Diana Vreeland: “The Eye Has to Travel”

Tags

, , ,

Before there was Anna Wintour, there was D.V.  Diana Vreeland ruled Vogue with an iron fist, albeit one clad in jewels and velvet.  I think she’s the one who said, “More is more.”  She directed Vogue that way, steering through the tumultuous 60’s and 70’s, in an explosion of art, color, revealing skin, newly realized feminine power, and diversity.  Capturing the popular, cultural zeitgeist like no other since.  Editors these days don’t have the vision or the balls to do what she did.  She pushed for not just ethnic diversity, preferring personality over perfection.  Lauren Hutton and her gap-tooth smile as one example.

Diana Vreeland The Eye Has to Travel

It’s a book and a doc. The doc is in limited release now. The book is over 350 pages of fantastic images that any would-be magazine editor, fashion designer, stylist, photographer, graphic designer should run out and buy.

And to think, she didn’t start her magazine career till she was in her 30’s and didn’t land the Vogue gig till she was in her 60’s.  Let all us late-boomers take heart.

I Love Your Style

Tags

, ,

A great go-to book by Amanda Brooks to help you solidify your look, or get you to try a new one.  It’s full of IT girls, cool girls, chic girls, all of them AB FAB and inspirational.

It’s also a great pictorial reference book for you young-uns just learning the style icon vernacular.

I love your style amanda brooks

She also has a blog: http://iloveyourstyle.com/

Closet App

Tags

For the supremely organized (not me)… The Closet App lets you take pictures of everything in your closet.  You can then mix it up planning outfits for every day of that week or month.  So when you’re in that morning fog, staring into your closet, you won’t have to waste precious morning time trying to cobble together a look.  It’s also handy for planning a trip, or filling holes in your arsenal of chic.

Closet App

Closet App. Free on iphone and ipad.

http://closetapp.com/#

 

L’Avventura

Tags

, , , , ,

Michelangelo Antonioni’s, “L’Avventura,” was booed at it’s first screening at Cannes, in 1959. Such is the reaction to all things new and groundbreaking. The second screening fared much better, it was hailed as a genius work of art.

Anna, her boyfriend, Sandro, and best friend Claudia, go for a lovely boat ride one summer. Anna goes missing, and the boating party tries in vain to find her. Sandro and Claudia bond over the incident and start romantically seeing each other. Anna is never found, which begs the question, what happened to her? Which Antonioni never answers. It’s an art film. No tidy endings, people. It’s more like a meditation on love, life, and the transitory nature of it.

Anna’s father tells her Sandro will never marry her. Don’t you love his polka dot tie? Lea Massari and Renzo Ricci.

Anna’s simple dress is perfect for Spring/Summer. I love that there’s two ties at the waist. Monica Vitti and Lea Massari.

Anna fears losing Sandro, but simultaneously feels numb in her surroundings. This might reflect an Italian post-war sensibility. Intense feelings towards comforting emotions like love, but a numb psyche as a result of the recent WWII horrors, and unable to fully enjoy emotions like love.

Anna, Sandro, and Claudia embark on a short cruise.

l'avventura Monica Vitti

Love the deep V back of Claudia’s, (Monica Vitti) swimsuit.

l' avventura Italian fisherman's sweater

Love this Italian fisherman’s sweater.

l'avventura Lea Massari Gabriele Ferzetti

Anna has misgivings about getting married to Sandro. She wants him but at the same time, would be fine without him. She’s cornfused. This is the last we see of her.

Anna goes missing. Claudia, Sandro, and their friend Corrado stay on the island to continue searching for her. Claudia and Sandro develop an attraction to each other.

L'avventura Esmeralda Ruspoli Leilo Luttazzi Dominique Blanchar

This could be a Prada ad. Old Italian money + whimsy.

l'avventura 10

Antonioni is a master at framing. If I were a painter or photographer/DP, I’d be totally inspired by him.

l' avventura men's scarves

A study in Italian working-class men’s scarves and layering.

l' avventura Monica Vitti

Monica Vitti in repose. I love her shoes and that her sweater is not super fitted, but more blouse-like.

l' avventura Monica Vitti

It looks even better with a great handbag.

l' avventura Monica Vitti

Claudia, Monica Vitti, feels guilt for falling for Sandro. The ocean in the background remind you of Anna’s disappearance.

l' avventura

Antonioni goes out of his way to inject this little scene. This girl, Gloria Perkins, causes a near riot by walking around the city with a ripped side seam, exposing her undies and garter. The reporter Sandro sought out, explains it’s all a ruse to get some attention for herself and maybe a sucker willing to shell out big bucks to “date” her. Is Antonioni commenting on modern love being merely a transaction?

l'avventura monica vitti

I like that the ruffles are arranged on the chair framing Monica. It makes the frame more dynamic.

