Trainspotting

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Let’s take a trip in the way-back machine to 1996. Guys still wore their jeans baggy, or at least loose. Biggie on the charts with two dudes doing the Macarena, and Alanis singing about how ironic things are. Or were they? They just seemed like coincidences, bad luck, not irony, but what ev.

Then comes Danny Boyle‘s “Trainspotting,” that pierced the zeitgeist and surged into our veins like a hit of heroin. Bursting with energy and style in every frame, it ironically made the gritty life of a junkie look glamorous/rebellious to the naive teens of Scotland, and made drug use soar in its aftermath. Heroin chic, indeed.

Very skinny jeans, and gray not blue. Ewan McGregor.

Shrunken fitted top, on a straight male, go figure. Love the poster behind him. Mark Renton is cocked and loaded. Ewan McGregor.

I just like how Boyle framed this shot. The red reflections in the puddle, nice touch. Ewan McGregor and Kelly Macdonald.

Again, nice composition. It’s also an invitation to Diane’s world. Even though she’s jailbait, she’s more mature than Mark, and she’s the one to prod him into maturity, wanting more out of life than the next hit. Kelly Macdonald.

 

This is where Mark gives his, “It’s shite being Scottish,” speech. He’s speaking of not having a future and hating his present. One can see beauty and purity or desolation and isolation in this landscape. Ewan McGregor, Ewen Bremner, Jonny Lee Miller.

Spud’s eyewear could either be retro hip hop or retro new wave. Ewen Bremner.

The off kilter perspective tells you Mark is changing directions. He now embraces being “one of us,” happy yuppie consumers. He’s also wearing the denim leisure suit, but not matchy-matchy, and shrunken. The jacket is dark blue and the pants are grey, makes it modern and not so 70’s. Ewan McGregor.

Costume designer, Rachael Fleming, stayed within the confines of their socioeconomic level, but gave each clothes that reflected their personality. And now, skinny jeans are the jean of choice.

The Wings of the Dove

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Based on the Henry James novel of the same name, “The Wings of the Dove,” directed by Iain Softley, 1997, tells the tale of a love triangle between Kate, Helena Bonham Carter, Merton, Linus Roache, and Millie, Alison Elliot.  The impeccable costumes were designed by powerhouse, Sandy Powell.

The year is 1910, and the London elite clothed in the oriental-inspired finery by Paul Poiret, luxuriate in peace, before World War I befalls Europe.  Exoticism abounds, rich colors, Art Nouveau influences, feminine lines, softness are the trends of the day.

Kate with her patron, Aunt Maude, primping her for a society party. Charlotte Rampling and Helena in costume, the heart stops.

Beautiful lace embellishments and layers make for a comfortable but suitable night look.

Here's the back.

Maybe I'm just a minimalist at heart, but I love her dressing gown and long flowing hair as an evening look.

Love the angled jacket hem.

How fun is this hat?!

From the side, the feathers are fab.

Jewel tones and lux fabrics. Kate's (Helena's) jacket doesn't look like much sitting down. But wait...

Helena's stunning peacock jacket from behind.

Love the shoulder strap detail.

Now, I'm not usually a fan of men in velvet jackets, but somehow he manages to make it look sexy.

Lots of delicate, covetable jewelry in this film.

More great earrings.

Rich colors and sleeve details.

Again, another pretty dressing gown robe that could be translated for day now.

Painstakingly dyed top layer worn over silk.

This in-between era, between Edwardian in England, (Belle Epoque still rages on the continent) and Art Deco, is so rich in detail and femininity, it’s becoming my favorite.  The film itself has flaws, but the costumes are perfection.

Chicks with Guns

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No, it’s not an upcoming summer blockbuster.  It’s a new book of photos from Lindsay McCrum.

The gun debate is such a charged and heated one in this country, it’s refreshing and eye-opening to see it framed (no pun intended) in a non-confrontational way.  This post takes neither side, just want to tell you about how evocative the photos are.  Each photo tells a compelling story, strikes a balance of between sweetness of the subjects and the subtle deadly force of the weapon.

As a writer, you could write a film or book with this image as a spark.  As a designer, you could play with the balance of feminine and masculine, soft, hard, protective and vulnerable, danger and safety.

http://www.chickswithgunsbook.com/

Gaultier in Dallas

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The Dallas Museum of Art is one of two U.S. cities that will be showing his work.  Comprised of more than 140 haute couture and ready-to-wear pieces from the 1970’s to the present.  And yes, Madonna’s cone bra will be waiting for you.  It shows there till February 12th, 2012, then onto the de Young in SF in March.  Thank God it’s coming to the west coast!

http://www.dallasmuseumofart.org/View/Gaultier/index.htm

Check out the museum shop.  Gaultier totes, hats, umbrellas, tees…

So cute!

