Terracotta Warriors, Miao People at the Bowers Museum

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Last weekend to catch the terracotta warriors at this little museum in Santa Ana.  I went yesterday and was a wee bit disappointed.  There were only three dudes there.  They had wall-size photos to give you the full effect of the masses of them in the tomb, but yes, only three dudes hanging out.  No flash photography, so I used my iphone.

Lovely day in Santa Ana.

This looked like it was to scale, actual size. Hard to tell though, it was on a raised platform.

Polo player on plaster.

His opponent. The text said polo was a favorite sport and men and women played during the Tang dynasty. It probably came from Persia along the trade routes. I love the simplicity in the strokes still able to give you a vivid picture.

Golden dragon.

Gold filigree tree. I'm so sad that the light is blown out. This little tree is quite beautiful, delicate, someone should make a necklace charm with a shrunken version of it.

Gold ornaments. Such an unusual shape.

Headdress. OMG it was so crowded around this one and I didn't want to wait to read the placard, so not sure why all the pieces are loose.

This is a small bull with a picture behind him of the enormity of the tomb. And those are just bulls. There were goats, sows, sheep, and horses.

I exited the exhibit and it flowed into an exhibit of the Miao people of China.  This, to me, was actually more exciting.

The girls start weaving and embroidering at six (!). That's why when they're ready to marry their clothes are so exquisite. The clothes tell you what their social rank is, shows her talents, and creativity.

All silver. They were doing the big big statement necklace for forevah.

Woman's traditional dress. The embroidery is amazing.

Wow. This is an apron! This is the sh*t, non?

Another traditional garment. Those aren't prints, those are embroidered and batik pleated skirt.

More women's jewelry.

Look at the deadly haircomb.

That pipe with the pendants is rad. I want it!

More women's jewelry.

Tradional costume and jewelry. These use a lot of indigo.

Hand-dyed batik! That takes some talent.

Here's a closer view of the sleeve.

And the back.

This jacket has metal decoration sewn into it.

Here's a closer shot. All the silver was sewn into a pattern.

Ceremonial women's costume.

A Miao woman with her jewelry.

The Miao exhibit was small but each piece was a “Wow.”  I was intrigued by their indigo wax-resist dying technique.  It could be the next thing for denim.  No one has done that yet, and that’s hard to say because denim has been done in just about every way, stone washed, acid washed, faded, waxed, baked, dyed, overdyed, etc.  If you could figure out a way to do it on denim, in intricate or simple patterns, it could be rad.  Tattooed denim anyone?

Pretty Much Everything

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Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin elevate fashion photography to art.  They work with what Inez calls, “… a duality.  There’s a gender shift, there’s beautiful and ugly.  There’s spiritual and mundane.  There’s tension.”  I love their work because they do the arty stuff but still make the clothes look good, and maybe that’s because Vinoodh was a designer first.

Their new book from Taschen, is $700 (!, well, it is Taschen), and three volumes.

Lady Gaga, V, issue 61.

Clint Eastwood, New York Times Magazine, 2005.

http://www.taschen.com/pages/en/catalogue/photography/all/06352/facts.inez_van_lamsweerde_vinoodh_matadin_pretty_much_everything.htm

 

Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2012

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If she were a contestant on “Project Runway,” she’d lose.  Too much black.  Too much leather.  One note, not enough variety.  What’s this girl going to wear to dinner?  Ann says, F**k you.  I love black, leather, and boots.  And that’s what this girl is going to wear anywhere.  If someone gives her crap- who are we kidding.  They wouldn’t dare.

Black on black, with more black, please. It's practical for winter, isn't it? Gloves and boots. Toasty. Not to mention, hot. You look like you mean business. Marcus Tondo/GoRunway.com.

Why don't women wear her on the red carpet? The dresses this year were such a bore. Marcus Tondo/GoRunway.com.

The sleeves, the extreme shortness, love it. Marcus Tondo/GoRunway.com.

I love that they put leather pants under it. Marcus Tondo/GoRunway.com.

She’s a badass.

Dries Van Noten Fall 2012

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The Dutch were among the first Europeans to start trading with the Japanese.  The exchange of influences flowed both ways.  The Japanese were exposed to technological advances and the Dutch admired Japanese art.  Van Gogh was heavily influenced by Japanese woodblock prints, ukiyo-e.  I always thought a collection combining the Dutch penchant for the avantgarde + japanese art (woodblocks, painting, textiles) would be soooo fantastic, and now it’s happened.

An avantgarde sack coat but with Oriental embroidery on one side. It could work with jeans or a shift with tights. Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com.

Such bright, vivid colors for fall. Great layering piece. Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com.

