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Category Archives: Men

Stone Roses reunion

20 Tuesday Dec 2011

Posted by Angie in Men, Rock Stars

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Stone Roses

Really?  It can’t be.  It is?  Then I exploded into a million bits of confetti.  I wasn’t obsessed with Ian Brown, but I did think he was quite cute.  He said he wanted to be adored and he was!  The best hair of the 90’s.  I loved their sound, 60’s mod through an acid/ecstasy-laced Madchester filter.  Jon Squire’s swirling guitar, part funk, part rave, all joy of being in your 20’s, drunk, dancing and staying out late.  I loved their look, modish haircuts + soccer hooligan swagger.

Wasn't he soooo cute?

Those anoraks, I think, paved the way for the Gallagher bros look, don’t you think?  If they didn’t get trapped in legal quicksand, Nirvana would’ve never happened.  They’d be some little post-punk band in Seattle doing their thing, still great but not blowin’ up, the biggest band of the decade great.  Britpop filled the void, with Blur and Oasis taking their place. Nothing against them, but their sound wasn’t as original, or genre bending as the Stone Roses.

Don't know when this was taken. But long shag looks good on him too.

Present day. You can tell they sure did party like rock stars.

Anyway, the tickets are as hard to come by as a Willy Wonka Golden Ticket, so good luck music fans.

P.S. It’s been said that David Beckham begged the band to get back together, and the boys being rabid Manchester United fans, acquiesced.  So two thanks to Becks, 1) For bringing the MLS cup to LA, 2) for reuniting the Stone Roses.  That guy really has the touch.

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In the Mood for Love

15 Thursday Dec 2011

Posted by Angie in 1960's, Men, Women

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Christopher Doyle, Maggie Cheung, Tony Leung Chiu-Wai, William Chang, Wong Kar-wai

Hong Kong, 1962. Mr. Chow, Tony Leung Chiu Wai, and Mrs. Chan, Maggie Cheung are neighbors in a noisy Hong Kong apartment building.  Their spouses work late, or are out of town a lot so naturally they start spending time with each other.  It becomes painfully obvious to them that their spouses are having an affair.  Saddened, but self-righteous, they vow not to be like their cheatin’ spouses.  They never consummate their love for each other, just luxuriate in the sexual tension.

I think this is Wong Kar-Wai‘s best film.  What can I say?  I’m a sucker for a plot.  With music I love a great hook and melody, too.  I guess I’m a traditionalist.  The story moves slowly, deliberately, to its unrequited end.

It’s beautifully, cleverly shot by oft-imitated, hugely influential Christopher Doyle (who also had a mad crush on Maggie Cheung.)  Atmospheric without being indulgent.  OK maybe a few cliches like, slow mo shots of the rain, and billowing smoke.  But with him behind the camera, it feels fresh.  Many shots from behind objects, around corners, through windows, over shoulders, as if we’re spying on them.  Gives their relationship an illicit feel.

But let’s talk about the clothes!  My God watching Maggie Cheung makes me wanna diet.  She’s so tall and slim, everything looks divine on her.  And let’s not leave out Tong Leung.  First of all, what a handsome guy.  And second of all, putting him in the 60’s suits and ties really does it for me.  This was the “Mad Men” look more than a decade before “Mad Men” with a dash of Hong Kong flavor.

Love the print on this cheongsam.

See? Put that cupcake down if you ever want to look this thin.

The first furtive glance between them.

Great vintage tie.

I'm not sure if this is a knit or woven pattern, but I love it. Sort of a vertical Missoni. Notice the front of the collar is black.

Notice the back of the collar flows into the bodice. They matched it to the back like wallpaper.

Is she not the chicest secretary ever?

Couldn't get a good shot of his tie. But you get the idea.

Again, not sure if this is a knit or woven pattern. I think probably a woven, since they're usually made from wovens. In any case, I love the pattern.

Here's a longer shot.

Lime green! So fresh.

Another great tie.

Even her older boss has a great tie. Aren't these the best widths? Not too skinny, not too fat.

First of all, I love stripes, so this had me at first look. Secondly, it's sheer. Something different.

They cross paths, avert their eyes. Violins sing longingly in the background.  Nat King Cole croons in Spanish, gives it a European feel.  The music sounds romantic, sultry when they’re together, plaintive and melancholy when only one of them is seen.  The instrumental music also reminds me of the music in “Room with a View” when Lucy, Charlotte and Ms. Lavish walk around Florence.  Even the stuccoed buildings look vaguely Italian.