Lust, Caution

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Set in Shanghai during WWII, “Lust, Caution,” directed by Ang Lee, 2007, is a marvel of restraint. Wang Jiazhi, played by Wei Tang, gets swept up in a wave of patriotism and activism that ultimately **SPOILER ALERT **destroys her.  Coveted costumes by Lai Pan.

Wang goes undercover to seduce and entrap Mr. Yee, played meticulously by Tony Leung Chiu Wai. Mr. Yee collaborates with the Japanese occupiers to mercilessly silence the resistance. Along the way Mr. Yee falls in love with Wang, and Wang, against her will, falls in love with Mr. Yee.

The film is plotted brilliantly and at first you think that Mr. Yee is going to get his just desserts, but he is saved by Wang who ultimately cannot let him be killed.

Be forewarned, there is some freaky deaky sex here. Tony Leung is not the sweet forlorn Tony Leung in “Chungking Express,” he is a hardened, masochistic, soulless being. It’s not gratuitous, it’s to show the evolution of the relationship. At first Mr. Yee practically assaults her, she is just something to be conquered and humiliated in his eyes. Next, it becomes more like mutual lust. Lastly, Wang succumbs to her growing feelings and makes love to him, and his hardened heart softens and lets her in. The bedroom is the only place they can let down their guard safely.

Ok, so let’s talk about the clothes. Shanghai has always fascinated me. It’s always been a diverse city because of it’s trading stature. Russians, Middle Eastern people, Americans, Europeans have always lived there and established businesses there. The people living there adopt things from other cultures that they like giving the nature of the clothes a truly modern mashup of influences.

I love that Ang Lee opens with this Mah Jong game. Mah Jong is a way to pass leisure time. These women haven't a care in the world as their country is being torn apart. He conveys it all by them playing this game, with perfectly manicured nails.

You know a film is gonna be a good reference when the extras look this good. Love the huge clutch.

Wang and her wonderful hat and trench.

Maybe it's my narrow exposure to Chinese fashion, but I'd never seen a striped cheongsam. Doesn't it make it soo fresh? It melds the European and Chinese aesthetic perfectly.

Love the graphic scarf against that rich color.

It's damp and raining, and she still looks perfectly turned out.

I need to find a great rain hat like this.

Here it is from the back, gives you full coverage. And look at that cute bow.

I don't know if the lace is her slip or if it's trim on her hem, but I love the look.

Here she is again with that great hat and trench, this time with large clutch. I think I need to get one of those.

**SPOILER ALERT** At the end, Wang realizes the price of her mercy to Yee as she and her friends stare down an endless abyss that is to be their grave.  It shows you that in the fog of war, an act of humanity can cost you your life.

If you’re designing for FALL, this would make a great springboard.

HOMEWORK: find a great trench and rain hat. Let’s put our umbrellas in storage.

LA Auto Show 2011

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I went to the auto show yesterday. Now, I’m from Anchorage, AK, we don’t have auto shows up there, and all the years I’ve lived in LA I’ve never gone. I mean seriously, paying $ to see cars? Don’t get me wrong, I love a hot car, but this is LA, hot cars (and girls) are everyone. So ubiquitous, that it’s not that big a deal (to me.) So, I went. I have to say, it was pretty cool.

We did have a purpose. My mother-in-law needs a new car and we checked out the new models, sat in them, tried them on for size. But I was mainly interested in the presentation, and the new direction. After all, it is sorta a fashion show for cars, right? New colors, lines, redesigns, etc.

Honda's F1 car. Form, function, design, performance.

Kia, in my humble opinon, did the best merchandising. Right product (styling, options), right price, (inexpensive relatively speaking), right time (recession), for their customer (urban, young men). They collaborated with West Coast Customs on a few cars, and the new products look pretty dope.

Plaid, wood interior.

Back seat, step down knick knack holders.

Old school video game, turntable, and a little bit of mother nature for that California boy.

They did a Michelle Wie car. Michelle Wie is a young women's golfer. While a stretch, I think this is their attempt at getting urban/sporty girls attention.

This is a hot car. It's also electric with a 154 mile range. It has two engines on each front and rear axles. It goes from 0-62 in 4.8 seconds. F**k you, big oil. Your days are numbered if they keep making cars like this.

I must say, I do like Audis. I know BMW's drive better, but these always look better.

BMW's new i, all electric vehicles.

The future is here.

