Tomboy Style: Beyond the Boundaries of Fashion

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Lizzie Garret Mettler, a freelance writer who’s written for the LA Times, Bon Appetit, and the Huffington Post, took her tomboy blog and turned it into a book.  It chronicles the past 80 years and how women have taken masculine aspects and made them fit their look and lifestyle.

Being a tomboy myself, I can’t wait to get it.

I put her blog on my blogroll.  Check it out.

Birdsong

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Aaaaah.  Tragic love stories.  Why do we love them so???  “Birdsong,” based on Sebastian Faulks’ novel of two star-crossed lovers during WWI.  He is English, Stephen Wraysford, Eddie Redmayne, and she is French, Isabelle Azaire, Clémence Poésy.  He is young and naive, she is young, but married.  It aired on PBS in America, in two parts.  If you missed it, you can catch it online at pbs.org.

Such a feminine jacket, the lapel, and fitted waist.

Love the lace.

Such a beautiful shot. You can tell by the framing, they will embark on something secretive.

Isabelle going to feed the workers. Her red sash hints at her passionate streak.

It's like a painting.

This one as well. Could be an impressionist's work.

Isabelle and Stephen's first touch.

Isabelle has the most gorgeous hairstyles. Bravo to hair and makeup. Nothing looks overwrought, just effortless softness.

I love the tiny braid! Makes it very modern, in a way.

Another painterly shot.

And another. Isabelle leads Stephen to her room, red skirt, passion to follow.

Isabelle doesn't tread lightly into this affair. This is intentional. Another great hair shot.

The interiors of the Azaire manse are elegant and impeccable.

Beautifully shot by Julian Court, and directed by Phillip Martin.  It reminds me of “The English Patient.”  An illicit affair, with a tragic end.  We watch the lovers consumed by their passions, and shed tears at their tragic end.  Eddie Redmayne is especially good in this.  His Stephen goes from lovestruck to shellshocked and everything in between.

Kaleidoscope App

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Remember when there was a gap between when something was happening (and it was cool) to it getting adopted by the mall masses (and it was def waaay over).  With the internet and street style blogs that gap got wafer thin, and now it’s gone.  Thanks to stuff like the new Kaleidoscope App.

Tech start up Inporia teamed up with Details magazine to construct an turnkey lookbook.  They scope out the most covetable looks, send the pix to their team of elves which dissect each component and link it to a site (to one of their retail partners, coinkidink?, I think not) so you can buy something similar if not exactly the same,

http://www.details.com/style-advice/perfect-wardrobe/201204/details-kaleidoscope-coachella-shop-menswear

http://kalei.do/

If trends get adopted and dropped with such lightning speed, is it really a trend?  It reminds me of a Vanity Fair article I read recently that said there was nothing new anymore fashion-wise.  Everything has been done, and we continue to just recycle decades.  I’ve felt that way for a while.  I think what evolves now is the styling, how you wear it.  Maybe this is the start.  Maybe this is the end of trends.

Letterboxd

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You are a quiet bunch.  Loyal readers, but quiet.  I’ve only had a few comments on this here blog.  If you ever have a hankering to discuss films with your homies (and not just listen to me twatting on) check out Letterboxd.com.  It’s a new site devoted to discussing films, new, old, in production, in development, etc.

As if we need one more thing to do... Hell, I did it anyway.

You can keep an online diary, rate films, review films, save films to watch later, you can follow each other (that just sounds funny), import your viewing history from Netflix, and launch streaming videos.  Whew.

Ute Lemper

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Maybe because I’m still thinking about Charlotte Rampling singing Marlene Dietrich songs…

Ute Lemper.  Is she so fantastic, or what?  So striking, so fierce, so German.

Do you think Marlene would approve?  She’d probably be a wee bit jealous.

Noir City Hollywood: 14th Annual Film Festival of Film Noir

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Starts Friday at the Egyptian Theatre in Hollywood, presented by the American Cinematheque.  The opening night film is the 1949 version of “The Great Gatsby.”  Yes, it’s usually not considered a noir film, but it’s adultery, murder, gangsters are all noir usual suspects, so I guess it does qualify as noir.

This version stars Alan Ladd as Jay Gatsby, the bootlegger turned new money hero to old money Daisy Buchanan.  It goes till May 6 and features some pre-code films.

http://www.americancinemathequecalendar.com/content/noir-city-hollywood-14th-annual-festival-of-film-noir

Film Noir is great inspiration material for anyone working on Fall.

The Night Porter

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With the runaway success, and unstoppable buzz of 50 Shades of Grey, I rented “The Night Porter” to revisit another sadomasochistic romance. Liliani Cavani’s 1974 film is very controversial, even today.

It’s set in 1957 Vienna where Max, a hotel night porter, and Lucia, a conductor’s wife, inadvertently meet again for the first time since WWII. Back then he was an SS officer and she was a teenager. He plucked her out of a crowd of prisoners and began to torture/rape her. She developed feelings for him, maybe what you’d classify as Stockholm Syndrome, and didn’t hesitate to resume their sadomasochistic relationship.

