Be Blood

04 Saturday Feb 2012

Posted by Angie in 1900's, 1910's, Men

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Daniel Day Lewis, Mark Bridges, Paul Thomas Anderson, There Will Be Blood

… And great pants! Or should I say trousers? And shirts, and layering for men.

Daniel Day-Lewis plays a poor gold prospector turned rich oil speculator in Paul Thomas Anderson, 2007, film. Watching it again, I really hate that he doesn’t do more films. He really deserved the Oscar for that performance.

All the pants are high-waisted. The cinch belt in the back, and loose leg.

Love the dusty, faded color palette.

The only time Daniel is not ruthless is when he's with his adopted son, H.W. He says he only took care of him because he needed a sweet face to buy land, but this shows that the baby had him at hello. This connection is his salvation of sorts. His only outlet for tenderness and love.

They are an adorable pair, aren't they? The pocket watch chain is a key accessory. And I never thought about pens as an accessory, but antique pens in you pocket look rather nice.

Stripes and vests.

Vintage hunting gear always looks fashionable.

Jodhpurs? Look great on him. But then again, being long and lean, anything would.

I love the braces (suspenders that button, not clip) belt detail.

Layered neutrals.

More braces. Oh, how I wish I bought these Ralph Lauren ones I saw a few years ago. I balked at the $120 price, but now, regretting not buying. Moral of the story: if you find something unique that fills a wardrobe void, buy it.

Paul Dano's simple preacher look.

Love the gold tie.

I just like this shot. The colors, the workwear clothes.

I love his shirt, but can't help thinking, did they have double needle machines during this time? It's all over his shirt. I'll let it go.

I LOVE this shot. Paul Dano looks like he's in a Magritte painting. I'm sure P.T. Anderson was trying to convince himself that it would be OK if Dano wore a bowler hat. But, no, a rural preacher would not. Speaking of surreal, it must've been for the Sunday family. There's oil all around them but they can't make any money off it.

I love that Daniel is kicking Eli's ass and all I can focus on are Daniels boots and pants.

They're fantastic!

Such dark denim and such a pin thin wide stripe.

I love his small collar. Signals his smallness, his insignificance.

The echoes back to the baby image. H.W. is trying to connect with him, but it doesn't work this time.

Here the pocket watch chain is straight across. Gives you some variety on how to wear it.

Anderson tracks groups of men walking hurriedly from behind.

As if we're one of them, the masses that are about to develop California.

Family = blood. Blood = conflict. There will be conflict within our families. How we handle it is what defines us. Daniel says he’s always wanted a family, even when he was a young boy. But look how he treated his adopted son. H.W. lost his hearing, but it’s Daniel who is deaf. He doesn’t listen to anyone but himself. He never married. He only worked and when he started making significant money, that was the relationship that ruled the rest of his life. In the end he’s left with nothing but money.

Such a great film very loosely based on the first part Upton Sinclair novel, Oil! I can’t believe he got it made. Mark Bridges did a tremendous job. He’s nominated this year for “The Artist.”

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A Room with a View

24 Saturday Sep 2011

Posted by Angie in 1900's, Men, Women

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

1900's England, 1900's Italy, A Room with a View (film), E. M. Forster, Edwardian, film costumes, Helena Bonham Carter, Ismail Merchant, James Ivory, Jenny Beavan, Judi Dench, Julian Sands, Maggie Smith, Merchant Ivory Productions

“A Room with a View” is my favorite film.  I first saw it in high school when it came out and loved it ever since. It is perfect. The acting, direction, production design, music, and a perfectly balanced story: drama, comedy and romance!  What more could a girl want?

Maggie Smith Judi Dench A Room with a View

The high Edwardian collars and nipped waists with long flared skirts… See how great Judi Dench and Maggie Smith look, even as “women of a certain age,” in this era.

Maggie Smith Judi Dench A Room with a View

See Maggie Smith’s belt? Such a fantastic detail giving a clue to her character’s unfulfilled desire to live with more passion.

Helena Bonham Carter A Room with a View

The lace laid shawl-like over the blouse is a beauty.

A Room with a View Helena Bonham Carter Julian Sands

Their eyes lock over a sea of wild grasses.

A Room with a View Helena Bonham Carter Maggie Smith

Lucy’s dressing gown is to die for. Imagine sewing all those lace panels?! The costumes and hair play up the contrast of these two personalities, young, independent, against, older, prim, constrained by society’s expectations.

A Room with a View Helena Bonham Carter Daniel Day-Lewis

Is this fantastic or what? And look at that waist!

A Room with a View Helena Bonham Carter braid

She looks so sweet with that gorgeous thick braid and jacket.

 Isabella Cellani A Room with a View

This young lady’s image has always stayed with me. Her layered collar, full sleeves and beautifully rustic hair are magic.

 Isabella Cellani A Room with a View

Her braid from the back is exquisite.

Daniel Day-Lewis A Room with a View

The men look great too. Daniel Day-Lewis at his sourpuss best. Stiff collar, stiffer personality.

A Room with a View Julian Sands suspenders

And what can I say about Julian Sands? Never looked finer than in this film. His comfortable bohemian, free-thinking fellow allows himself to say what he feels and go for love above all else. Love the braces (suspenders)!

Director James Ivory, and producer Ismail Merchant are in a class by themselves.  Merchant Ivory films stand the test of time. Costume Designer, Jenny Beavan did a marvelous job with this one.  So many great details to choose from, I had to narrow it down.

PLEASE DON’T REMAKE IT!  Why mess with perfection?

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FAVES, no particular order

Directed by James Ivory, Costume Design Jenny Beavan, 1985

Directed by Jack Clayton, Costume Design Theoni V. Aldredge, 1974

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Directed by Iain Softley, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1997

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Directed by Paul Thomas Anderson, Costume Design Mark Bridges, 2007

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