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The Fashionéaste

~ For lovers of fashion in film

The Fashionéaste

Monthly Archives: June 2012

Advanced Style by Ari Seth Cohen

28 Thursday Jun 2012

Posted by Angie in Books

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Advanced Style, Ari Seth Cohen, elderly people, Fashion, street fashion

Ari Seth Cohen turned his blog into a book. He has a thing for older ladies, albeit, stylish ones. And gents too. They can be eccentric or classic, just as long as they are expressing their own individuality.

I love one of the ladies’ quotes, “If everyone is wearing it, then it’s not for me.” Take that H&M! In a world of fast fashion, youth obsessed culture, it’s nice to see older folks with a wink and smile in their creative ensembles. We will all be this old one day, if we’re lucky. We can still march to the beat of our own drummer, in Red Wings or wing tips, you decide.

Who needs a stylist when you’re stylish? (Should be on a t-shirt, or at least a coffee mug.)

http://advancedstyle.blogspot.com/

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Nora Ephron RIP

27 Wednesday Jun 2012

Posted by Angie in R.I.P.

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Nora Ephron, When Harry Met Sally...

Boy, I was pretty surprised by this.  I saw her on Bill Maher’s “Real Time,” a couple of years ago and you would’ve never guessed she would be gone so soon.  She was one of the few successful female writer directors.  No niche, indie films, these were humongous, big bat swinging, box office hits, “When Harry Met Sally,” “Sleepless in Seattle” (I actually worked on that film!), “Julie and Julia.”

The classic rom-com, “When Harry Met Sally.” This set the bar for which all others are measured.

She did it with brains and wit.  She wasn’t some comely beauty that batted her eyes  into that position.  She was married to Carl Bernstein (of Woodward and Bernstein) and helped him do a draft of “All The Presidents Men.”  Their draft didn’t make the cut, but the powers that be took notice.  She learn to write screenplays, and write them well enough that she could leverage that into directing gigs that performed spectacularly- worldwide, not just here.

Nora, we will miss you.

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Cleopatra at California Science Center

25 Monday Jun 2012

Posted by Angie in stuff to see

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California Science Center, Cleopatra, Cleopatra VII, Egypt, Egyptian artifacts, Heracleion, Ptolemy

Two countries constantly in the the spotlight now are Greece and Egypt.  It’s fitting that Cleopatra decides to show up in LA now.

Cleopatra, I had forgotten so much about you.  When I think of you, Liz Taylor comes to mind instead.  I went to the new Cleopatra: The Exhibition (not the most earth-shattering title, I agree) at the California Science Center to get reacquainted.   Cleo was actually Cleopatra VII, descended from Ptolemy, Alexander the Great’s general, which makes her Greek, not ethnically Egyptian (Lots of Ptolemys and Cleopatras in that family tree!).  But she was the only one in her family to learn Egyptian so that made her very popular amongst the common folk.  She was a skilled politician but the might of the Roman army was too great even for her.  She was the last Pharaoh of Egypt.

Many of the artifacts were found submerged at what was Heracleion, the site of Cleopatra’s palace and temple.  It was destroyed by earthquakes then a tsunami.  Others were found along the eastern Nile delta.

Found at Heracleion.

Colossi, gigantic statues of kings and queens, stood guard at temple openings. Only priests and the Pharaoh were allowed in, but you were allowed to worship the colossi.

Some rings that would look at home at Barneys.

A gold coin.  I guess this is why people want to go back to the gold standard.  Gold lasts.

Absolutely amazed something this delicate could survive for thousands of years underwater! Alabaster. Translucent. Just amazing.

This looks like David Yurman, no?

Gorgeous bracelet and earrings. The bracelet is gold leaf and agate from 117-138 A.D., and the gold and pearl earrings are from 332 B.C. – 313 A.D.

This stunning gold and carnelian necklace is from 332 B.C. – 313 A.D.

Cleopatra saw herself as the earthly embodiment of the goddess Isis and Aphrodite. The knot on this toga is a detail associated with Aphrodite.

I thought jewelry designers/fans would get practical inspiration from this post.  But if you’re a history buff like moi, it’s just thrilling to see stuff like this in person.  This is the only west coast appearance of these artifacts, so check it out if you can.

http://www.californiasciencecenter.org/Exhibits/SpecialExhibits/Cleopatra/Cleopatra.php

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Colleen Atwood for HSN

22 Friday Jun 2012

Posted by Angie in Accessories, Women

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Charlize Theron, Colleen Atwood, Home Shopping Network, Snow White and the Huntsman

She’s done some of the most most memorable costumes in recent film history, “Edward Scissorhands,” “Alice in Wonderland,” and “Chicago,” to name a few on her storied resume.

http://www.latimes.com/entertainment/news/la-ca-snow-white-side-20120520,0,1149832.story

And now, with the raves she’s getting for “Snow White,” a collection with HSN.  The video at the top is a real treat for you film costume fans!

http://www.hsn.com/snow-white-and-the-h/atwood-by-colleen-atwood_c-fl_a-9233_xc.aspx?rid=2683

While clothes themselves are not my thing, it’s good to see that these designers can parlay their film work into design work for the masses.  Janie Bryant (Mad Men) and her collaboration with Banana Republic is another recent pairing.