Who doesn't want this coat? Isn't it so much better than boring 'ol gray wool? Look at the small details. The solid inside lapel. The banding at the bottom. Look at the model walking away behind her. The back has a solid on one side, print on the other. It's really amazing. Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com.

Repeated prints but in an unexpected way. Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com.

I looooooove this top. It's like he's taken part of a Japanese painting and blown it up to the extreme until it's like abstract art. Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com.

I love that this has an Japanese feeling (kimono top) but also looks like it's borrowing from traditional Dutch peasant clothing (the banding suggests an apron). Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com.

He’s a master.  He always has great prints and different cuts for pants and jackets.  But never showy or overblown, always subtle, and always in the most sumptuous fabrics.  Great ideas for us to try in our (budget) wardrobes, bright prints, turtlenecks with tunics, wide leg pants, and sack coats.  Why wait for next winter.  Do it now!

Hollywood Rides a Bike: Cycling with the Stars

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Steven Rea combined his two loves, films (he’s a film critic in Philly) and bikes.  He complied little known pictures of celebs on bikes for Hollywood Rides a Bike, Angel City Press, and his Tumblr blog “Rides a Bike.”

Mmmm. Sean Connery.

The always gorgeous, doesn't matter what she's doing, Bardot.

A very young, fresh-faced Elizabeth Taylor.

Glenn Ford and Rita Hayworth.

Steven Rea, Angel City Press.

Don’t you love the sepia tones and how relaxed everyone looks on their bikes?

Marni for H&M

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Coming March 8th!  Finally some Marni I can afford.  I’ve been a fan of Consuelo Castiglioni’s mix of mod 60’s, bohemian, artsy-craftsy, and Italian countess forever.

Love her whimsical mix of prints.

The entire collection:

http://www.hm.com/us/subdepartment/LADIES?Nr=4294916014#page=1&Nr=4294916014

 

Oscars Red Carpet 2012

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It’s so funny living in LA.  We’d start watching the arrivals at 1:30 in the afternoon.  Work comes to standstill when it used to be held on a weekday.  It doesn’t even matter if your office has nothing to do with the movie business.  We are all happy voyeurs.

Just added the designers to my favorite looks.

Gorgeous Art Deco inspired gown. Giuliana Rancic in Tony Ward.

Milla just kills it. That's a model for you. Elie Saab Couture. Photo: Kevin Mazur/WireImage.

Jessica Chastain in Alexander McQueen. The hair and makeup are perfection. I wasn't sure about the black and gold, but the more I see it, especially watching it live, the more I love it. She's a pre-raphaelite goddess. GETTY IMAGES.

All I can say is, "Wow." Even if you're not a Jennifer Lopez fan, you have to admit she looks beyond gorgeous. Zuhair Murad gown.

Emma Stone in Giambattista Valli Couture. Beautiful color. I love the high neck with large bow. Very YSL. Jason Merritt/Getty Images.

Gary Oldman (my pick, I hope he wins!) and his stunning wife Alexandra in Roberto Cavalli. Who knew graphite could look so deadly gorgeous? And don't you love his polka dot pocket square in his Paul Smith tux? Jason Merritt/Getty Images.

Oscar weekend

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I am sick.  Literally, head cold, sore throat.  So, no last-minute going out and seeing everything frenzy.  Next weekend.

The Designers Guild awards were given out Tuesday night.  Trish Summerville won for excellence in a contemporary film, “The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.”  Arianne Phillips won for period drama, “W.E.,” and Jany Temime won for fantasy film, “Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows Pt. 2.”

It’s nice that they give awards to different genres since there is a different aesthetic in each.

Do you have your favorite this year? The nominees are:

Lisy Christl – Anonymous

Mark Bridges – The Artist

Sandy Powell – Hugo

Michael O’Connor – Jane Eyre

Arianne Phillips – W.E.

I hope Michael O’Connor wins for “Jane Eyre.”  But I’m thinking the Academy will go for either “Anonymous” Lisy Christl because it’s a very costume-y film, or “The Artist,” Mark Bridges, because it’s a huge favorite to win everything.

Michael O'Connor, "Jane Eyre."

Get your ballots ready.  Every time someone says Academy, take a drink.

Sinead O’Connor

Rolling Stone, Herb Ritts, 1991.

She just finished two shows at the El Rey.  She’s been making headlines lately, but not for her music.  That was always the problem/persona of hers.  The rebel without a cause, or too many causes.  The scorned woman, turned lesbian, turned fallen lesbian, turned priest, or whatever her official church title is, it always seemed to diminish/distract from the towering talent that she is.

