Philip Lim Spring 2012

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Superfresh colors and lengths.  It’s Miami Vice meets Upper East side.

Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com

Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com

Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com

Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com

Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com

Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com

Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com

Makes me want to experiment with long vests and tanks.  Now I just need sunglasses and Phil Collins.

Pauline Kael – New Bio

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Brian Kellow’s new biography, “Pauline Kael, A Life in the Dark,” got me thinking about this preeminent American movie critic.  She’s like patient zero, the first to have the virus from which all subsequent infections can be traced.  Most film critics can be traced back to her.  Quentin Tarantino said that he didn’t go to film school, didn’t have to because he read all of Kael’s reviews.  Such was her enthusiasm, and descriptive power.  She was our jungle guide through the heady 60’s, 70’s, and early 80’s when art house and American studio films reached the nexus of critical and commercial success.  We loved her because she was a straight-shooter and spoke plainly but colorfully at the same time.  No big words, big ideas.  She broke it down for us, told us what was good, and more importantly, WHY.  In the end, she sorta became the snob her younger self might have roasted on a spit, but it doesn’t matter.  Her work speaks for itself.

After reading about her, read her reviews.  If anything, they’ll make you a better writer, and possibly a more enlightened movie goer.

Earlier reviews.

New anthology.

Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2012

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A true original.  Unapologetically avantgarde.  She cites Isabelle Eberhardt as her inspiration.  A Swiss writer who traveled through North Africa in the late 1800’s, who wore men’s clothes because they were more practical and comfortable.  I can’t help but think of the wild American west (same time period) viewed through the lens of a goth rocker/Belle Epoque ingenue.

Marcus Tondo/GoRunway.com

Marcus Tondo/GoRunway.com

Marcus Tondo/GoRunway.com

Marcus Tondo/GoRunway.com

Marcus Tondo/GoRunway.com

Marcus Tondo/GoRunway.com

I love the long, slouchy, silhouette.  She does use some white and off-white (it is spring after all), but she loves her some black.

Scarf it down

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Here’s a new way to work a scarf, YSL Spring 2012.

Marcus Tondo/GoRunway.com

New shape for a white dress shirt.  Romantic but yet professional.

Marcus Tondo/GoRunway.com

Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences

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This is a treasure trove of photos, books, scripts, graphic design, oral history, personal papers, and vintage movie magazines from their archives.  They also have free ongoing exhibits in the lobby.  Such a great resource that many designers in LA overlook.  Take advantage!

AMPAS website

AMPAS website

AMPAS website

http://www.oscars.org/library/collections/photos/index.html

RESEARCH!!!  It’s fun.  Bring a lunch, you might spend all day there.

I am Love, and in love with Tilda Swinton from Orlando

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She’s a tall Scottish lass that looks great in clothes.  Not to mention, an extremely intelligent and fierce actor.  She’s not a mainstream star here, but she is a fashion muse that we all watch.

“I am Love,” 2009, is a small film with a tragic end, but gives you an eyeful in every frame.  They had a very small budget but really stretched it because the interiors alone are jaw-dropping.  Antonella Cannarozzi, the costume designer, received her first Academy Award nomination for all her hard work. Coming from an indie film background, I’m awed by what she was able to do with so little.

Emma Recchi, Tilda Swinton, is the Russian wife of a wealthy, aristocratic Italian.  She falls madly in love with her son’s business partner, which leads to a series of tragic events.

I don’t know what’s more fabulous, that mink or Marisa Berenson.

Emma’s look is refined, upper-class, and oh so age appropriate. Don’t you love her sunglasses? Tilda Swinton.

Love the bright blue with that yellow bag. Tilda Swinton.

The simple cream sweater with orange skirt, the curved bun in her hair, and the tiles on the ground make this such a beautiful shot. Tilda Swinton.

Orange pants! She looks great, of course. Tilda Swinton.

This graphic draped dress is to die for. Tilda Swinton, Waris Ahluwalia, and Marisa Berenson.

Tilda Swinton.

At the end, she’s a mess. No makeup, she needs her housekeeper to get her dressed. A far cry from the beginning of the film. Tilda Swinton and Maria Paiato.

Article on Antonella Connarozzi:

http://fashionetc.com/fashion/influencers/807-antonella-cannarozzi-i-am-love-oscars-2011

http://www.iamlovemovie.com/

On to “Orlando”

I first noticed her in some Derek Jarman films, but she really popped in Sally Potter‘s “Orlando,” 1992.  This too, was a indie film who’s grand sets and costumes belies its tiny budget.  Costumes by Sandy Powell, with additional costumes by Dien Van Straalen.

