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Author Archives: Angie

Black Swan

07 Tuesday Feb 2012

Posted by Angie in Contemporary/Present Day, Women

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Amy Westcott, Black Swan, Darren Aronofsky, Rodarte

First let me say… Was the Superbowl great or what?  I’m just glad it wasn’t a blowout.  Last week, I heard the sports books in Vegas had the Patriots by 3, but that lots of Giants fans placed future bets at 3 1/2 Giants, and if the Giants won by that, Vegas would be in deep sh*t.  So of course, I took that 3 1/2 Giants bet against the husband, and got to gloat and do a little dance when Brady’s Hail Mary was denied.  He was asleep during their last match up, woke up right after Tyree made that historic and unbelievable catch.  Probably because I was yelling at the TV.  I was pulling for the Giants then, too.  But man, a sniper like shot from Manning between two defenders to Manningham, who kept his feet in and held onto the rock, all in a millisecond.  Aaaah… That’s the stuff…

But enough about football, let’s talk tutus!

There was some back-and-forth between the Costume Designer Amy Westcott and the Rodarte girls, Kate and Laura Mulleavy.  Westcott was put-off by the Mulleavys complaining that they were not eligible for nomination, even though they only designed seven ballet tutus for the film, Westcott the rest of the costumes.  Neither received an Academy Award nomination for their work but the Mulleavys parlayed their experience in “Black Swan” into upcoming projects such as costume design for LA Opera’s Don Giovanni.

I just watched it, and I must say, watching something outside of the award season hype is very sobering.  Or maybe the experience of watching it on my computer and not in a darkened theater made it less award-worthy?  In any case, what was the big deal about this film?  The racy girl-on-girl scene?  Really?  In this day and age porn is ubiquitous.  So what?  The fact that it’s two famous chicks getting it on?  Again, in sex tape land, who cares?

I’m not saying it’s bad.  It’s a psychological drama, not some kinky horror film that it was hyped to be.  I thought it was OK.  The black swan/white swan is your classic duality in nature.  We all have darkness and light.  The ballet world is catty and competitive.  What industry is not?  Is she losing her mind?  Maybe.  So again, I thought it was OK, well made for sure, but not really fresh.

But Westcott’s costumes are a study in elegant casual dressing. Lots of featherweight knits, layered over bodysuits and leggings.

Featherweight shrug. I want it!

I love the back.

The soft pastels really add to the look.

Beautiful evening gown.

The back.

This featherweight turtleneck is great. You can wear a colorful cami under it to spice it up.

There are lots of tracking shots behind her. I like how this is framed. She's always in light or white colors. The others in black or dark.

Great layering.

I like this look because it's both delicate and athletic. And that's what dancers are, essentially.

Another great shrug and bodysuit combo. Look at that great yarn detail on the bust, and the rope-like effect of the yarn on the straps and edge trim. This looks like it's from a Rodarte collection. But who knows?

The back. Love it!

A Rodarte bodice and tutu for the white swan. 13 layers of tulle jutting straight out. All hand sewn.

A Rodarte tutu for the black swan.

A better view.

Very gothic.

The makeup on her hands is a small but strong detail.

Nina finally letting go and becoming the black swan. I love the black dripping down her tights.

Her full transformation.

Better shot of the white swan bodice. Can I say it's really not fair that Natalie looks better with no makeup on?

Lots of textures.

Given all the press for the tutus, Aronofsky shot a lot of close-ups of Natalie. You barely get a full view of the tutus.

Nina finishes the performance of her life.

You know a film has influenced you when you want to go out and buy the look.  I will be on the hunt for featherweight shrugs.  I don’t care that this is from last year.  It looks comfy and feminine.

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There Will Be Blood

04 Saturday Feb 2012

Posted by Angie in 1900's, 1910's, Men

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Daniel Day Lewis, Mark Bridges, Paul Thomas Anderson, There Will Be Blood

… And great pants! Or should I say trousers? And shirts, and layering for men.

Daniel Day-Lewis plays a poor gold prospector turned rich oil speculator in Paul Thomas Anderson, 2007, film. Watching it again, I really hate that he doesn’t do more films. He really deserved the Oscar for that performance.

All the pants are high-waisted. The cinch belt in the back, and loose leg.

Love the dusty, faded color palette.

The only time Daniel is not ruthless is when he's with his adopted son, H.W. He says he only took care of him because he needed a sweet face to buy land, but this shows that the baby had him at hello. This connection is his salvation of sorts. His only outlet for tenderness and love.