I love men in a light grey suit, don't you? With a pocket square, no less.

Together, alone.

She's helping him write a martial arts serial. She gets stuck inside his apartment while the noisy neighbors play mah jong in the common area. She dare not leave or everyone will know what they're (not) up to.

They role play. He pretends to be her husband, she "confronts" him about his mistress. Another great tie.

Beautiful, graphic, floral.

Even better with the red coat.

Just a great shot.

I love that this is a solid, but with a bit of floral detail at the edge. Unexpected and lovely.

This to me is the shot that sums up the movie. They are waiting out the storm in their marriages, taking comfort with each other. She can't even bring herself to use his umbrella (accepting him) for fear of others gossiping (submissive to society's rules.)

A classic!  Costume design by William Chang.  This dude also edited it and did the production design (unless there are three different William Changs working on this.)  That explains the consistency of the look of the film.  But no one thinks about William Chang, only how wonderful this Wong Kar Wai film is.

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Trainspotting

08 Thursday Dec 2011

Posted by Angie in 1990's, Men

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Danny Boyle, Ewan McGregor, Ewen Bremner, Irvine Welsh, Jonny Lee Miller, Kelly Macdonald, Trainspotting

Let’s take a trip in the way-back machine to 1996. Guys still wore their jeans baggy, or at least loose. Biggie on the charts with two dudes doing the Macarena, and Alanis singing about how ironic things are. Or were they? They just seemed like coincidences, bad luck, not irony, but what ev.

Then comes Danny Boyle‘s “Trainspotting,” that pierced the zeitgeist and surged into our veins like a hit of heroin. Bursting with energy and style in every frame, it ironically made the gritty life of a junkie look glamorous/rebellious to the naive teens of Scotland, and made drug use soar in its aftermath. Heroin chic, indeed.

Very skinny jeans, and gray not blue. Ewan McGregor.

Shrunken fitted top, on a straight male, go figure. Love the poster behind him. Mark Renton is cocked and loaded. Ewan McGregor.

I just like how Boyle framed this shot. The red reflections in the puddle, nice touch. Ewan McGregor and Kelly Macdonald.

Again, nice composition. It’s also an invitation to Diane’s world. Even though she’s jailbait, she’s more mature than Mark, and she’s the one to prod him into maturity, wanting more out of life than the next hit. Kelly Macdonald.

 

This is where Mark gives his, “It’s shite being Scottish,” speech. He’s speaking of not having a future and hating his present. One can see beauty and purity or desolation and isolation in this landscape. Ewan McGregor, Ewen Bremner, Jonny Lee Miller.

Spud’s eyewear could either be retro hip hop or retro new wave. Ewen Bremner.

The off kilter perspective tells you Mark is changing directions. He now embraces being “one of us,” happy yuppie consumers. He’s also wearing the denim leisure suit, but not matchy-matchy, and shrunken. The jacket is dark blue and the pants are grey, makes it modern and not so 70’s. Ewan McGregor.

Costume designer, Rachael Fleming, stayed within the confines of their socioeconomic level, but gave each clothes that reflected their personality. And now, skinny jeans are the jean of choice.

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The Wings of the Dove

04 Sunday Dec 2011

Posted by Angie in 1910's, Men, Women

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1910's fashions, Alison Elliot, Belle Epoque, Helena Bonham Carter, Henry James, Iain Softley, Linus Roache, Sandy Powell

Based on the Henry James novel of the same name, “The Wings of the Dove,” directed by Iain Softley, 1997, tells the tale of a love triangle between Kate, Helena Bonham Carter, Merton, Linus Roache, and Millie, Alison Elliot.  The impeccable costumes were designed by powerhouse, Sandy Powell.

The year is 1910, and the London elite clothed in the oriental-inspired finery by Paul Poiret, luxuriate in peace, before World War I befalls Europe.  Exoticism abounds, rich colors, Art Nouveau influences, feminine lines, softness are the trends of the day.

Kate with her patron, Aunt Maude, primping her for a society party. Charlotte Rampling and Helena in costume, the heart stops.

Beautiful lace embellishments and layers make for a comfortable but suitable night look.

Here's the back.