A voice that could caress you one second, then punch your lights out the next, she was the high priestess of the airwaves in the 90’s.  She dedicated an a cappella version of “I am Stretched On Your Grave,” to Whitney Huston.  I’m sure it took everyone’s breath away.

Say what you want about Adele, I do LOVE her myself, but even she can’t muster as much fire, defiance, and utter vulnerability, in a wailing bellowing banshee delivery as Sinead can.  Listen to “Troy” from “The Lion and the Cobra,” and tell me if she doesn’t rule the school when it comes to women scorned.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oc-hXfMvQOU&feature=fvsr

Which is interesting considering her look was militantly unfeminine, un-girly, un-victimy.  Leather jackets, jeans, tees, and combat boots.

Rolling Stone, Herb Ritts, 1990.

That was also, coincidentally, my uniform in the 90’s, with a smattering of booty shorts for clubbing (I was in my 20’s, ok!  That’s what we did.)

She’s older, a little chubbier, but the bitch can still blast it out of the park.

Chungking Express

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No, I’m not talking about Jeremy Lin.  But since we’re on the topic, what was ESPN thinking??? Chink the armor?  (referring to his inability to go left and allowing too many turnovers)  Hello?  You guys are the kings of bad puns, don’t you realize chink has another meaning?  And you’re referencing an Asian dude.  Hello?  McFly!  When I first heard it on Wednesday, I’ll admit that my sphincter puckered up a little.  But then I talked myself down, I’m being too sensitive, but then the whole world got offended for me.  Thanks world!

OK, onto Won Kar Wai’s, 1994, influential film.  Set in Hong Kong in the mid 90’s.  Frenetic, post-modern, noir meets French New Wave, with a dash of romantic comedy.  His visual style is called impressionistic by many.  I tend to agree with that.  It’s mostly shot hand-held which makes for a blur of colors and lights, a painterly effect, which gives you more mood than standard storytelling.  It was also shot quickly during the editing of Won Kari Wai’s epic “Ashes of Time.”  It was like a pick-up basketball game for the cast and crew, a chance to cut loose and clear his mind because finishing “Ashes…”  proved difficult.

Brigitte Lin is a bad ass drug smuggler.  Takeshi Kaneshiro is her love-struck, policeman admirer.  Tony Leung is another policeman who admires the gamine Faye Wong’s food stand attendant.  The days before mass cell phone proliferation.  They’re using pagers, remember those?

This is the ordinary Joes world of convenience stores, florescent lights, neon, nightclubs, food stands.  The hurried nature of the camera work underlines the fleeting nature of the relationships.

I’m really not posting this as an inspiration for looks or clothes, more about creating an atmosphere, be it for a photo shoot or whatever.

Takeshi running after a perp.

Brigitte Lin lights up after her drug mules give her the slip.

Takeshi, with no game, trying to get something going with Brigitte. I think Won Kar Wai is having fun with Femme Fatale imagery here. The blonde wig, might be a reference to Hitchcock blondes, the vintage-y sunglasses, cigarette, and trench coat.

She ends up in his room, but it's perfectly chaste. I do like this shot of her shoes, with him leaving in the background. It could be a Manolo ad.

Tony gives a new meaning to layover to this stewardess.

I wonder how many tests they had to do to get this effect with the candlelight.

After the stewardess breaks it off, he's a little sad and hugs it out with his stuffed animals. I love the pink lighted fish tank. What could it mean? More fish in the sea? Christopher Doyle probably just liked it pink, nothing Freudian or figurative.

Faye starts sneaking into his flat to... clean. Weird but thoughtful?

They walk through the marketplace. Lovely colors and framing.

Faye stands him up on their would-be first date. The light is fantastic here.

This echoes back to Brigitte Lin's character with the sunglasses, and Faye's hair is much longer now like Brigitte's. She's becoming a worldly woman.

I feel that Danny Boyle must’ve been inspired by this, even just a little, for “Slumdog Millionaire.”  If not, it inspired legions of directors and DPs.

The director of photography, Christopher Doyle, continued working with Won Kar Wai, finally finishing “Ashes of Time,” then “Fallen Angels,” “Happy Together,” “In the Mood for Love,” and its quasi sequel “2046.” He then started working in the U.S. a lot.  The first high profile project was with Gus Van Sant on the “Psycho” remake.  He also worked with James Ivory on “The White Countess.”  I’m just noting those two for stylistic range.  He made his mark working for an auteur, but he is able to do restrained literary dramas as well.  He’s self-taught, blue collar, Aussie who’s lived in Asia longer than his native Australia.

Here’s a quote of his that sums up his style:

“What I’m trying to do is make the camera-work lyrical rather than fragmentary. It’s a dance between the camera and the actors.”