Orlando is male at the beginning.

Charlotte’s fantastic high neck, sapphire colored, Russian fur coat with black frog closures. Charlotte Valandrey and Tilda Swinton.

Even the skates and tights inspire.

Notice the proportion of the bow and cuffs. Tilda Swinton.

The shirt adds to the look even with the coat worn over it. Tilda Swinton.

Full length shot of the coat from the side, check out the ginormous coat cuff. Tilda Swinton.

Love the ruffles down the front and the fullness of the waistcoat. Tilda Swinton.

Such a beautifully composed shot. This could be a painting by Jacques-Louis David. Tilda Swinton.

Rich middle eastern colors and textile patterns. Tilda Swinton.

Then turns female.

She finds it hard to maneuver around a room in women’s clothes, a metaphor of her life as a woman. Tilda Swinton.

Reduced to mere decoration. Tilda Swinton.

A stunning, stunning, stunning green tartan jacket and dress.

From the back. Tilda Swinton.

Look at all the different ruffle colors. If it were gradations of white or ivory it would make a unforgettable wedding gown. It looks a little Galliano 1994. Tilda Swinton and Billy Zane.

Near the end of the film, independent, a mother, and at peace with herself. An androgynous look encapsulates that journey. Tilda Swinton.

Both films are must-sees for fashionéastes.

Spring 2012 Valentino

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This circles back to my “A Room with a View” post.  I saw these as a modern interpretation of the prim and ladylike looks in that film, but with a young modern twist.

photo: Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com

photo: Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com

photo: Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com

photo: Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com

photo: Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com

photo: Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com

I love that the whole body, arms and legs are covered, but still breathtakingly sexy, and ever ladylike.  Not to mention the hair and makeup are simple, natural, romantic, gorgeous.  Those drop earrings are insane.  I’m losing my mind right now.

Eames and Tim Burton exhibits at LACMA

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California Design, 1930-1965: Living in a Modern Way.  I went on Saturday and it was soooo fantastic.  I was prepared to be wowed by the reassembled Eames living room (and I was, although photos make it look larger), but was surprised at how much was inspiring to me.  From the pottery, to the posters, to the textiles, to furniture,  even a car, I drank it all it.  All I had was my phone, forgive the graininess.

Rudlof Schindler house draft

Schindler draft

LACMA mini airstream trailer

Mini airstream. People now use them as guest houses or offices in lieu of building and add-on.

Sombrero textile Mexican folk dress

Fun sombrero textile, love the striped skirt.

Rudy Gernreich white bathing suit red dress

A racy Rudy Gernreich bathing suit.

Lady Levi's 1930's

Lady Levi’s from 1930’s.

American Airlines ad 1950's

Oh the 50’s, when the U.S. was confident and happy and fiscally secure.  Can’t you just feel the optimism?

1950's costume jewelry

Fantastic jewelry, don’t you love the display?  Keeps me from stealing it and gives it a space age-y vibe.

1950's costume jewelry necklace

Could’ve just walked off the Marni runway.

1950's costume jewelry brooch

These are so fun! Very Jetson-y.

1950's costume jewelry necklace abstract

Almost Miro-like.

1950's costume jewelry necklace words

Not exactly my taste, but it’s cool.

1950's costume jewelry cuff brooch

Such a cool chunky cuff and a modern, nature-inspired brooch.

1950's costume jewelry necklace minimal

I’m tempted to call it minimalist but it’s kinda not. Love it on bare skin.

1950's Avanti

An Avanti (a Studebaker).  May I get an electric one?  That would be the best of both worlds.

1950's Avanti rear

So cute.

1950's jazz LP covers

Do you feel your inner beatnik boppin’ around?

1950's jazz LP covers

Great on your walls at home.

1950's Adrian black dress

A dress by hollywood costume designer, Adrian. He also did “The Wizard of Oz” and “The Women.” Seriously, could’ve walked off the runway yesterday.

1950's couch coffee table lamp side table

Love the coffee table as planter, and glass with opaque combo.  The lamp is molded acrylic.  Fab.

1950's Alan Lustig textile

Textile by Alan Lustig. Could be great wallpaper or bedding design.

1950's Bernard Kester Textile

Textile by Bernard Kester. Would make a fab rug.

1950's Paul Laszlo textile

I love it as it, to hang on a wall. Textile by Paul Laszlo.

1950's Wonder Bread print

Just fun.  Wouldn’t the 3 stripes look great on a tee?  I bought the coffee mug version.

1950's outdoor furniture

Fab outdoor set.  Check out the gigantic wok-like bbq grill.  Awesome.