Maybe I'm just a minimalist at heart, but I love her dressing gown and long flowing hair as an evening look.

Love the angled jacket hem.

How fun is this hat?!

From the side, the feathers are fab.

Jewel tones and lux fabrics. Kate's (Helena's) jacket doesn't look like much sitting down. But wait...

Helena's stunning peacock jacket from behind.

Love the shoulder strap detail.

Now, I'm not usually a fan of men in velvet jackets, but somehow he manages to make it look sexy.

Lots of delicate, covetable jewelry in this film.

More great earrings.

Rich colors and sleeve details.

Again, another pretty dressing gown robe that could be translated for day now.

Painstakingly dyed top layer worn over silk.

This in-between era, between Edwardian in England, (Belle Epoque still rages on the continent) and Art Deco, is so rich in detail and femininity, it’s becoming my favorite.  The film itself has flaws, but the costumes are perfection.

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Jon Hamm

22 Tuesday Nov 2011

Posted by Angie in Books, Men

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G. Bruce Boyer, Gary Cooper, Gary Cooper Enduring Style, Jon Hamm, Maria Cooper Janis

Even with taking a year off (protracted negotiations ate into the shooting schedule) everyone is STILL talking about the fashion of “Mad Men.”  Which is something considering the show is in its 5th season, and fashion has the attention span of a gnat.

There are whole sites dedicated to the show and its fashions, but I just wanted to post some pix of Jon Hamm since I’m jonesing for new episodes.

Yeah, he’s an ass, but…

Wow. I love that he went with this mauvey shirt. That color looks great on him.

Photo by Norman Jean Roy.
Photo by Norman Jean Roy.  (I’m making that tiger purring noise.)

Much has been written about his throwback good looks: the square jaw, the maturity, the sheer masculinity of him.  No guyliner.  No tribal tattoos.  No goddamn Affliction t-shirts (that are lame on a 17 year-old, much less a 40 year-old trying too hard.)

He reminds me of Gary Cooper, tall handsome, and looks great in clothes.  Ever have a friend who throws on any ‘ol thing and looks fantastic?  That’s what I’m talking about.  It’s really not about the clothes (although having great taste doesn’t hurt), it’s about their attitude, and the easy confidence they project.

Coincidentally, there’s a new book about Cooper’s style, Gary Cooper: Enduring Style, by G. Bruce Boyer (a fashion writer of 35 years) and Maria Cooper Janis (Gary’s daughter.)  It’s chock full of never-before-seen photos of her dapper daddy.

http://www.powerhousebooks.com/site/?p=7389

Happy Thanksgiving!!!

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Happy Halloween!

31 Monday Oct 2011

Posted by Angie in 1890's, 1930's, Men, Women

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Barry Levinson, Dracula, Francis Ford Coppola, Glenn Close, Halloween, Robert Redford, Sadie Frost, The Natural

Two best things about October, 1) the World Series, and 2) Halloween.

There are lots of baseball movies, and I love them all from “Major League,” “A League of Their Own” (I worked on that film as an extras casting asst. while I was in film school), and “Eight Men Out.”  But stylistically, “The Natural,” stands out.  Directed by Barry Levinson in 1984, it does a terrific job of elevating ballplayers and baseball to mythic proportions.  Robert Redford still doing the leading man thing, and doing it well, Kim Basinger as the dangerous moll, and Glenn Close, the sweet-looking home town girl.

Redford gives Brad Pitt a run for his money.

Her sunlit hat is a beacon of Roy's past perfection, and the promises of his youth.

Dracula.  What is it about this character that continues to fascinate and inspire?  The latest iteration being the “Twilight” series.  In 1992, Francis Ford Coppola, no less tackled the adaptation of Bram Stoker’s “Dracula” with mixed results.  One image I still remember is Lucy’s wedding gown.

Eiko Ishioka was the Costume Designer, but professionally, she’s done it all.  She was one of the best graphic designers in Japan, she won a Grammy for a Miles Davis album cover.  She was promoted to Creative Director at the top ad agency in the 1970’s when there weren’t many women in that position.  She then turned to production and costume design.  In 1988, she won a Tony for Best Scenic Design and Best Costume Design for “M. Butterfly.”  Her latest work is in the new Broadway “Spiderman.”

She’s known for her avantgarde/sensual designs, which made her a perfect match for “Bram Stoker’s Dracula.”  She won the Oscar that year for her showstopping work.