They are an adorable pair, aren't they? The pocket watch chain is a key accessory. And I never thought about pens as an accessory, but antique pens in you pocket look rather nice.

Stripes and vests.

Vintage hunting gear always looks fashionable.

Jodhpurs? Look great on him. But then again, being long and lean, anything would.

I love the braces (suspenders that button, not clip) belt detail.

Layered neutrals.

More braces. Oh, how I wish I bought these Ralph Lauren ones I saw a few years ago. I balked at the $120 price, but now, regretting not buying. Moral of the story: if you find something unique that fills a wardrobe void, buy it.

Paul Dano's simple preacher look.

Love the gold tie.

I just like this shot. The colors, the workwear clothes.

I love his shirt, but can't help thinking, did they have double needle machines during this time? It's all over his shirt. I'll let it go.

I LOVE this shot. Paul Dano looks like he's in a Magritte painting. I'm sure P.T. Anderson was trying to convince himself that it would be OK if Dano wore a bowler hat. But, no, a rural preacher would not. Speaking of surreal, it must've been for the Sunday family. There's oil all around them but they can't make any money off it.

I love that Daniel is kicking Eli's ass and all I can focus on are Daniels boots and pants.

They're fantastic!

Such dark denim and such a pin thin wide stripe.

I love his small collar. Signals his smallness, his insignificance.

The echoes back to the baby image. H.W. is trying to connect with him, but it doesn't work this time.

Here the pocket watch chain is straight across. Gives you some variety on how to wear it.

Anderson tracks groups of men walking hurriedly from behind.

As if we're one of them, the masses that are about to develop California.

Family = blood. Blood = conflict. There will be conflict within our families. How we handle it is what defines us. Daniel says he’s always wanted a family, even when he was a young boy. But look how he treated his adopted son. H.W. lost his hearing, but it’s Daniel who is deaf. He doesn’t listen to anyone but himself. He never married. He only worked and when he started making significant money, that was the relationship that ruled the rest of his life. In the end he’s left with nothing but money.

Such a great film very loosely based on the first part Upton Sinclair novel, Oil! I can’t believe he got it made. Mark Bridges did a tremendous job. He’s nominated this year for “The Artist.”

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Stylists: New Fashion Visionaries

03 Friday Feb 2012

Posted by Angie in Books

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Katie Baron, Stylists, Stylists: New Fashion Visionaries

Love them or hate them, they’re not going away, in fact they’re multiplying.  I’m not talking about celebrity red carpet dressers, I’m talking about the talent behind today’s most influential magazines, and runway shows.  A collection isn’t ready to be shown until the stylist and designer have ordered and assembled all the looks that will walk.

Stylists: New Fashion Visionaries, by Katie Baron.

Marie-Amelié Sauvé, stylist to the house of Balenciaga. Quiet but forcing boundaries ever forward.

I do admire them.  Can you imagine having to do something new and exciting all the time, or risk looking stale?  It must be nerve-racking, but fun and challenging when you’ve got the gift.

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Bespoke Mens Shirts in LA and beyond

01 Wednesday Feb 2012

Posted by Angie in stuff to do

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Bespoke, Made to measure

Ah, if only women would realize how nice a custom shirt is, we’d have a lot more options.  Maybe these tailors would take on doing one?  Doesn’t hurt to ask.  But do understand, their training and experience is in fitting men.  Mens measurements, and how they fit and how the fabric hangs is different.  Men don’t have boobs.

Bespoke/Custom: The pattern is made from your body measurements.  It is unique to you and you alone.

Made-to-Measure: They start with a ready made pattern (a block), then adjust the pattern specific to your measurements.

Of course bespoke will fit you like a glove, but the made-to-measure is a bit cheaper.  Both those options let you choose the fabric/pattern, buttons, shape of pockets, shape of cuffs and any other detail you want to add.  For the cheapest option, you can always buy a nice shirt from a department store or shop that does alterations and get it tailored to your needs.

Where to buy in the LA area.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-shirt-side-20120129,0,7395227.story

A companion story on the rise of made-to-measure clothing.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-custom-shirts-20120129,0,1643119.story?track=rss

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Mel Gibson

28 Saturday Jan 2012

Posted by Angie in 1910's, 1960's, Future, Men

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Gallipoli, George Miller, Mel Gibson, Norma Moriceau, Peter Weir, Road Warrior, Terry Ryan, The Year of Living Dangerously

Before he went off the rails, Mel was the too-pretty-to-be-ruggedly handsome Aussie import.  He’s now gray, and the years of smoking and drinking have caught up with him, not to mention the immediacy of a shitstorm when your ex uploads you losing it on tape.