1950's abstract painting

This would make a great spring palette.  Muted pastels.

They let us take photos, except in the Eames living room, which is laudable I guess.  They didn’t in the Tim Burton exhibit next to it.  If you go on a weekend the parking might be a nightmare.  The LACMA lot was full, and no street parking.  I parked at Museum Square a block over on Curson/Wilshire, where SAG has their office, as a back up.  It was $17!!! for 2 1/2 hours.  Be forewarned.

The Tim Burton exhibit brought out all the goths in SoCal. Good!  They could use some sun.

Here’s the back of one goth/victorian mommy.

His drawings definitely have a life of their own, and I appreciate his unique aesthetic, but I didn’t connect with it on a personal level.  What really wowed me was the Colleen Atwood, full, S & M-y, Edward Scissorhands suit.  So many details, like little brass keys sticking out of keyholes, in Edward’s heels, you miss when watching it on screen.

Check it out if you can.

Elizabeth Taylor RIP

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If you’re in LA, you can view her memorabilia, which includes gorgeous one-of-a-kind gowns, and her eye-popping jewelry collection, at the Pacific Design Center through Oct. 16th.  Items will go on auction in New York in December.

http://www.latimes.com/entertainment/news/la-et-liz-auction-20111003,0,1683302.story

Elizabeth Taylor necklace earrings bracelet

Goddess.  She glows, even in black and white.

Krupp diamond

Wow!  It’s like an infinity mirror.  33 carat Krupp diamond.

Her couture gowns and jewelry were bought and paid for.  Not like today’s here-today-gone-tomorrow starlets.  SNAP!  She passed away on March 23, 2011, at 79, but her memory and image live on.

Elizabeth Taylor James Dean Giant

These are legends, not movie stars.  James Dean and Elizabeth Taylor on the set of “Giant,” directed by George Stevens in 1956.

Here are some of her most memorable looks.

“Cat on a Hot Tin Roof,” directed by Richard Brooks, 1958, explores the rocky marriage of Brick, Paul Newman, and Maggie, Elizabeth Taylor.

Elizabeth Taylor Paul Newman Cat on a Hot Tin Roof

With Paul Newman in this now famous slip.

Elizabeth Taylor Paul Newman Cat on a Hot Tin Roof

Was there ever a more gorgeous screen couple?

Elizabeth Taylor white dress Cat on a Hot Tin Roof

Not that she needs help with figure flattering cuts, but this silhouette is so stunning on her, emphasizing her natural and ample bosom and tiny waist.

“Suddenly, Last Summer,” the creepy, Southern Gothic-like mystery, has the wonderfully patrician Katherine Hepburn breathing life into Tennessee Williams’s words, flitting around like a ghost haunting her home and haunted by the death of her son, Sebastian.  Her sea turtle monologue rivals Natalie Woods’s, “I’m a good girl Mama!” monologue, from “Splendor in the Grass” for best crazy lady monologue.  Directed by Joseph L. Mankiewicz in 1959, Liz does a great crazy lady, too.

Elizabeth Taylor Suddenly Las Summer black dress

This could’ve been plucked from Victoria Beckham’s collection. Still very modern and flattering.

Elizabeth Taylor Suddenly Las Summer white swimsuit Montgomery Clift

This daring white, keyhole, one piece became an iconic swimsuit.

Elizabeth Taylor Suddenly Las Summer white swimsuit

Here it is in color. mptvimages.com

In “Butterfield 8,” she plays Gloria Wandrous, a sometimes actress/call girl trying to go legit, directed by Daniel Mann, 1960.  What’s striking about her performance is her vulnerability layered with world weariness and optimism.

Elizabeth Taylor Butterfield 8 slip

Another memorable slip. She was petite but perfectly proportioned.

Elizabeth Taylor Butterfield 8 black dress pearls

As Gloria she was the lust object looking for love, dignity, and respect in all the wrong places.

That’s just a taste. She has so many! RIP Elizabeth.

Les Journees Particulieres

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If you’re galavanting around Europe this fall, LVMH will open 25 of their ateliers in France, Italy, Spain and England to the public.  Yes, we peons will be allowed inside the workshops of Louis Vuitton, Hubert de Givenchy’s Paris mansion, and tons of others too fantastic to believe.  Pucci!, the Fendi palazzo!  My god.  Some are probably already sold out for their limited runs, but they’ll still be lots to see if you’re up for it. I, of course will be here, watching movies and driving my little guy to preschool.  Have fun!

les journees particulieres

Ahh, if only, one had the time, $$ and trustworthy babysitters.

http://www.lesjourneesparticulieres.fr/accueil.php