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The Fashionéaste

Category Archives: 1980’s

Never Let Me Go

09 Friday Aug 2013

Posted by Angie in 1970's, 1980's

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Andrew Garfield, Carey Mulligan, Hailsham, Kazuo Ishiguro, Keira Knightley, Mark Romanek, Never Let Me Go

Howdy folks! Did you guys read this book? I did. I like Kazuo Ishiguro’s spare, minimalist writing style. A friend sort of gave it away when she was trying to get me to read it. I was intrigued anyway and finished it quickly. It’s not fast-paced or very action-y, but it does make you think about what it is to be human. Is humanity humane when they conceive and raise these poor souls to only use them to serve their own selfish needs? Just because you are able to do something on a scientific level, should you? Where is the morality and ethics? It’s part mystery, part sci-fi, period piece with a little tragic love story thrown in.

Mark Romanek, 90’s video directing god, turns a vaguely sinister book, into a melancholic, melange of muted colors, and blurred ethical lines, “Never Let Me Go,” 2010. I know it’s a little dark and depressing for summer, but here goes.

In 1952 medical science can cure everything. People live past 100 on average. How is this possible? Donors. Donors are people bred and raise to, well, donate parts of their bodies to non-donors. When they run out of useful parts, they run out their clock. They “complete.” Carers are from the same stock of people donors are, but their job is to take care of the donors until it’s time for them to start donating their own parts.

The really cruel part is that the donors are well taken care of, have an almost normal childhood, raised in a prim English boarding school, minus a lot of love and attention. As they grow and mature, they are unaware of their true purpose in life.

Hailsham Never Let Me Go

Idyllic, serene, school. Quite the opposite of its purpose.

Hailsham girls Never Let Me Go

The school uniforms also underscore the sameness of purpose for these girls. They were all created to donate. I do love the layering, don’t you? Especially with the tie.

Ruth, Keira Knightley, Kathy, Carey Mulligan, and Tommy, Andrew Garfield, grow up in Hailsham, a boarding school of sorts, in the 1970’s. One day, their teacher Miss Lucy, tells them point blank that they were made to donate their vital organs, and when they cannot donate anymore they will be left to die. Miss Lucy is quickly fired, but the cat is out of the bag by then.

Never Let Me Go Lucy

Miss Lucy. She bridges the light of knowledge and the darkness of ignorance.

Charlotte Rampling Hailsham Never Let me Go

The women’s hair color, clothing color blend into the woodwork. They are part of the vast institution that controls these children’s lives.

The three of them leave Hailsham by 1985 and arrive at The Cottages, a rural way station on their way to their donating careers.

Never Let Me Go Carey Mulligan

Kathy leaves the protected shell of childhood behind.

Never Let Me Go

The Cottages are set in the countryside. Again a quiet, natural setting to contrast their scientifically manipulated existence.

Never Let Me Go Carey Mulligan

Color punctuates the muted tones for a change. They finally get to meet new people and explore their world on their own terms.

Never Let Me Go Kiera Knightley Carey Mulligan

Ruth and Kathy struggle to eek out new identities as adults. I love the random stained glass squares.

Never Let Me Go Kiera Knightley Carey Mulligan

Their cozy, nubby, woolen sweaters makes me feel they are still protected from their environment in The Cottages.

Never Let Me Go Carey Mulligan

The colors in this film are so beautiful. I do think it’s a great alternative palette to dark fall/winter colors. Rich neutrals mixed with pastels for a pop of color.

Never Let Me Go

Beautiful. Even the metals are as soft and delicate as this bird.

Never Let Me Go Carey Mulligan

Kathy leaves The Cottages, Ruth and Tommy, on her way to becoming a carer.

At The Cottages, Ruth, Tommy and Kathy heard a rumor that couples from Hailsham could get a deferral of their donations if they could prove they were in love. Since they were from Hailsham, but never heard of this before, they didn’t believe it. As time passed, Ruth finds the address of their former Head Mistress, Miss Emily, and gives it to Kathy and Tommy as a token of apology. Ruth always knew they were meant to be together, but she claimed Tommy first, fearing she’d die alone.

Never Let Me Go Kiera Knightley Carey Mulligan Andrew Garfield

They meet up one last time on a road trip. Again, their clothes match the colors of their natural environment. They belong here, they’re not subhuman.

Never Let Me Go boat

They spot a beached boat in the distance.

Never Let Me Go boat day

The boat is a metaphor for their existence.

Never Let Me Go boat night

They are trapped, marooned in this life. They have almost outlived their use, as the sunset implies.