I was expecting to see jewelry in the HSN collection, weren’t you?  The costumes were great, of course, but the medieval, sinister jewelry really stood out to me.  Maybe Colleen didn’t design it, or maybe HSN only wanted her to design clothes based on the movie.  Whatever the reason, opportunity lost, I think for HSN.  I sure it’ll inspire Chrome Hearts, Roxanne Assoulin, or Tom Binns.

Love the chains and the fingertip talon ring.

More fingertip talon rings.

Close-up on one of Ravenna’s costumes.  The snake metalwork is wicked.

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Western Costume

21 Thursday Jun 2012

Posted by Angie in stuff to do

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clothing reproduction, costume rental, shoe reproduction, Western Costume

Dude, where do I start?  It’s been around forever (100 years!), but for some reason it keeps popping up in the news.  It not only rents out tons of costumes for film, tv, commercials, etc. but it will also make you stuff from scratch!  I’m serious.  Bring in a picture and, zip! zip! they sew it up for you like those chubby mice in Cinderella.  But the mice ain’t cheap.  It’ll set you back about $400 for a woman’s dress, $800 for shoes (shoes!!!! a a pair of ruby slippers awaits), and about $1600 for a suit.  That’s just the labor, the materials and fabric you buy up front.

If you wish it, they will make it.

Designers, students, fashion fans, just go and drink it all in.  They also have a yearly spring cleaning sale to make room for new stock, and offer month long rentals for Halloween!

If you’re in LA, swing by and be inspired.

Photo gallery:

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-western-costume-20120615,0,1776503.photogallery

Video:

http://www.latimes.com/videogallery/70469768/Entertainment/A-hundred-years-of-Western-Costume

The story:

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-western-costume-20120617,0,2936549.story

Their site:

http://www.westerncostume.com/wp/home

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Everlane

20 Wednesday Jun 2012

Posted by Angie in stuff to do, Women

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Everlane, t-shirt

Is a $50 t-shirt worth $50?  Granted, it’s lighter, softer, maybe has a more flattering cut or neckline, but no.  It ain’t even close to being worth $50, even made here.  Everlane makes tees in super soft supima cotton, and because they have no brick & mortar stores, no sales people, there’s no overhead, and yes, they pass the savings onto you.

The only downside is that you can’t go try these puppies on, but hey, it’s a frickin’ t-shirt.  I’m sure it’ll fit fine.

Register and earn points towards a free tee.

http://www.everlane.com

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La Dolce Vita

12 Tuesday Jun 2012

Posted by Angie in 1960's

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Anita Ekberg, Federico Fellini, La Dolce Vita, Marcello Mastroianni

Finally… A movie.  Yes, I’ve been up to my popped collar in personal deadlines, house guests, colds, playdates and whatnot, for what seems like foreveh.  But Netflix waits for no man… They charge you regardless, homie.  So, I should at least get this dusty one back to them, it’s costing me!

Seven vignettes.  Not necessarily in chronological order.  Groundbreaking structure.  Films like this remind me that nothing is new anymore.  In fashion or in film.  That’s kinda depressing, isn’t it?  This film is 52 years old, and it’s more “modern” than anything being release this summer.  What can I say about “La Dolce Vita,” that hasn’t been said?  I can’t, so I’ll just show you the goodies.

Fellini’s masterpiece opens with a helicopter flying through the air carrying a statue of Jesus.  No subtle symbolism.  Religion in the modern age = celebrity worship.

Ah, the sweet life, indeed.

Love the retro bathing suits.

Marcello Mastroianni, as Marcello, a tabloid reporter checks out a bevy of beauties sunbathing on a rooftop.  He tries talking to them, but can’t hear what they’re saying.

As you well know, this is the film that gave us the term, paparazzi.  I love Anouk Amiee’s detached, sophisticated socialite, Maddelena.

Marcello meets American actress, Sylvia Rank, Anita Ekberg, and deems her to be everything.  She is lust, love, home, hearth, all rolled into one.  And coincidentally, she also possesses the most intimidating cleavage in all of cinema.

Va-va-bazooms!

You can see where those Marciano brothers get their ad inspiration.

I just like this shot.

Don’t you just love Marcello?  Can’t help but flirt a little with the stewardesses.  How cute are their uniforms?

Sultry.

Then sweet.

She climbs a church bell tower with the press laboring to keep up.  Her dress has Catholic undertones with the black long sleeves and high collar along with the white fabric positioned at the neck.

Even though she is an object of lust, Sylvia remains childlike and innocent.  She represents big, robust American optimism and domination of the post-war era.