Disneyland Grand Californian Hotel

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We took the little guy to Disneyland for turkey day. We made a pit stop in the lobby of this hotel for his nap. Modeled after the Arts and Crafts movement in California, it’s grand and welcoming with beautiful pottery and metal work on display.

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A print hanging on a wall. Lovely.

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A wall sconce by the elevators.

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Love the colors and details.

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Reminiscent of Belle Epoque drawings.

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It's hard to see in this photo, but the background is iridescent, like mother of pearl.

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Book cover.

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Another book cover. Love the handmade feel of it.

And not a dwarf or mouse in sight.

Polly Platt

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The Academy just had a reunion of the cast from “The Last Picture Show,” and it reminded me that I haven’t mentioned her yet.  And shame on me.

Polly Platt was a multi-hyphenate before that was common.  She wore many hats exceedingly well.  She started out as a costume designer, but she had talent to spare.  She wrote screenplays, “Pretty Baby,” was a production designer, “Last Picture Show,” “Paper Moon,” was an art director, “Terms of Endearment,” and a producer “Broadcast News.”  Doing all that at such a high level is rare.  Rarer still, is the fact she was doing all this in the late 60’s – 80’s when women in these jobs were scarce.

Polly convinced Bogdonavich that the novel, The Last Picture Show would make a great film.  Even suggesting to shoot it like a European observing America.

Timothy Bottoms, Jeff Bridges.  Columbia Pictures, 1971.

She suggested casting Cybil Shepard (which made Shepard a star and Polly divorced.)  She suggested moving the plot for “Paper Moon,” to the Kansas dust bowl and casting Tatum O’Neal (for which Tatum won an Oscar at age 10, youngest ever.)

As an executive VP at Gracie Films, she showed producer James L. Brooks Matt Groening’s comic strip Life in Hell and brought him in to develop something for the Tracey Ullman show.  That became “The Simpsons,” which is in its 23rd (!!!) season.  It’s not just her exquisite taste, but she really had a sixth sense for what would work.

http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0686895/

January 29, 1939 – July 27, 2011

A pioneer, a gutsy visionary, and a nurturing mentor.  A woman after my own heart.  When I grow up, I wanna be Polly Platt.

Jon Hamm

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Even with taking a year off (protracted negotiations ate into the shooting schedule) everyone is STILL talking about the fashion of “Mad Men.”  Which is something considering the show is in its 5th season, and fashion has the attention span of a gnat.

There are whole sites dedicated to the show and its fashions, but I just wanted to post some pix of Jon Hamm since I’m jonesing for new episodes.

Yeah, he’s an ass, but…

Wow. I love that he went with this mauvey shirt. That color looks great on him.

Photo by Norman Jean Roy.
Photo by Norman Jean Roy.  (I’m making that tiger purring noise.)

Much has been written about his throwback good looks: the square jaw, the maturity, the sheer masculinity of him.  No guyliner.  No tribal tattoos.  No goddamn Affliction t-shirts (that are lame on a 17 year-old, much less a 40 year-old trying too hard.)

He reminds me of Gary Cooper, tall handsome, and looks great in clothes.  Ever have a friend who throws on any ‘ol thing and looks fantastic?  That’s what I’m talking about.  It’s really not about the clothes (although having great taste doesn’t hurt), it’s about their attitude, and the easy confidence they project.

Coincidentally, there’s a new book about Cooper’s style, Gary Cooper: Enduring Style, by G. Bruce Boyer (a fashion writer of 35 years) and Maria Cooper Janis (Gary’s daughter.)  It’s chock full of never-before-seen photos of her dapper daddy.

http://www.powerhousebooks.com/site/?p=7389

Happy Thanksgiving!!!

Dark Eden

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You either evolve or die.  People keep saying books are choking, sputtering, dying a slow death.  Books are not dying.  1) Because we won’t let them, because people still love reading a book, 2) Because they’re evolving, mutating, adapting to the tech saturated life that is the 21st century.

Patrick Carman’s Dark Eden can be bought as a traditional book, but also can be read with a app that enhances Carman’s written word.  You can even buy it chapter by chapter with a app for each chapter.

When you were a kid, and you read, say Grimm’s Fairytales.  When you got to the picture page, didn’t you just drink in every detail of the illustration?  Even though you had pictures in your mind’s eye, didn’t a beautifully rendering drawing really illuminate the scene for you?  I think this hybrid is that childhood experience on steroids.

I’m sure Dark Eden will be the next Hunger Games.

http://enterdarkeden.com/home/

Why put this on a so-called fashion/film site?  Think about how this process can add or illuminate your own work, whether you’re a writer, designer, photographer, etc.