From the back, Lucy played by Sadie Frost.

This collar was so over-the-top and unexpected. I remembering hearing gasps from the audience. In a funny way, it also foreshadows Lucy's beheading, by making her head seem detatched from her body.

Macabre but beautiful glass coffin.

Undead Lucy looks like a frightful angel with the winged headdress and dressed in white lace.

Eiko is so amazing I think I’ll have to devote a whole post to her.

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Jane Eyre, 2011

11 Tuesday Oct 2011

Posted by Angie in 1850's, Men, Women

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Adriano Goldman, Amelia Clarkson, Cary Fukunaga, collars, Costume Designer, cuffs, Dario Marianelli, gloves, Helmut Lang, Holliday Grainger, Jamie Bell, Jane Eyre, mens coat, Mia Wasikowska, shoes, sleeves, Tamzin Merchant

This version of “Jane Eyre”, Directed by Cary Joji Fukunaga, Director of Photography, Adriano Goldman, Costume Designer, Michael O’Connor, and Music by Dario Marianelli, seduces you in a cold, windy, embrace.  Beautifully shot, paired with evocative music, plus so many clothing details, I could hardly keep up.

The main takeaway is COLLARS.  So many delicate, artful collars, I couldn’t see anything else.  I don’t know if they were lace, embroidered linen or cotton voile, but just that they were exquisite.  You could use these for a light, prim, detail in a spring collection featuring linen and cotton shifts.  You don’t need any jewelry with collars like these.

Jane Eyre 2011 Holliday Grainger

Don’t you love her little bow brooch?

Jane Eyre 2011 Mia Wasikowska

I love this shot because she’s talking about being trapped and not only is she framed in a window, but the window panes act as a prison cell.

Jane Eyre 2011 Mia Wasikowska

Another great collar.

Jane Eyre 2011 Mia Wasikowska

And another.

Here are some great collar and cuff combos.  Why don’t people make a nice, lacy or embroidered cuff anymore?  It’s perfect for winter, wear it under your fave solid wool/cashmere sweater.  It adds a splash of femininity to something otherwise unisex.

Jane Eyre 2011 Tamzin Merchant

OMG how fun is this cuff?  Double layered and belled! And the collar is such a whimsical shape.

Jane Eyre 2011 Mia Wasikowska and Judi Dench

I love the little tie at the collar.

Jane Eyre 2011 Mia Wasikowska

The sleeve details, tight, pleated, layered in contrast to the full skirts give you a sense of how restrained all the women in this period are.

Jane Eyre 2011 Mia Wasikowska sleeve

A closer look at the sleeve.

The layered sleeves make me want to make fitted wool blazers or pea coats.

Jane Eyre 2011 scalloped sleeve Tamzin Merchant

How cute is this sleeve detail on her shoulder? Imagine it being on a felted wool pea coat? The vertical, hanging necklace is hard to see, and seems a little out of place, it’s almost like a noose around her neck, but I like it.

Jane Eyre 2011 Amelia Clarkson school uniform

Young Jane’s school uni made me think of Helmut Lang in the mid 90’s. Imagine it in black over a white shirt. So cool.

Jane Eyre 2011 Amelia Clarkson school uniform back

The back.

Jane Eyre 2011 Amelia Clarkson shoes

Jane’s shoes are the last vestige of her privileged upbringing. Crafty oxfords, please someone make these.

Jane Eyre 2011 Mia Wasikowska mesh gloves

Grey, mesh, fingerless gloves?! Gimme!

As for the the men, Mr. Rochester is a dandy when the mood suits him, but St. John, played by a grown up Jamie Bell, is always dressed in stark black and white.  I love the contrast of the soft, white, thin cravat with the bulky, black and stiff vest, coat and overcoat.

Jane Eyre 2011 Jamie Bell

This stiff, almost waxed overcoat serves as a type of emotional armor.

Jane Eyre 2011 Jamie Bell

Check out the nice, wide collar from the back. If it were a waxed cotton, it would be selling out in an All Saints shop

All in all, this version surprised me by how stunning it was visually and aurally.  Mr. Rochester always stuns me… Hello?  Sexual harassment!  But it is a classic tome, sure to be remade again, and again, but probably won’t look as cool.  Tremendous job, Michael O’Connor.

http://focusfeatures.com/jane_eyre

Jane Eyre poster. From IMDB.