He looks sheepish and apologetic now, but in his youth no one was more entrancing.  He was tall, dark, tan with deep emerald eyes that always seemed to be searching.

Random?  Yes, he’s not known as a trendsetter, but he’s been doing some speaking engagements around town, and I’ve been watching “Downton Abbey,” and they’re in WWI right now, and it made me think of “Gallipoli” which made me think of Mel and what a stunner he was.

“Gallipoli,” directed by Peter Weir, 1981, is the heart-wrenching story of two young Australian men who join the WWI effort in Turkey.  The Australians battle the German allied Turks in the battle at Gallipoli, later known for the immense number of casualties suffered by Britain and its allies.  The loss was a sobering, bloody, reality of the price of war to the ANZAC (Australia New Zealand Army Corps) and the people of those young nations.

Curiously, there is no Costume Designer credited.  They did a bang up job.  Watching it again, there is lots of great styling details for you to use.

The credits from IMDB:

Phil Eagles …. stand-by wardrobe
Graham Purcell …. assistant wardrobe coordinator
Terry Ryan …. wardrobe coordinator
Abdel Sameeh …. wardrobe assistant: Egypt

The first half is in dusty western Australia. Lots of great woven shirt inspiration.

I love the two stripes on this one. Layers and braces (suspenders, the ones you button, not clip.)

Lots of great dusty, pastel, striped wovens. Archie, the sprinter, at right.

Bandanas and vests.

There's Mel.

I love the bright, patterned bandana, against his dark coat. Archie's uncle, a world-class sprinter in his own day. He also represents the nation, and Archie the unlimited potential of its youth.

He always looks like he's up to somethin'. The cap tipped just so, the cigarette.

I can see why Mark Lee was cast. Very fresh-faced and representative of innocence.

Gosh, they're cute. Even dirty and confused-looking.

Nice and cleaned up.

Love the patterned bandana.

More caps and vests.

In the trenches.

War games are over. They hear the sounds of real battle. I'm sure Weir chose sundown to signify that lives are about to end.

Weir uses a lot of mirroring in this film.  Archie trains on a field as a young man, dies on a battlefield a man.  Track uniform, to military uniform.  The men train for battle in the shadow of the Sphinx in Egypt.  They die at Gallipoli in the shadow of a rock formation called the Sphinx.  Archie’s cattle rancher hat, to Archie’s Light Brigade hat. Racing for sport, to racing for your life and the lives of others, Archie’s chest out crossing-the-finish-line pose, to Archie chest-out-dying pose.

Leading up to this shot, Weir tracks Archie sprinting, echoing his training at the beginning with his uncle. Right before he charges, he gives himself a pep talk. The same one his uncle gives him at the beginning. It serves to both give Archie the adrenaline boost, and to also remind him and us of his home. He should be home training to be an Olympic athlete, not about to charge into a wall of machine gun fire without a snowball's chance in hell of surviving. Weir shoots Archie from the side, running for the "finish" line. He is gunned down, arms go up. From the front it could easily look like a Christ pose, but Weir is too tasteful for that. Archie is not a martyr for a religious cause. He is a casualty of the insanity of war. Weir ends the film on this freeze frame. This says it all. Your country's best and brightest young men, sent to die, for what?

The irony is that the military only takes healthy men.  WWI devastated all participating nations.  No country was left untouched from heavy loss of life.  Where would this world be today if these courageous men didn’t die?  What inventions and innovations never came to pass?

Weir is a master of economy and impact.  The least amount of words, no scene too long, for maximum impact.  I am a puddle.  I cannot bear the ending.

“The Road Warrior,” 1981, came on the heels of the underground success of “Mad Max.”  Both take place in the dusty post-apocalyptic, leather daddy future.  George Miller’s argument for weaning ourselves off oil dependence?

Leathered up.

Hmmm...

I think this movie is in the closet.

Norma Moriceau’s bondage-y costumes were eye-opening and unique to say the least, for the hyper-macho, violence buffet that’s served here.

“The Year of Living Dangerously,” 1982, Peter Weir’s tropical drama puts an ever-glistening Mel in the midst of political turmoil and a romantic triangle.  Costume Design by Terry Ryan.

Mid 60's suit will have to go.

Those aviators can stay.

