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The Fashionéaste

~ For lovers of fashion in film

The Fashionéaste

Monthly Archives: November 2011

Bonnie and Clyde

10 Thursday Nov 2011

Posted by Angie in 1930's, R.I.P., Women

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Arthur Penn, Bonnie & Clyde, Faye Dunaway, Theadora Van Runkle

Theadora Van Runkle, passed away on Friday November 4th.  She worked on many memorable films like “Bullitt,” and “Godfather II,” but is widely remembered for her work on “Bonnie and Clyde.”

This film is a constant source of inspiration for designers.  Directed by Arthur Penn in 1967, it tells the tale of Bonnie Parker and Clyde Barrow‘s crime spree in the early 30’s.  America was deep in the Great Depression and pissed off at bankers.  Hmmm… Sounds familiar.

Theadora Van Runkle‘s costume design for star Faye Dunaway is timeless, and casually elegant.  It can be adapted for both spring and fall collections, just change the weight of the knits and wovens.

Theadora's costumes give Bonnie a softness and sophistication in contrast to her "hillbilly" confidants, and symbolizes her yearning for more than her current existence provides.

Theadora's use of berets actually come from Bonnie Parker, but she styles them a little differently and that makes a world of difference.

Bonnie's looks hand knitted and is worn past the crown of the head.

Dunaway's is a finer gauge knit and is worn to the hairline. Big difference. Notice, the deep V-neckline and the open weave detail all point to her GUN. She's definitely not that innocent anymore.

Here's a better detail of the sweater and scarf. I think this most of all, captures the allure of Theadora's work. It's easy, something we can do; a beret angled just-so, a printed silk scarf worn unexpectedly, and a fitted short-sleeved sweater. But it looks so cool. Image mptv.com

Again, beret + deep V-neck (this time with a great print) = cool.

And wasn't Faye Dunway just gorgeous at this age? Image mptv.com.

Bonnie visits her mother for the very last time. Penn shot this with a filter and instantly gives it a worn photograph look, like whatever happiness she's feeling now, is already a memory in a photo, never to be experienced again.

And Warren’s pretty cute too, but Theadora’s clothes are what endure in my mind.

Related articles

  • Theadora Van Runkle, Costume Designer, Dies at 83 (nytimes.com)

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Marisa Berenson: A Life in Pictures

08 Tuesday Nov 2011

Posted by Angie in 1960's, 1970's, Books

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Arnaud de Rosnay, Elsa Schiaparelli, Jason Duzansky, Linda Bey, Marisa Berenson, Steven Meisel, Vogue

She has led a charmed life and has the pictures to prove it.  The daughter of an American diplomat and Italian Countess, granddaughter of designer Elsa Schiaparelli, Marisa Berenson was jet-setting glamour girl of the 70’s.  She was a top model in the 60’s, and parlayed that popularity to launch an acting career with serious directors: Luchino Visconti’s “Death in Venice,” Bob Fosse’s “Cabaret,” and Stanley Kubrick’s “Barry Lyndon.”

That ain’t no spray tan. Aaah, to be a rich hippie in the 60’s. Marisa Berenson. Photo by Arnaud de Rosnay, Vogue, January 1968.

Marisa Berenson: A Life in Pictures, written by Marisa Berenson, Edited by Steven Meisel and Jason Duzansky, Contribution by Lina Bey.  Published by Rizzoli.

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Saul Bass: A Life in Film & Design

07 Monday Nov 2011

Posted by Angie in Books

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Film & Design, Jennifer Bass, Pat Kirkham, Saul Bass

Saul Bass: A Life in Film & Design, by Jennifer Bass (his daughter) and Pat Kirkham (design historian) looks like a must buy.  Chock full-o-images, over 1,400, it should give you some brain marinade.  A mix of Picasso meets 60’s mod, I LOVE IT!  His style is so distinctive you can literally spot it a mile away. Only he could make title sequences compete with being the coolest part of the movie.

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Il Teatro Alla Moda, Theater in Fashion

07 Monday Nov 2011

Posted by Angie in stuff to see

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Missoni, Romeo Gigli, Valentino, Versace, Wallis Annenberg

Later that Saturday I went to see this exhibit in the temporary Wallis Annenberg space Beverly Hills. On display were some opera, theater, and ballet costumes designed by the top designers: Lagerfeld, Valentino, Missioni, etc.

Program for "Lucia de Lammermoor," costumes by Marras Missoni.

Missoni knit kilt, cloak, sweater, and vest. Such great patterns and texture, of course.

Romeo Gigli costume for "Die Zauberflote." Red, blue and green rooster feathers.

Gigli dress for "Die Zauberflote."

Valentino from "Dream of Valentino."

Versace ballet costume. How adorable! Beaded linen.

The back is cute too.

Another beaded linen Versace ballet costume.

I was about to shoot some more but then noticed the  “No Photography” sign.  Yes, I chickened out and put my iphone away.  I paid $10, I didn’t want to get thrown out.

This is the last week, so check it out if you can.

http://www.annenbergbh.com/

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FIDM: FABULOUS! Ten Years Of FIDM Museum Acquisitions, 2000–2010

06 Sunday Nov 2011

Posted by Angie in stuff to see

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Alexander McQueen, Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, FIDM

I went to see the exhibit on Saturday.  Didn’t realize all the banking protests were going on just a few blocks away, which made for more traffic than you’d expect on an early Saturday, but I digress…

I made it just in time for the guided tour, which really added to the experience because you learned the context of how some of the truly exquisite pieces were acquired by the museum.  It’s wonderful that such a resource is available on the grounds of the FIDM campus.  The students can just mosey on down and be inspired on their lunch breaks.

No photos allowed.  😦  but please check it out when you’re in LA.  Oh, and it’s frickin’ free.  I did shell out $92 for the complete collection catalog.

Detail of a KILLER Alexander McQueen "Peacock" dress.

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FAVES, no particular order

Directed by James Ivory, Costume Design Jenny Beavan, 1985

Directed by Jack Clayton, Costume Design Theoni V. Aldredge, 1974

Directed by Sally Potter, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1992

Direct by Arthur Penn, Costume Design Theadora Van Runkle, 1967

Directed by Iain Softley, Costume Design Sandy Powell, 1997

Directed by Wong Kar Wai, Costume Design William Chang, 2000

Directed by Paul Thomas Anderson, Costume Design Mark Bridges, 2007

Directed by Cary Joji Fukanaga, Costume Design Michael O'Connor 2011

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