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Rock Stars

27 Tuesday Sep 2011

Posted by Angie in 1970's, Men, Rock Stars, Women

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Bob Gruen, John Lennon NYC shirt, Rock music, Rock Stars

They do moonlight as actors sometimes or in docs but there’s no denying their influence on fashion as a cultural force; on the masses and designers.  The swagger, the creativity and unique style they project is something to respect.  And seriously, who looks better in flared jeans, you or Robert Plant?

I ran across this slideshow on Yahoo.

John Lennon New York City T-shirt Bob Gruen

John Lennon.  Photo: Bob Gruen

He’s a well known rock photog, and it’s from his new book Rock Seen.  He took this iconic shot of Lennon.

Related articles
  • Rock Seen, A Book by Legendary Rock & Roll Photographer Bob Gruen (laughingsquid.com)

Homework: Rock out with your c**k out.  I mean that figuratively, of course.  Don’t get arrested, although that is really rock star.  But seriously, try tailoring your jeans.  Buy some vintage Levi’s that fit your waist and tailor the rest.  Make it bootcut, straight or skinny, but make sure that waist fits (no muffin tops!!!) and the rise is comfy (no cameltoe!!!).

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A Room with a View

24 Saturday Sep 2011

Posted by Angie in 1900's, Men, Women

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1900's England, 1900's Italy, A Room with a View (film), E. M. Forster, Edwardian, film costumes, Helena Bonham Carter, Ismail Merchant, James Ivory, Jenny Beavan, Judi Dench, Julian Sands, Maggie Smith, Merchant Ivory Productions

“A Room with a View” is my favorite film.  I first saw it in high school when it came out and loved it ever since. It is perfect. The acting, direction, production design, music, and a perfectly balanced story: drama, comedy and romance!  What more could a girl want?

Maggie Smith Judi Dench A Room with a View

The high Edwardian collars and nipped waists with long flared skirts… See how great Judi Dench and Maggie Smith look, even as “women of a certain age,” in this era.

Maggie Smith Judi Dench A Room with a View

See Maggie Smith’s belt? Such a fantastic detail giving a clue to her character’s unfulfilled desire to live with more passion.

Helena Bonham Carter A Room with a View

The lace laid shawl-like over the blouse is a beauty.

A Room with a View Helena Bonham Carter Julian Sands

Their eyes lock over a sea of wild grasses.

A Room with a View Helena Bonham Carter Maggie Smith

Lucy’s dressing gown is to die for. Imagine sewing all those lace panels?! The costumes and hair play up the contrast of these two personalities, young, independent, against, older, prim, constrained by society’s expectations.

A Room with a View Helena Bonham Carter Daniel Day-Lewis

Is this fantastic or what? And look at that waist!

A Room with a View Helena Bonham Carter braid

She looks so sweet with that gorgeous thick braid and jacket.

 Isabella Cellani A Room with a View

This young lady’s image has always stayed with me. Her layered collar, full sleeves and beautifully rustic hair are magic.

 Isabella Cellani A Room with a View

Her braid from the back is exquisite.

Daniel Day-Lewis A Room with a View

The men look great too. Daniel Day-Lewis at his sourpuss best. Stiff collar, stiffer personality.

A Room with a View Julian Sands suspenders

And what can I say about Julian Sands? Never looked finer than in this film. His comfortable bohemian, free-thinking fellow allows himself to say what he feels and go for love above all else. Love the braces (suspenders)!

Director James Ivory, and producer Ismail Merchant are in a class by themselves.  Merchant Ivory films stand the test of time. Costume Designer, Jenny Beavan did a marvelous job with this one.  So many great details to choose from, I had to narrow it down.

PLEASE DON’T REMAKE IT!  Why mess with perfection?

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FAVES, no particular order

Directed by James Ivory, Costume Design Jenny Beavan, 1985

Directed by Jack Clayton, Costume Design Theoni V. Aldredge, 1974

Directed by Sally Potter, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1992

Direct by Arthur Penn, Costume Design Theadora Van Runkle, 1967

Directed by Iain Softley, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1997

Directed by Wong Kar Wai, Costume Design William Chang, 2000

Directed by Paul Thomas Anderson, Costume Design Mark Bridges, 2007

Directed by Cary Joji Fukanaga, Costume Design Michael O'Connor 2011

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