Ruth, as she feared, dies alone after her third donation. Kathy and Tommy find Miss Emily, and with heartbreaking naivety, ask for a deferral. Tommy shows Miss Geraldine, another school Mistress, his drawings. At Hailsham, the children were always asked to contribute to The Gallery. It was always mysterious. What was it for? Tommy guessed that The Gallery must’ve been a way of showing what was in their souls. That the powers that be must look over the art to be convinced that the couple is in love and worthy of a deferral. Miss Emily calmly explains that getting a deferral was always just a rumor, never true. The Gallery was just to convince people that they were in fact, human enough to create art. They all will start donating until completion. No chance to be fully human.

Never Let Me Go Carey Mulligan Andrew Garfield

On the way home Tommy breaks down. It reminded me of Munch’s, The Scream, though with less horror and more despair. It’s dark. Tommy’s time is up.

Never Let Me Go Carey Mulligan

A short time after Tommy’s completion, Kathy gets notice that her donations will start in a month.

Did part of me want them to get some guns and shoot their way outta England? Take down The Man? Liberate all donors? Of course I did! But alas, it’s not that kind of movie.

In a way, it reminds me of “Blade Runner.” Being able to continue living were all that Roy and Rachel wanted. Ishiguro, in a such a simple manner, wrote about the bleakness of living a conscious life. We are born. We become adults and realize we will die someday. We don’t know when or how, but it’s inevitable. There is no way out of it. Try to do good, prove that your soul is so good it should live for an eternity to some mysterious authority? Um, nah. It doesn’t really matter does it? It doesn’t buy you more time. I’m getting depressed as I type this right now. Oy.

Live as fully as possible. Love as much as possible so when you do die, you know you loved and were loved. And that’s all that really matters.

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The Hunger

21 Wednesday Mar 2012

Posted by Angie in 1980's

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Bauhaus, Catherine Deneuve, David Bowie, Susan Sarandon, The Hunger, Tony Scott

I guess I’m on a Catherine Deneuve kick right now. I thought this might be good for anyone working on Fall.  80’s goth + sexy vampires.

The thing I love most about Deneuve is that she’s undeniably gorgeous, but she doesn’t use it to define her film career.  If she were in America she’d be the girlfriend in many macho action movies or romantic comedies, then hit her 30’s and never work again unless it was as someone’s mom.  But being in Europe, and being fearless in her work, she’s played many varied and complicated women.  In Tony Scott’s, “The Hunger” she’s in her 40’s and playing a bisexual vampire!

You gotta love Bauhaus performing "Bela Lugosi's Dead" in the opening. The cage visual is repeated with the caged primates Sarah studies.

Miriam and John on the hunt.

A touch of the 40's through an 80's filter.

Leather jacket and mesh gloves. Love it! A very young Ann Magnuson.

Love her veil. Her wardrobe speaks to the fact that Miriam doesn't age. She just might be wearing something she wore in the 40's.

Another nice veil. It's also a subtle reminder that she is a vampire and must cover herself in the daylight.

A beautiful gown. Love the contrast lining.

Miram, Catherine, and John, David Bowie, are husband and wife and have been since 18th century France where they met.  Miriam is a never-aging Egyptian Vampire.  Her and John live in Manhattan and teach classical music.  John was promised everlasting life when Miriam chose him to be with her.  That did not mean everlasting youth, and John begins to age rapidly.  He seeks the help of Sarah Roberts, Susan Sarandon, a doctor who specializes on aging disorders, who thinks he’s a weirdo and blows him off.  When she sees him hours later and he’s aged decades she’s intrigued enough to look for him after he storms off.

A roller skater and a boom box. Ah, the 80's!

She goes to his house only to find Miriam.  Unknown to her, John has been placed in a coffin, still alive, only to be trapped in his decrepit body for eternity.

Simple but amped up with the shoulder pads.

Miriam and Sarah...

...End up hooking up.

After Miriam exchanges blood with Sarah, Sarah becomes a sweaty, twitchy, “junkie” badly in need of a fix.

Sarah returns after being turned into a vampire, angry. More 40's suits for Miriam. I love that they did her hair from that era too. It avoids the sad 80's hair that Sarandon has.

Miriam, outside moments later, with another veil.

Miriam about to give Sarah her first feed.

Deneuve's face. Her porcelain skin and red lips are such a great match for 80's glam.

Billowing curtains and white doves. Two things Tony Scott loves putting in his films. Why? Who knows?

