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~ For lovers of fashion in film

The Fashionéaste

Monthly Archives: February 2012

Boutonnieres

09 Thursday Feb 2012

Posted by Angie in Accessories, Men

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boutonnieres, buttonhole pins, lapel pins

Or lapel pin, or buttonhole pin, anyway you say it, a great accessory opportunity for both men and women.

Clark Gable was a fan.

Carmelo Anthony at the Versace show last year.

http://www.latimesmagazine.com/2012/02/image-xy-factor-buttonholes-in-bloom.html

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Black Swan

07 Tuesday Feb 2012

Posted by Angie in Contemporary/Present Day, Women

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Amy Westcott, Black Swan, Darren Aronofsky, Rodarte

First let me say… Was the Superbowl great or what?  I’m just glad it wasn’t a blowout.  Last week, I heard the sports books in Vegas had the Patriots by 3, but that lots of Giants fans placed future bets at 3 1/2 Giants, and if the Giants won by that, Vegas would be in deep sh*t.  So of course, I took that 3 1/2 Giants bet against the husband, and got to gloat and do a little dance when Brady’s Hail Mary was denied.  He was asleep during their last match up, woke up right after Tyree made that historic and unbelievable catch.  Probably because I was yelling at the TV.  I was pulling for the Giants then, too.  But man, a sniper like shot from Manning between two defenders to Manningham, who kept his feet in and held onto the rock, all in a millisecond.  Aaaah… That’s the stuff…

But enough about football, let’s talk tutus!

There was some back-and-forth between the Costume Designer Amy Westcott and the Rodarte girls, Kate and Laura Mulleavy.  Westcott was put-off by the Mulleavys complaining that they were not eligible for nomination, even though they only designed seven ballet tutus for the film, Westcott the rest of the costumes.  Neither received an Academy Award nomination for their work but the Mulleavys parlayed their experience in “Black Swan” into upcoming projects such as costume design for LA Opera’s Don Giovanni.

I just watched it, and I must say, watching something outside of the award season hype is very sobering.  Or maybe the experience of watching it on my computer and not in a darkened theater made it less award-worthy?  In any case, what was the big deal about this film?  The racy girl-on-girl scene?  Really?  In this day and age porn is ubiquitous.  So what?  The fact that it’s two famous chicks getting it on?  Again, in sex tape land, who cares?

I’m not saying it’s bad.  It’s a psychological drama, not some kinky horror film that it was hyped to be.  I thought it was OK.  The black swan/white swan is your classic duality in nature.  We all have darkness and light.  The ballet world is catty and competitive.  What industry is not?  Is she losing her mind?  Maybe.  So again, I thought it was OK, well made for sure, but not really fresh.

But Westcott’s costumes are a study in elegant casual dressing. Lots of featherweight knits, layered over bodysuits and leggings.

Featherweight shrug. I want it!

I love the back.

The soft pastels really add to the look.

Beautiful evening gown.

The back.

This featherweight turtleneck is great. You can wear a colorful cami under it to spice it up.

There are lots of tracking shots behind her. I like how this is framed. She's always in light or white colors. The others in black or dark.

Great layering.

I like this look because it's both delicate and athletic. And that's what dancers are, essentially.

Another great shrug and bodysuit combo. Look at that great yarn detail on the bust, and the rope-like effect of the yarn on the straps and edge trim. This looks like it's from a Rodarte collection. But who knows?

The back. Love it!

A Rodarte bodice and tutu for the white swan. 13 layers of tulle jutting straight out. All hand sewn.

A Rodarte tutu for the black swan.

A better view.

Very gothic.

The makeup on her hands is a small but strong detail.

Nina finally letting go and becoming the black swan. I love the black dripping down her tights.

Her full transformation.

Better shot of the white swan bodice. Can I say it's really not fair that Natalie looks better with no makeup on?

Lots of textures.

Given all the press for the tutus, Aronofsky shot a lot of close-ups of Natalie. You barely get a full view of the tutus.

Nina finishes the performance of her life.

You know a film has influenced you when you want to go out and buy the look.  I will be on the hunt for featherweight shrugs.  I don’t care that this is from last year.  It looks comfy and feminine.

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There Will Be Blood

04 Saturday Feb 2012

Posted by Angie in 1900's, 1910's, Men

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Daniel Day Lewis, Mark Bridges, Paul Thomas Anderson, There Will Be Blood

… And great pants! Or should I say trousers? And shirts, and layering for men.

Daniel Day-Lewis plays a poor gold prospector turned rich oil speculator in Paul Thomas Anderson, 2007, film. Watching it again, I really hate that he doesn’t do more films. He really deserved the Oscar for that performance.

All the pants are high-waisted. The cinch belt in the back, and loose leg.

Love the dusty, faded color palette.