Lucia stumbles across Max.

Max works at night. He says he feels his shame in the light. Lucia means light. She’s the only thing that brings him joy. Their fortunes have reversed after the war. Max, Dirk Bogarde, was a SS officer, now a lowly hotel clerk, in the middle of his war crimes trial. He has already killed one witness who could’ve testified against him. Lucia, Charlotte Rampling, is now a posh conductor’s wife. She is the only other witness to his crimes. He could easily kill her, but his feelings get the better of him.

Lucia, in a child-like dress chosen for her by Max, in a flashback during her time in the concentration camp.

She is now married to a orchestra conductor. Beautiful, fitted camel hair coat, upturned collar, pearls, very befitting her new station in life.

At one point Max chains Lucia in his room so his peers (other former SS officers) can’t take her away when he’s at work. One of them, Hans, confronts Lucia and tells her that she should cooperate with them so they can help Max. She doesn’t trust him and says she’s chained because Max doesn’t want them to take her. He laughs and says that a chain wouldn’t stop them if they wanted to. This is true. The real chain keeping them together is their shared sickness, and longing for the past.

In this infamous flashback scene, Lucia serenades the officers with Marlene Dietrich's "Wenn Ich Mir Was Wünschen Dürfte." The hat, gloves, mens pants and suspenders worn with Rampling overt sexuality and confidence continue to inspire designers.

The masked "ball" mirrors their present situation where these officers are now trying to hide from their past, and pass themselves off as respectable gentlemen.

Max presents Lucia with the head of another prisoner who was bullying her. She merely asked Max to have the man transferred, but Max, having a flair for the dramatic (and violent) immediately thought of Salome and thought this would be an appropriate token of his affection for her. Thus continuing her trauma and guilt cycle.

Max and Lucia’s relationship puts his peers in danger. They just want to put the past behind them and live quiet respectable lives. Lucia knows them all from the camps and could testify against all of them, destroying everything they so carefully cobbled together. Max and Lucia want to stay together, living in the past, but the present day world will not allow it. Time marches on in the present, you cannot live in the past.

Klaus, the monocled one, is the ringleader in this motley crew, and his clothes vaguely imply his SS past. Black leather trench, said monocle, and hat.

Lucia was the submissive one before, but now she seems to be in charge. She's the one that initiated their affair. She has the power. She could easily go to the police and turn Max in, but she doesn't. That's shown here by Max kneeling behind her in a submissive pose, she's holding a pipe, something very phallic.

Max and Lucia say they want others to leave them alone so they can live in peace. Modern Germans are constantly reminded of their fascist past in pop culture and in politics. They are only too aware of doing anything that can be remotely viewed as being xenophobic or anti-Semitic. They will never be rid of, of “left alone” in this regard. Jews, in Israel and the world over use the horrors of WWII, and a history of persecution to inform their politics. Endless films, television shows depict their victimization and atrocities suffered at the hands of the Nazis. One of their slogans is “Never Forget.” Therefore they will be linked forever in the world’s consciousness.

After starving for days in his apartment, Max realizes he will never escape his peers. He dresses Lucia up in the same child-like dress from the beginning. Lucia doesn't say a word and follows along, knowing what will come. The bridge is their last walk on earth. In the pale morning light, they pass from the land of the living to the dead. Bert, his friend, has followed them and shoots them down.

Charlotte Rampling is her usual feline self, aloof with an undercurrent of carnal electricity. Dirk Bogarde… What can I say? If Peter O’Toole and Peter Lorre had a child it would be Dirk. Smug, English, with a thinly veiled, vile personality underneath. I love it. He’s an acquired taste.

Many critics at the time, were disgusted and appalled by Cavani’s use of concentration camp prisoners as a backdrop for titillation. Some who actually liked the film, thought the it was an essay on post-war European relations. Me? It definitely has problems. It’s not exactly rooted in reality, and Lucia’s character isn’t really fleshed out (no pun intended). I think it represents the inextricable relationship between Jews, Germany, and its shameful Nazi past. Framing it as a sadomasochistic relationship is interesting, albeit shocking and appalling.

Bonjour Tristesse at TCM Film Fest

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Traffic was hell but worth it.

What a treat.  I got to see a digitally restored print of Otto Preminger’s “Bonjour Tristesse,” today at the TCM Film Fest.  Jean Seberg was too gorgeous.  The south of France was entrancing, and I even got a surprise when I saw that Saul Bass did the opening title sequence.

Here’s a blog with all the titles: http://annyas.com/screenshots/updates/saul-bass-title-sequence-bonjour-tristesse-1958/

That color is so beautiful on her. Photo: Bob Willoughby, mptv.com.

Great sweater! I love a racing stripe. Photo: Bob Willoughby, mptv.com.

Photo: Bob Willoughby, mptv.com.

Barbara Tfank spoke before the film about how costumes serve the character.  She is a designer who has dressed everyone from Uma Thurman (she designed that pale lavender Prada Academy Awards gown that ushered in the modern, designer + red carpet era, before that it was Vegas meets prom on the red carpet) to Adele and Michele Obama.  She is a former costume designer herself and knows of what she speaks.  A true fashioneaste.