L'avventura Monica Vitti Esmeralda Ruspoli

Claudia dons one of Patrizia’s wigs, and looks like a certain missing girl.

L'avventura Monica Vitti

Polka dot suit + scarf. Serious, but fun.

L'avventura Monica Vitti

Interesting framing. Claudia’s double layered dress is too. Don’t see it being much for the masses though.

L'avventura Monica Vitti Gabriele Ferzetti

The last shot captures the theme of loneliness in love. Claudia fell in love with Sandro, then felt tremendous guilt for not wanting to find Anna. Sandro thinks he loves Claudia, but then gives in to his lust and hooks up with Gloria. Romantic love is difficult and complex and never is the answer to all of life’s problems. Claudia and Sandro are together but surrounded by emptiness.

Empty, desolate landscapes in natural and urban settings underscore the rudderless and lonely feelings of modern life.

The September Issue

Tags

, , ,

It’s heeeee-re.  And it’s a monster.  If you haven’t heard already, 4.5 lbs, or 916 pages.  Whoa.  USPS, I feel for you, brothers and sisters.

This is THE issue we all wait for all year.  But strangely enough it’s always the same, just different models.  Plaid, black, wools, leathers.  But who cares.  It’s a big-‘ol fantasy picture book.  And we love it.

Lady Gaga September Vogue 2012

Lady Gaga September Vogue 2012.

If you haven’t seen the doc, “The September Issue,” please do.  You can stream it on Netflix.  It shows the behind-the-scenes workings of putting this behemoth together.  Although short on hair-pulling confrontations, there is some creative tension that bubbles up in the form of eye rolls and general passive-aggressive sighs.

The September Issue documentary

The September Issue documentary, directed by R.J. Cutler.

RIP Tony Scott

Tags

, , ,

What a shock. I woke up this morning to hear that Tony Scott leaped to his death off the Vincent Thomas Bridge in San Pedro.  It reminded me about Leslie Cheung’s death (he too, leaped to his death, but off the Mandarian Oriental Hotel in HK.) and how shocking that was.  He was still producing hit TV shows and films, still directing his fast-paced action films.  It begs the question, why?  Why would someone with still so much to offer, consciously, deliberately, kill himself?  We can’t assume anything at this point.  We can only remember what he left behind.

He gained a Hollywood calling card with “The Hunger,” and blasted onto the A list, with “Top Gun.”  Both films were sexy and stylish.  He has been criticized throughout his career for choosing style over substance, but hey, he was the director, not the writer, so for me, he tried to make the material look as good as possible.

Him and his brother Ridley, were some of the first feature directors to come from the world of commercials.  That is oh-so common nowdays, Rupert Sanders (“Snow White and the Huntsman”) a recent example.  Their stuff was so graphic and sexy, it perfectly fit the 80’s look.

A lot is being made about the brothers relationship, and how he never got the respect Ridley gets, but who really knows how much that factors into all of this.  Since he’s producing partners with is brother, I’m sure their relationship is peachy keen.  As for not getting as much respect… There are many “respected” filmmakers who are living off chips and salsa, right now, envying a fat paycheck.  I’m sure Tony was OK with being a good, if not great director.  Even if he didn’t have Ridley’s caché, he certainly influenced a whole generation of testosterone-filled, amped up action directors.

Smoke and shafts of light. A Tony Scott trademark.

One hot shot, a muscle jet, and American flag draped in the background. Over the top? Why not, it’s a Tony Scott film. How big was this movie? Wingman, need for speed, is still peppered in everyday conversation.

He was 68. Photo: Gus Ruelas, AP.