Ah, that's better.

Love the pleat with vent in the back.

Man, he was handsome.

Even the poster is stylish and sexy. A throwback to vintage suspense thrillers.

Peter Weir is great at slow, taut, tension.  And Linda Hunt earned every ounce of Academy gold for her portrayal of Billy Kwan, a half-Chinese man.  She was a woman playing a man.  Maybe this sets a precedent of sorts for Glenn Close who plays a woman pretending to be a man in “Albert Nobbs” for this year’s Oscar race.

Dang, he was busy in the early 80’s!  I think he looked the best in these.  I hope he gets the help he needs and gets back to making great films.

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Eiko Ishioka RIP

27 Friday Jan 2012

Posted by Angie in R.I.P.

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Cirque du Soleil, Dracula, Eiko Ishioka, Green Goblin

Eiko Ishioka died last Saturday, January 21st, in Tokyo, Japan.  The world has lost a great visual artist.  She broke many boundaries by just being the best at what she does.  She rose to the top in graphic design, heading her own firm in Japan, a rarity in the 70’s.  She channeled her visual style to costume and production design.  She even melded form and function to design multiple Olympic teams uniforms and outerwear.

What I admire most about her is her challenging herself to try other genres.  She was very successful doing graphic design.  It must’ve been very lucrative, too.  But I’m sure she wanted to keep growing as an artist, to keep adding to her skills.  It took an awful lot of hard work and courage for her to branch out and learn new disciplines.  But she did, and she excelled.  From the costumes in her Academy award-winning turn in “Bram Stoker’s Dracula,” to Broadway’s Spiderman, to Cirque du Soleil, she always shocks us with her fearless ability to push the boundaries of our expectations.

She said the fanning skin of a lizard inspired this collar. "Bram Stoker's Dracula."

The Green Goblin in Broadway's Spiderman: Turn Off the Dark.

Cirque du Soleil: Varekai.

Her last costume design gig was for Tarsem Singh’s “Mirror, Mirror.”  It should be a visual feast.  Sadly, her last gift to us.

Eiko Ishioka, 1939-2012

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Lomita Railroad Museum

26 Thursday Jan 2012

Posted by Angie in stuff to see

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antique buttons, antique locks, antique pocket watches, antique railroad uniform buttons, Lomita Railroad Museum, railroad museum

Took my little guy to see some trains at this little (and I mean TINY) museum.  It’s more like a place to put one’s collectables that aren’t quite rare or historical enough to be put in, say, The National Gallery.  Just a lot of fun, old, railroad ephemera.  Stop by if you’re in the area, but don’t go too far out of your way.

I love antique pocket watches.

These buttons can inspire your sundry development for jeans, jackets, etc. Love the stars!

These old locks have so much character. They'd make great necklace charms in miniature, no?

Old telegraphs. The bulbs have a great shape. Great lamp/light inspiration.

More great buttons.

And some more... Love the old Union Pacific pin. Ok, that's it.

http://www.lomita-rr.org/

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Justin Timberlake Creative Director at Callaway

25 Wednesday Jan 2012

Posted by Angie in Men

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Callaway, Callaway Golf Company, Golf, J.Lindeberg, Justin Timberlake, Original Penguin

As you might have guessed by now, I love sports.  An interest in sports and fashion is not mutually exclusive.  I even know how to play golf.  I had to learn when I started dating the husband.  With the December appointment of JT as Callaway Creative Director, yes, Creative Director, not just a face or a swing for the ad campaign, Callaway is gripping and ripping it, aiming for the tee.

He's no duffer. He has a 6 handicap. What's yours?

He’s in charge of their marketing strategy.  Prepare yourself for the onslaught: Golf is cool.  Hmmm.  I think Tiger made golf cool in the 90’s, and brought in a whole new generation that might have been put off by its country club snootiness.  Lot’s of surf/skate/ski guys and gals golf now.

I don’t think they have to waste time and $$ trying to make golf cool.  They simply need to design a better product.  I’m not talking about their equipment.  I’m talking clothes.

Booooooooorrrrriiiiiing!

Good God. They're trying, I guess. The print on the 1st and 3rd one from the left are probably the "fashion" polos. The fact that they've named them the Rothko polos makes me cringe. You think one of the fathers of abstract art wants to be associated with this lame attempt at being "arty?" On a golf polo, no less.

Seriously? What grown man, young or old, wants to wear shorts ABOVE his knees?