I got a standby ticket and was waaaaaay back.

She said that Givenchy was actually the costume designer for the film.  Seberg never looked so breathtakingly modern, fresh and beautiful.  And this was 1958!  Hopefully Netfilx gets it on DVD,  (don’t you think they should have these kinds of things???) so I can show you all the covetable stuff, like the great swimsuits Seberg gallops around in.

It ends tomorrow folks.

Herb Ritts: LA style

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Showing now at the J. Paul Getty Museum. Edited down to 87 images, many never before seen, from over 1,200, they capture the unique, glamour that Ritts made famous. Beautiful faces, bodies, enjoying their moment in our California sun.

He pretty much discovered Richard Gere. And launched careers for Antonio Sabado Jr., and Djmon Honsu in Janet Jackson’s video.

1977?

Being a child of the 80’s and a swinging 20 something in the 90’s, his images are like a time capsule to the fashion zeitgeist of that period. Janet Jackson’s “Love Will Never Do Without You,” video with her looking fit and fab, enveloped in the arms of heavenly Antonio Sabado Jr. and his million dollar smile, was like crack to us. We wanted to see it again and again. He told her he wanted an updo, black bustier top and ripped jeans. That pretty much says 90’s.

Sorry it's so blown up. The best I could find.

Same with Chris Isaak’s “Wicked Game” with him on a beach with Helena Christensen in all her exotic glory.

Sadly, Herb Ritts died in 2002, from complication of the AIDS virus. If he were alive today, there is no doubt in my mind he would’ve started making movies. A true fashioneaste.

The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo

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David Fincher, a master of graphic style in filmmaking, taking on Stieg Larsson’s Lisbeth Salander seemed like a match made in Hollywood heaven.  But I have to be honest, I was a little let down.  Maybe “The Social Network” set the bar too high.  That rowing race scene with the Winklevoss twins getting beaten to the thunderous Germanic techno classical score was genius.  No dialogue needed, the action spoke volumes of the characters and what they were fated to experience.

His credits are always great, but this sequence was pretty phenomenal. It had all the themes, violence against women and children, the dead coming back to avenge their killer, infectious technology, all of it presented in the credits.

Whatever problems I have with the story, Fincher always gives us something pretty or at least interesting, to look at.  Lisbeth’s look is one part don’t f**k with me masculine toughness, and one part alien beauty.

Her appearance serves as a protective shell, like a porcupine, she doesn't want you to get too close.

The shirt says it all.

Fincher enlisted fashion runway heavyweights, Pat McGrath for makeup and Danilo for hair to transform Rooney Mara into Lisbeth. Not sure if Lisbeth would really take the time to bleach her eyebrows, but hey, that's just me. It works. It's memorable for sure.

Suited up in her armor. Almost insect-like, Lisbeth is a "bug" intent to take down anyone who wrongs her or Blomkvist.

In the end you see her almost fragile.

There was a lot written about Trish Summerville’s Lisbeth look, H&M even collaborated with her on a capsule collection.  She won an award for Excellence in Contemporary Film from the Costume Designers Guild.

Photo: H & M.

It’s fine.  I know the the story is set in early 2000’s, so maybe that’s why it looks a little dated to me.  But I think Daniel Craig’s rumpled professor look, kinda stole the show.  Or maybe it’s just him.  He’s hella sexy, no?

Shawl collar sweater over layered shirts.

A super fuzzy grey sweater over more layered shirts.

Even a black sweater over his red flannel pajamas looks nice.

So casual, so cool. His glasses just so.

More tonal layering.

Jacket with vest and dark jeans.

Smaller shawl collar sweater.

Layered neutrals. Again, the glasses, worn askew. Does this mean Blomkvist looks at the world differently? Sees things others don't?

More tonal layering, this time two woven shirts on top of each other.

Fincher did a great job, but the adaptation was lacking something…  And I must say, I cringed at the after-rape shower scene.  Did not think Fincher would do something so clichéd.  You would think he would’ve rolled his eyes after he read that.

It didn’t occur to me when I read the book, but when I saw this sequence, it clicked.

Lisbeth is pursuing Martin after she discovers he is one of the killers. It's as if she's on horseback, riding through the woods, chasing the beast. It's a Nordic fairytale. A Grimm one. It's violent, bloody, with damsels in distress, and the righteous winning in the end.

Lisbeth is the hero, using her magic (computer skills, photographic memory) and wits to kill the beast literally or figuratively (Martin, Advokat Bjurman). Painting by John Bauer.

In keeping with the fairy tale theme, maybe that’s why they changed Harriet’s situation.  Harriet escaping the trolls/ogres (her father and brother) was an act of “magic.”  Out in the world she transformed into another person to survive, and she returns home victorious in a sense, having survived her horrific childhood.

It’s not a rave review but there are still plenty of reasons to see it.  Rooney Mara was excellent.  I’m still looking forward to seeing “Girl Who Played with Fire” and the development of her character.