 

 

 

Contempt

Tags

, , , ,

Jean-Luc Godard’s, “Contempt,” 1963, features the ever-gorgeous Brigitte Bardot and Michel Piccoli, as Camille and Paul Javal.  Paul is rewriting a film adaptation of Homer’s, The Odyssey, for producer Jeremy Prokosch, Jack Palance, and directed by none other than Fritz Lang (playing himself).  Paul sells out his writer’s integrity by trying to make it more commercial and his wife’s affection by basically handing her to Prokosch.

Ok, this has nothing to do with fashion, but isn’t Fritz’s monocle gangsta? Fritz Lang.

Here’s Paul saying, “No, you ride with him, I’ll take a cab.”  You can figure out the rest. Love Brigitte’s super wide headband. Brigitte Bardot, Michel Piccoli, and Jack Palance in the car.

Camille practices being a seductress. Playful or is it Godard’s comment on how easily we are seduced by her? Brigitte Bardot.

Pouty, sexy Brigitte Bardot.

A cute shot of her in a hat. Brigitte Bardot.

Here she is looking soooo different in a black wig. Brigitte Bardot.

On a trip to Capri Paul tells Camille to go on without him, again. Really? It’s sun-dappled Capri, your wife looks like Brigitte Bardot and you’re telling her to go have fun with another guy?

I love the full skirt with the pink pullover, demure, but on her, super sexy. Brigitte Bardot.

I’ve read that Bardot’s hair is the most referenced hair by uber hair stylists. The long bangs (fringe), volume on top, long, thick, somewhat bedroom tousled, is pretty much seen every season and in countless editorial shoots.

Brigitte Bardot.

Camille leaves Paul for Prokosch (Jack Palance?) Only in the movies.  Let’s just say it ends badly.

Brigitte Bardot and Jack Palance.

Film poster. From IMDB.

Vivre sa Vie

Tags

, , , ,

Jean-Luc Godard’s ,”Vivre Sa Vie,” 1962, Anna Karina, plays Nana, a down-on-her-luck aspiring actress who falls prey to the dangers of prostitution: moral, psychological, and physical turmoil.

Could be a Chanel ad if it were not so melancholy. Anna Karina.

Her bob and black and white outfits remind one of Uma Thurman’s Mia character in “Pulp Fiction.” Anna Karina.

The prim ruffled shirt, cardigan and skirt belie her new profession. Anna Karina.

Anna Karina.

The fur-trimmed coat is lovely. Anna Karina.

Choosing to shoot in black and white adds to the starkness of Nana’s reality.  At once, she looks innocent and deeply repentant.  Anna Karina.

Jean-Luc Godard, 1962.

A Woman is a Woman

Tags

, , ,

Jean-Luc Godard’s “A Woman is a Woman,” 1961, is his surprisingly light-hearted stab at romantic comedy/musical, but also trying to simultaneously subvert the genre.  Strippers having babies out of wedlock aren’t exactly subjects of bouncy Hollywood musicals.

Angela, his real-life wife Anna Karina, is a stripper who wants to have a baby.  Her boyfriend Emile doesn’t, but ridiculously suggests that she uses his friend Alfred, JP Belmondo, do the job.

Don’t know if it’s a “Singing in the Rain” reference with the umbrella (since it’s not raining), regardless it’s a nice pop of color. Anna Karina.

The white trench, black gloves, and red updo, tough and unexpectedly chic. Anna Karina.

Love that she has red tights, too.

She changes into her stripper costume. Anna Karina.

She does a little song. Anna Karina.

I love the thought of the sailor top as a jacket thrown over something super femme like this bustier. Anna Karina.

Her hair and makeup are super sweet. Anna Karina.

“A Woman is a Woman,” poster. Jean-Luc Godard.

James Bond Exhibition

Tags

, , , ,

For all you vacationing fashionéastes on a jaunt through Europe this summer, check out The Barbican Centre’s “50 Years of James Bond Style,” in London.  What pops into your mind when you think of Bond, James Bond?  Girls, gadgets, guns, and of course, sharp suits.

They have everything from sets, to props, to costumes.  Connery’s Savile Row tuxes, Brosnan’s Brioni suits, to Craig’s isty bitsy swim trunks.  They even made a life-size Jill Masterson, covered in deadly gold paint.

Yes, Pussy Galore is in this one. Subtle, non?

http://www.barbican.org.uk/bond/#info-tab