That "V" shaped logo on the belt buckle has got to go. I know it's an arrow, just like they have on their club heads and putters to line up your shot. But putting it right above your crotch, it's like saying V for vagina. Can't you do the old English C for Callaway?

They’re based in Carlsbad, CA.  In between LA and San Diego.  They have no excuse for being so old farty.  They are in the midst of surf/skate land.  This culture is about pattern (mostly yarn dye stripes) and graphics for tops.  And fit is key.  It can’t be a big box.  It needs to be a slimmer fit that still gives a guy (or gal) room to make a big swing.  Think 70’s fitted polos.

J. Lindeberg tried to meld the skate aesthetic with golf, with some success.

This is from JT's website announcing his Callaway appointment. Hello, PR person... Maybe you should put up a picture of him in Callaway gear instead. He's wearing J. Lindeberg here.

The best look for this new Lost Boys generation they’re trying to court is already being done by the Original Penguin people.  Why they haven’t done golf shirts before is beyond me.  They just need to change the fabric to a sweat-wicking, UV-blocking type, call it the sport version and BOOM, increase profits without extra design work.

The fit is, has always been, slim.

Yarn dye stripes. (As a side note, someone please get them to hire a decent stylist for this site! It's shockingly sad because they have great shirts.)

Volcom shorts. Note, covered knees.

They give it a modern twist with the diagonal seam in the back, and extra pocket (perfect for tees.)

Women’s is a whole other problem.  Let’s just say we don’t want to look like a bunch of middle-aged, overweight lesbians (not that there’s anything wrong with that!), we’d prefer looking like we do in everyday life, stylish and modern.

You can make golf clothes fun, fresh, with a nod to the past, and a modern twist.  Maybe JT can make it happen.  Maybe…

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Michael Pitt

23 Monday Jan 2012

Posted by Angie in Men

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Craig McDean, Michael Pitt

Let me first say, I love me some playoff football.  Weren’t those games awesome???  I was totally slack-jawed when Cundiff missed that field goal (!!), and so was the whole Ravens bench.  And a round of applause for the 49ers.  17 years since a playoff game.  And they almost won it.  I hate that friggin’ coin toss.  It’s so unfair, don’t you think?  Whoever wins gets possession and they only have to get to field goal range to punt it in for the win.  Stupid.

So, I’ve had a little testosterone fix, here’s something for the guys…

He’s got the look.  The new look in men’s hair.  Who’d figure Jimmy Darmody- style star.  I just hope that young and older alike will stop with the beadhead comb-over that’s been stubbornly keeping you guys from looking your best.

Why wouldn't you want to look like him? Photo: Craig McDean

An effortless cool. Photo: Craig McDean.

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Paramount’s Centennial

17 Tuesday Jan 2012

Posted by Angie in stuff to see

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Academy of Motion Pictures Arts and Sciences, Edith Head, Paramount Pictures

Oy.  I’m behind on my reading and general research because I’m knee-deep in “Downton Abbey.”  I’m only two episodes from finishing Season 1.  I promise to post stuff from an actual film next.

But, in the meantime…

The Academy is hosting a screening the the first Oscar winner, “Wings” from 1927, with live musical accompaniment.  It’s January 18th (yes, tomorrow) at the Samuel Goldwyn Theater, 8929 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 90211.  It’s part of Paramount exhibition celebrating their first 100 years.  Tickets are only $5, $3 if you have a valid student ID, but they went on sale Dec. 1st.  Call to see if they’re still available!!!

If you miss it there’s lots more to see.  In the Academy Grand Lobby Gallery there are original posters of all Paramount’s Best Picture winners, behind-the-scenes production stills, and for you fashion fans, Edith Head (Paramount’s costume designer deluxe) costume sketches.  Ends February 5th.  Admission is free!  Take advantage!

The Academy of Motion Pictures Arts and Sciences, 8949 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, CA, 90211.

http://www.oscars.org/events-exhibitions/index.html

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FAVES, no particular order

Directed by James Ivory, Costume Design Jenny Beavan, 1985

Directed by Jack Clayton, Costume Design Theoni V. Aldredge, 1974

Directed by Sally Potter, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1992

Direct by Arthur Penn, Costume Design Theadora Van Runkle, 1967

Directed by Iain Softley, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1997

Directed by Wong Kar Wai, Costume Design William Chang, 2000

Directed by Paul Thomas Anderson, Costume Design Mark Bridges, 2007

Directed by Cary Joji Fukanaga, Costume Design Michael O'Connor 2011

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