The only time Daniel is not ruthless is when he's with his adopted son, H.W. He says he only took care of him because he needed a sweet face to buy land, but this shows that the baby had him at hello. This connection is his salvation of sorts. His only outlet for tenderness and love.

They are an adorable pair, aren't they? The pocket watch chain is a key accessory. And I never thought about pens as an accessory, but antique pens in you pocket look rather nice.

Stripes and vests.

Vintage hunting gear always looks fashionable.

Jodhpurs? Look great on him. But then again, being long and lean, anything would.

I love the braces (suspenders that button, not clip) belt detail.

Layered neutrals.

More braces. Oh, how I wish I bought these Ralph Lauren ones I saw a few years ago. I balked at the $120 price, but now, regretting not buying. Moral of the story: if you find something unique that fills a wardrobe void, buy it.

Paul Dano's simple preacher look.

Love the gold tie.

I just like this shot. The colors, the workwear clothes.

I love his shirt, but can't help thinking, did they have double needle machines during this time? It's all over his shirt. I'll let it go.

I LOVE this shot. Paul Dano looks like he's in a Magritte painting. I'm sure P.T. Anderson was trying to convince himself that it would be OK if Dano wore a bowler hat. But, no, a rural preacher would not. Speaking of surreal, it must've been for the Sunday family. There's oil all around them but they can't make any money off it.

I love that Daniel is kicking Eli's ass and all I can focus on are Daniels boots and pants.

They're fantastic!

Such dark denim and such a pin thin wide stripe.

I love his small collar. Signals his smallness, his insignificance.

The echoes back to the baby image. H.W. is trying to connect with him, but it doesn't work this time.

Here the pocket watch chain is straight across. Gives you some variety on how to wear it.

Anderson tracks groups of men walking hurriedly from behind.

As if we're one of them, the masses that are about to develop California.

Family = blood. Blood = conflict. There will be conflict within our families. How we handle it is what defines us. Daniel says he’s always wanted a family, even when he was a young boy. But look how he treated his adopted son. H.W. lost his hearing, but it’s Daniel who is deaf. He doesn’t listen to anyone but himself. He never married. He only worked and when he started making significant money, that was the relationship that ruled the rest of his life. In the end he’s left with nothing but money.

Such a great film very loosely based on the first part Upton Sinclair novel, Oil! I can’t believe he got it made. Mark Bridges did a tremendous job. He’s nominated this year for “The Artist.”

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Stylists: New Fashion Visionaries

03 Friday Feb 2012

Posted by Angie in Books

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Katie Baron, Stylists, Stylists: New Fashion Visionaries

Love them or hate them, they’re not going away, in fact they’re multiplying.  I’m not talking about celebrity red carpet dressers, I’m talking about the talent behind today’s most influential magazines, and runway shows.  A collection isn’t ready to be shown until the stylist and designer have ordered and assembled all the looks that will walk.

Stylists: New Fashion Visionaries, by Katie Baron.

Marie-Amelié Sauvé, stylist to the house of Balenciaga. Quiet but forcing boundaries ever forward.

I do admire them.  Can you imagine having to do something new and exciting all the time, or risk looking stale?  It must be nerve-racking, but fun and challenging when you’ve got the gift.

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Bespoke Mens Shirts in LA and beyond

01 Wednesday Feb 2012

Posted by Angie in stuff to do

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Bespoke, Made to measure

Ah, if only women would realize how nice a custom shirt is, we’d have a lot more options.  Maybe these tailors would take on doing one?  Doesn’t hurt to ask.  But do understand, their training and experience is in fitting men.  Mens measurements, and how they fit and how the fabric hangs is different.  Men don’t have boobs.

Bespoke/Custom: The pattern is made from your body measurements.  It is unique to you and you alone.

Made-to-Measure: They start with a ready made pattern (a block), then adjust the pattern specific to your measurements.

Of course bespoke will fit you like a glove, but the made-to-measure is a bit cheaper.  Both those options let you choose the fabric/pattern, buttons, shape of pockets, shape of cuffs and any other detail you want to add.  For the cheapest option, you can always buy a nice shirt from a department store or shop that does alterations and get it tailored to your needs.

Where to buy in the LA area.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-shirt-side-20120129,0,7395227.story

A companion story on the rise of made-to-measure clothing.

http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-custom-shirts-20120129,0,1643119.story?track=rss

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FAVES, no particular order

Directed by James Ivory, Costume Design Jenny Beavan, 1985

Directed by Jack Clayton, Costume Design Theoni V. Aldredge, 1974

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Direct by Arthur Penn, Costume Design Theadora Van Runkle, 1967

Directed by Iain Softley, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1997

Directed by Wong Kar Wai, Costume Design William Chang, 2000

Directed by Paul Thomas Anderson, Costume Design Mark Bridges, 2007

Directed by Cary Joji Fukanaga, Costume Design Michael O'Connor 2011

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