The movie was release in 1983, just as AIDS was becoming an epidemic, a killer of gay men, intravenous drug users, and blood transfusion recipients.  Sex and blood are potent symbols of how dangerous sex became in the early 80’s.  Miriam is the aggressor, and she is the one to “enter” her prey, “infecting them” by biting them, penetrating their skin.  After feeding off their blood, they die.

In the end, Miriam meets a cruel fate.  Her undead lovers drive her to her death.  A metaphor of sorts of the Reagan era’s attitude on AIDS.  “These people” somehow deserved their pitiful fate because of the irresponsible and “immoral” actions.

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I am Love, and in love with Tilda Swinton from Orlando

19 Wednesday Oct 2011

Posted by Angie in 1600's, 1700's, 1800's, 1980's, Women

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Dien Van Straalen, I am Love, Orlando movie, Sally Potter, Sandy Powell, Tilda Swinton

She’s a tall Scottish lass that looks great in clothes.  Not to mention, an extremely intelligent and fierce actor.  She’s not a mainstream star here, but she is a fashion muse that we all watch.

“I am Love,” 2009, is a small film with a tragic end, but gives you an eyeful in every frame.  They had a very small budget but really stretched it because the interiors alone are jaw-dropping.  Antonella Cannarozzi, the costume designer, received her first Academy Award nomination for all her hard work. Coming from an indie film background, I’m awed by what she was able to do with so little.

Emma Recchi, Tilda Swinton, is the Russian wife of a wealthy, aristocratic Italian.  She falls madly in love with her son’s business partner, which leads to a series of tragic events.

I don’t know what’s more fabulous, that mink or Marisa Berenson.

Emma’s look is refined, upper-class, and oh so age appropriate. Don’t you love her sunglasses? Tilda Swinton.

Love the bright blue with that yellow bag. Tilda Swinton.

The simple cream sweater with orange skirt, the curved bun in her hair, and the tiles on the ground make this such a beautiful shot. Tilda Swinton.

Orange pants! She looks great, of course. Tilda Swinton.

This graphic draped dress is to die for. Tilda Swinton, Waris Ahluwalia, and Marisa Berenson.

Tilda Swinton.

At the end, she’s a mess. No makeup, she needs her housekeeper to get her dressed. A far cry from the beginning of the film. Tilda Swinton and Maria Paiato.

Article on Antonella Connarozzi:

http://fashionetc.com/fashion/influencers/807-antonella-cannarozzi-i-am-love-oscars-2011

http://www.iamlovemovie.com/

On to “Orlando”

I first noticed her in some Derek Jarman films, but she really popped in Sally Potter‘s “Orlando,” 1992.  This too, was a indie film who’s grand sets and costumes belies its tiny budget.  Costumes by Sandy Powell, with additional costumes by Dien Van Straalen.

Orlando is male at the beginning.

Charlotte’s fantastic high neck, sapphire colored, Russian fur coat with black frog closures. Charlotte Valandrey and Tilda Swinton.

Even the skates and tights inspire.

Notice the proportion of the bow and cuffs. Tilda Swinton.

The shirt adds to the look even with the coat worn over it. Tilda Swinton.

Full length shot of the coat from the side, check out the ginormous coat cuff. Tilda Swinton.

Love the ruffles down the front and the fullness of the waistcoat. Tilda Swinton.

Such a beautifully composed shot. This could be a painting by Jacques-Louis David. Tilda Swinton.

Rich middle eastern colors and textile patterns. Tilda Swinton.

Then turns female.

She finds it hard to maneuver around a room in women’s clothes, a metaphor of her life as a woman. Tilda Swinton.

Reduced to mere decoration. Tilda Swinton.

A stunning, stunning, stunning green tartan jacket and dress.

From the back. Tilda Swinton.

Look at all the different ruffle colors. If it were gradations of white or ivory it would make a unforgettable wedding gown. It looks a little Galliano 1994. Tilda Swinton and Billy Zane.

Near the end of the film, independent, a mother, and at peace with herself. An androgynous look encapsulates that journey. Tilda Swinton.

Both films are must-sees for fashionéastes.

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FAVES, no particular order

Directed by James Ivory, Costume Design Jenny Beavan, 1985

Directed by Jack Clayton, Costume Design Theoni V. Aldredge, 1974

Directed by Sally Potter, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1992

Direct by Arthur Penn, Costume Design Theadora Van Runkle, 1967

Directed by Iain Softley, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1997

Directed by Wong Kar Wai, Costume Design William Chang, 2000

Directed by Paul Thomas Anderson, Costume Design Mark Bridges, 2007

Directed by Cary Joji Fukanaga, Costume Design Michael O'Connor 2011

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