The most memorable image from the film is Anita Ekberg in this black strapless gown.  If you didn’t see the film you’d think it was a straight column from the waist down, but it’s not.  It’s multi-layered and multicolored chiffon.

The setting, with the fire, grotto, costumed partygoers, all remind you of the pagan decadence of ancient Rome.

Even her dance partner’s facial hair makes him look like Pan, the Satyr.

Sylvia wanders off.  This dress flows beautifully.

And here it is.

The moment you all have been waiting for.

She beckons Marcello to join her.

Marcello and Anita in the Trevi fountain.  She is a goddess, like Aphrodite emerging from the sea, and he is a mere mortal.  The water stops flowing, like a spell that’s been broken.  She is not a goddess, merely an actress, and stuck in her own dysfunctional relationship.

Roman ruins. Decadence.  Modern life empty of meaning.  The next vignette, he meets up with his friend Steiner who represents cold intellectualism devoid of religious faith.  Fellini, raised Catholic, may have felt torn between being an intellectual, and being a devout believer in Christ and everlasting life.

The vignette with the Madonna sighting turns religion into a hoax morphing into a cash grab.  The truly devout end up looking like fools.

I just like all their glasses.

Marcello escapes his suffocating girlfriend, Emma, hiding out at a seaside town, trying to write his novel.  He meets Paola, a young waitress and is taken with her beauty and innocence.

This has nothing to do with fashion, but I love the how the window coverings let light pass through to form a pattern on the floors and walls. Great idea for a restaurant or a boutique.

The next vignette Marcello’s father visits him in Rome.  They are not close but Marcello wishes he knew his father better.  Family is disconnected from his life, and he despises his girlfriend.  He is truly alone.  His father tries to hook up with one of the dancers, but can’t, um, perform.  Marcello sends him home.  Is this his fate?  To be old and still chasing after showgirls.

Cabaret dancers in flapper gear.  Love the black and white dresses.

The next vignette Marcello tags along with Nico, playing herself, to a grand aristocrat’s estate outside of Rome.

OMG. I totally forgot Nico was in this!  How fab are these two together???  I always thought of “La Dolce Vita” as older than it actually is.  But this reminded me it’s right before Swinging London and Hippies in America.  Nico really pulls your focus ,and puts you exactly in that end-of-Don Draper era.

The party at an old Italian aristocratic family shows the old societal class structures crumbling like the ruins of the Roman Empire.

Incredibly wealthy and incredibly bored, nothing’s really changed.

They walk back to the castle after a night of casual sex and ghost-hunting.

The next vignette Marcello finds out Steiner shot and killed his children and then himself.  This seems to send him off the deep end.  If someone who Marcello revered, and looked up to, and seemingly possessed everything he himself wanted: a beautiful family, a loving wife, a beautiful house and children, intellectual respect, couldn’t find happiness in life, how could he?

The next vignette shows Marcello indulging in debauchery of rock star proportions.  He’s ready to sell his soul to the highest bidder.  He’s with a group of revelers to celebrate a middle-aged woman getting an annulment.  His pitiful desperation to keep the party going while everyone else knows it’s time to go, symbolizes his own refusal to grow up, stuck in eternal adolescence.

After the owner of the house kicks them out, the gang spots a beach in the distance. Something about this group of people in the forest seems almost magical.

It’s framed in such a lovely way, and tracks along…

… As they run to the beach.

We follow behind them, as if we’re part of the party.  You can see how these party people start morphing into his later films as exaggerations, caricatures, carnival-like folk.  What they call Felliniesque, in his later films.

They witness the fishermen pull up the carcass of a prehistoric sea creature. It’s eyes open like it’s seen eons come and go, underscoring how little time we humans have on this planet.

The last shots mirror the opening shots. Marcello talking to a girl in the distance, unable to hear her respond. This time it’s the angelic Paola, the waitress from the seaside cafe. Is it his innocence and youth he can’t connect with?  Or maybe he’s finally growing up, letting go of his youth.

If anything, this film is a study in contrasts.  Modern Rome vs. ancient Rome.  Powerful vs. weak.  Respected writer vs. reviled tabloid journalist.  Madonna vs. whore.  Decadence vs. innocence.  Clingy Emma (girlfriend) vs. Aloof Sylvia (dream girl).

It’s complex, glamorous (even if self-reflective), and intellectual.  Very rare to find that these days.

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FAVES, no particular order

Directed by James Ivory, Costume Design Jenny Beavan, 1985

Directed by Jack Clayton, Costume Design Theoni V. Aldredge, 1974

Directed by Sally Potter, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1992

Direct by Arthur Penn, Costume Design Theadora Van Runkle, 1967

Directed by Iain Softley, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1997

Directed by Wong Kar Wai, Costume Design William Chang, 2000

Directed by Paul Thomas Anderson, Costume Design Mark Bridges, 2007

Directed by Cary Joji Fukanaga, Costume Design Michael O'Connor 2011

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